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Lead 1010 Waste Board

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by gregers05, Mar 28, 2019.

  1. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    Looking at waste board ideas while I am waiting on the remaining parts of my Lead to come in, what is everyone doing for waste boards? I am currently on copying the layout that the X Carve has, but curious what everyone else has been doing.

    How are you cutting hole patterns in on the sides and ends that are outside of the work space? Also, how are you surfacing it flat and not having a lip on the edges of the usable work space area?
     
  2. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I use particle board because it is cheaper than MDF. I purposely leave a lip on the sides so I can easily square up work stock. I use a 1 inch whiteside surfacing bit which reaches the front of my cutting area. Also, I have two spoilboard layers. The bottom layer is the full size of the machine, the top layer with t-track is 48 inches long so it is a couple inches short of my total cutting length. But, I have yet to cut anything larger than 24 by 48 inches. I wanted to be able to feed material though the bed for cuts longer than the work area which is why I removed lips on the two ends.
     
  3. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Also, I gave up on threaded inserts because no matter what, I never had one where I needed it. Also, in the particle board they would often pull loose. Maybe MDF is better.
     
  4. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Openbuilds Team
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    Mdf is a bit better than particle board at holding threaded inserts, but gets progressively weaker every time you re-surface it. I use threaded inserts known as E-nuts. They have no lip so can be driven below the surface from above. If I haven't got one where I need it I just have to drill a new hole (being careful to avoid spoiler board supports).
    Alex.
     
  5. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Openbuilds Team
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    Also, my first job after re-surfacing is to use a fine V (10 degree) engraving bit to scribe a 100 mm grid on my spoiler board.
    Alex.
     
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  6. Dmhaes

    Dmhaes Journeyman
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    I use a piece of plain old 1/2” mdf, and super glue and painters tape to hold material in place. They get wrecked and resurfaced frequently enough that going crazy with inserts and t track is pointless to me.
     
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  7. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    This
    This is also my plan. I think the grid would be pretty helpful when lining up a workpiece.
     
  8. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    so sticky side of painters tape on the waste board and superglue between that and the work piece?
     
  9. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    Also, what do you guys do about the space on the waste board that is outside of the workspace?
     
  10. sharmstr

    sharmstr Master
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    Painters tape on the board and the stock. Superglue in between.

    Google it and you'll find plenty of videos on the technique. Its the fidget spinner of workholding. :)
     
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  11. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    I use the super glue tape technique as well when my work piece is near the size of the finished product. It is awesome. But, if you need to clamp a vise down or some other holding fixture the t-track is nice. Also when cutting a small part from a 12" by 24" stock material clamps will save you a lot of tape and super glue. Options are nice to have.

    I can probably resurface my spoilboard 10 times before I hit the t-track.
     
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  12. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    duh, that would make more sense than putting glue on the backside of your work piece
     
  13. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    It is a great method for smaller parts because you do not need holding tabs. I like to use the Hobby King CA glue and activator because it is cheap. It also helps that I can pick it up for free at their USA warehouse which is only a few miles from me.
     
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  14. Colin Mccourt

    Colin Mccourt Master
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    I made a set of P clamps that screw down into the D Nuts in my MDF Spoiler-board.
    & I also use double sided tape on occasion.

    P Clamps 1.jpg
     
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  15. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    nice, I am planning to make a few of these.
     
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  16. Colin Mccourt

    Colin Mccourt Master
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    If So.
    Grab the zip file HERE

    PS Obviously the upright bolts don't have to be that long, (as in my photo). They were all I had to hand.
    Regards
    C
     
    #16 Colin Mccourt, Apr 3, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
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  17. gregers05

    gregers05 Journeyman
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    Sweet thanks!
     
  18. gdon_2003

    gdon_2003 New
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    There is a good video on youtube by myers woodworking. He is making the board for a Shapeoko but has the spoil board layout, clamps, fences and everything you need to make a good spoil board. I have made some with T-slots and they are a disaster. You can make them work but MDF is not very strong and clamping always distorts them. I have made a combination with T-slits and Tee Nuts and that works but the T-slots are still a problem. I have had most success with all 1/4'-20 Tee nuts that are 5/16" tall. This way the Tee-Nuts are under the spoilboard and cannot pull out they are far enough down that you can resurface many times on 3/4" MDF. The threaded inserts that is used on X-Carve seem impractical because MDF will not hold them.
    Check the myers videos, files and etc on youtube.
    I have two CNC routers and one uses a 2.25HP 1/2" collet bit router so I use an Infinity Mega Planner 2" bit to surface. On my smaller 1.25HP router it only has a 1/4" collet and I use a Whiteside 6210 1" cutter to flatten.
     
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  19. ljvb

    ljvb Journeyman
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    This is the Internet @gdon_2003 Your post is useless without pictures :) Also a link. I have thrown togethor a couple of Fusion360 models of spoilboards in the lead 1010 build thread... I have no actually milled it yet though..
     
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  20. sharmstr

    sharmstr Master
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    This is the internet @ljvb . You can find the videos faster than it took you to write that. :)

    I happened to watch a few of them the other day. They are here: Myers Woodshop
     
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