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Lautr3k

Discussion in '3D printers' started by skarab, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. Nick Roth

    Nick Roth New
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    On the leadscrew front, the Alibaba vendors I've received contact back from are fairly difficult to get a correct quote from. In the past, I've run into this issue when I wasn't in contact with the original supplier. Many times there are tons of resellers that are sourcing from one or two major suppliers. After purchasing a cheaper printer that I'm fixing up and will use to build this printer, I do think I'd prefer to stick with a larger diameter leadscrew than the 8mm one. It is possible 8mm might not have an issue, but to me it seems a bit more flexy than I'd prefer.

    Besides sourcing the original parts directly from thompson, I'm still leaning towards Roton for a US supplier. The price is fairly good, leaving some buffer to get it machined. Again, here is the 7/16" x 1.0" 8 start leadscrew from roton, which has an anti backlash nut on the same page. The total cost is around $140, but this is before machining. If you have access to a lathe, then this is a pretty good option.

    Another thing I was considering was, has anyone thought about increasing the height of the base, so that you can fit the power supply and controller board underneath it? I was thinking that you could use the 60mm or 80mm v-slot rail in place of the 40mm to create some more room. It seems that a regular ATX power supply is right over 80mm in height, so that wouldn't work, but there are definitely other options that should.
     
  2. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    Why does everyone want the end to be machined? Wouldn't it be simpler/cheaper to have a motor coupler/bearing who will fit on the unmachined rod?
     
  3. Nick Roth

    Nick Roth New
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    Yeah, I guess that is an option. How would that work for the bearing side? I've seen it with the motor side mounted directly, as with the robotdigg product, but wasn't sure on the bearing side.Would you use something like a flanged bearing sized to match the od of the leadscrew?

    Right after the last post I finally did hear back directly