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Lautr3k

Discussion in '3D printers' started by skarab, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. skarab

    skarab Journeyman
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  2. Johnr24

    Johnr24 New
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    What driver board have you got? - and what main board are you using with those drivers
    are you getting any resonance?
    and which if any Heated Bed?
     
  3. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    I am using the following.
    -Arduino Mega 2560
    -Ramps 1.4
    -Pololu a4988 drivers ( looking to upgrade to drv8825 as the a4988 are running really hot even when tuned )
    -Z axis motors are 64oz 17HS16-2004S
    -X / Y axis motors are 76oz KL17H248-15-4A

    I have a 12x12 pcb heat bed but it is not in use as of yet, The above prints were done real quick on a piece of glass and warped plywood. I should be getting the heat bed mount sometime soon and will update when it is mounted.

    I am not really getting any resonance ( tho I am currently running it slow at only 60mm/s) It runs with less operational noise during a print then my I3V. I am sure when I get around to installing the feet to get it off the table it will quit down even more.
     
  4. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Got a E-mail request for this, Here is the Y-axis belt mod.. Sketchup file and STL's posted below. Designed to use I3 belt clamp from daGHIZmo on Thingiverse.
    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    #454 Kyo, Sep 23, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2015
  5. Gumpwa Luong

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    @Kyo Thats an awesome mod! Any chance of getting one for the X axis too? I wanted to do it but my CAD skills are quite lacking...
     
  6. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks. Sure, It might be a little while due to other projects but i will see what i can come up with.
     
  7. Gumpwa Luong

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    Great, looking forward to it! Thanks!
     
  8. Vxxs

    Vxxs New
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    I cant find B slot rails, can I use T slot for replacement? The V slot I will get from open builds...
     
  9. Vxxs

    Vxxs New
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  10. Gumpwa Luong

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    @Vxxs

    Thats what I did for mine. Just make sure you can find the matching tee-nuts for the t-slots.
     
  11. Gumpwa Luong

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    I bought mine from robotdigg.com
     
  12. Vxxs

    Vxxs New
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    Oh ty ty, what about the threaded rod? What size and thread is it? This will be my first diy build.... ty for the help
     
  13. Gumpwa Luong

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    I'd recommend reading through all the pages of this thread. But for the stuff I picked, take a look at posting Lautr3k | Page 11 | OpenBuilds onward. It includes the screws I bought and the stl files I modified for the different parts. They are 8mm screws, not 10mm but they seem to be working okay for me. If I can to pick again, I might I would have went with larger motors for the screws.
     
  14. Gumpwa Luong

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    No new builders? Thats a shame :(
     
  15. Ovidiu Sopa

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    Hello guys,

    long story short: I decided to make a 3D printer with a Laser diode also for engraving and cutting soft materials, I like this design and also seen the specs are quite nice: 100mm/s printing - 150mm/s travel speed . Can you guys tell me if I can achieve this speed with a RAMPS 1.4 kit or only with the 5XC Smoothieboard.

    The speed is one thing i keeped ignoring 3D printers as I heard things like 10 hours for a part wich for me sound very very much. for example I asked a guy who has a 3D printer locally how much will cost to print me all the parts I need for this design, and he gived me very detailed xls file with each part, the total time needed for printing all parts was from 74 hours (50% infill) to 104 hours (90% infill) !!!! this is too much for me :) I asked him about what feeds he uses and he sent me a printscreen of the Cura software, and the speeds ware from 20mm/s to 35mm/s and 70mm for travel. Seeing this I knew with Lautrek printer I can do parts much faster than that .. but I need to know what I need to print at that speed as I really want to print that fast.

    Thank you in advance!
     
  16. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    While lead screws offer a lot of benefits, if it is pure speed you are after. I think something like the Core xy C-bot might be better suited. I print way faster then 20mm/s on my Fina build ( a lautr3k ) I limit it to around 60-80mm/s for most things and even have a few videos on my youtube channel showing the printer moving around easily at 100mm/s.. But I did not build it for all out speed.

    If your local deal does not pan out I have a printed parts set in blue ready to go. This printed set uses the same Misumi 12mm dia. 6 start 18mm lead 3mm pitch screws and nuts I used on my build. Just send me a private msg.

    Nice to see another interested in a Lautr3k build! I am very happy with mine.. What happened to the rest of the builders? I know there were more builds going on then who have posted.
     

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  17. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Great work as always but the motor end does not have enough room for the motor body. All the holes line up but the area fro the motor body as not wide enough. I tried scaling, but then all of the holes were off.
     
  18. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks for the feedback, Here is a new motor mount that has been widened 5mm and the motor centered. ( so 2.5mm extra clearance on each side. ) Let me know if it needs any extra. The short leg 20x40 on the Y-axis will need to be cut down another 5mm to account for the wider mount.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Thanks, printing now,
     
    Kyo likes this.
  20. Ovidiu Sopa

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    I already have a large CNC, and when I need to mill aluminium with very fine details, with a 0.8mm endmill I have to set the feed very very low .. I hate how long it takes, and this is what I try to avoid with this project, I want to have it print as fast as possible without spending way more for the speed increase. I think I will be happy with 100mm / s but I don't know for sure what hardware I need to achieve this speed and good results in the printed parts. I seen now the C-bot and noticed it's a combination of belt drive and leadscrew, I don't know why I like more the lead screws, maybe because the CNC is exactly the same. Is the belt system running faster ?

    1. Are the NEMA17 powerfull enough ?
    2. The A4988 drivers can run the NEMA 17 that fast ? (I don't mind adding another cooler over the drivers part)
    3. Can the RAMPS1.4 controller run that fast ? or
    4. I need to buy better boards like MightyBoard (Sailfish firmware specs 120mm/s) or Smothieboard ?
    What others suggestions do you guys have ?

    I was thinking maybe at the beggining to start with RAMPS and buy later a better controller
     
  21. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    For Cartesian style printers like this a Ramps board is fine. When you start to add in the extra math involved with a delta or core xy they really do benefit from a better controller. To directly answer some of your questions.

    1. Yes, I have had no problem running Nema 17's on any of my printers.
    2. I did end up upgrading from the a4988 drivers to DRV8825.
    3. It can, I am currently running ramps 1.4 with mega 2560 without problems.
    4. If I were to upgrade to a newer 32bit Smothie based controller, I would look at the Azteeg X5 Mini all in one controller. But there are many options out..

    Another great way to really speed up a print is to go with a larger nozzle. Such as the e3d volcano. With a larger hotend you can not get as fine as detail but you can cut your print times way down.
     
  22. Ovidiu Sopa

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  23. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Anyone have a Wades_L3K geared extruder for a 1.75mm E3d V6, that will bolt to the X-carriage front plate? All I can find have the 4 holes on the corners, not the diagonal holes on the Lautr3k front plate. I would like to use my Volcano on this build.
     
  24. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Looking for the .stl not the actual part.
     
  25. Ovidiu Sopa

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    I'm having some troubles getting the parts from misumi, and I was thinking to get the lead screws from ebay (China/HongKong) , but I can't find a leadscrew with such a high lead, are there any other places to get that lead screw ?

    Also in the BOM file I downloaded the link to the other lead screw is not working anymore, can you tell me what type are the other lead screws ?

    Acme lead screw and nut http://store.makerstoolworks.com/motion/z-axis-lead-screw-an... .. this is the link that is not working anymore.

    Thank you.
     
  26. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Here is what I am using, I modified it to work for me. It is mounted with the two vertical mounting points on the Lautr3k front plate. It is originally based on the l3K.. Has been working great for me. I am running a E3D V6 1.75mm direct..
    e3dv6.png


    Robotdig offers a TR8x20. I believe it is a custom order ( they will cut it to size ) see back a few pages for the part number.. My blue printed parts set is not meant for the nut they provide, But if you wanted to go with black parts the new set could be printed to suit.

    You have a few options here. First you could run this screw for the Z-axis. I believe the nut OD and mounting dimensions are the same. ( I would need to double check )
    Single-Start Lead Screw and Nut, SINGLE

    Another option is to grab the screws from ebay Ebay TR10x2 and then grab the required single start 10mm nuts from Makerstoolworks Here.
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    You are the best as usual!
     
  28. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    I am upgrading my Lautr3k build, as such have some unused parts.. :thumbsup: Anyone interested in a Lautr3k starter kit? You would receive the following.

    -Lautr3k / Fina Printed Parts Kit as pictured in blue ( You can also print your own )
    -X-axis Misumi Lead screw 12mm dia. 6 starts 18mm lead 3mm pitch
    -X-axis Misumi lead screw nut
    -X-axis 8x16x5 bearing set
    -X-axis bearing shims
    -Y-axis Misumi Lead screw 12mm dia. 6 starts 18mm lead 3mm pitch
    -Y-axis Misumi lead screw nut
    -Y-axis 8x16x5 bearing set
    -Y-axis bearing shims

    The Z-axis lead screws are common mendelmax 10mm variety. However, I could also include the Z-axis lead screw set if you need them and would included all of the above in addition to the following components.
    -Z-axis left Lead screw 10mm dia. 2mm pitch
    -Z-axis left lead screw nut
    -Z-axis right Lead screw 10mm dia. 2mm pitch
    -Z-axis right lead screw nut

    This would give you a complete starter kit with all the motion components in one go, so you would not have to track down any lead screws or lead screw components. All lead screws are professionally machined to spec for a lautr3k build saving you the cost of getting them machined as well.

    Here are some photos for your review.

    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg printed parts set.jpg

    Just shoot me a PM and we can work out the details if your interested.

    EDIT: Added better / current photos of the lead screw set's. Updated the post with a better list of items. My ball screws have been ordered. This would be a great start for your own lautr3k build!
     
    #478 Kyo, Mar 28, 2016
    Last edited: May 22, 2016
    Anthony Bolgar likes this.
  29. Lluis

    Lluis New
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    Hi everyone! I'm sorry for my English ... I've got two leadscrews 10mm OD , 2.5 pitch, and 10 starts PBC linear. Price is incredible!! They come with anti - backlash nut . I already have them at home and are great !! I hope they can serve someone like me who had long been looking for !!! Greetings to all !! Go lautr3k !!

    Leadscrew 10 start, 10 O.D. 2.5 pitch 20" length with anit-backlash nut
     

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  30. Lluis

    Lluis New
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    I think $ 130 for two leadscrews + nuts + US shipments to Spain with the same specifications as the screws of Trinitylabs not bad . In the Bom says that cost $ 100 each one. If you find something better than that price I 'd love you to put it over here .
     

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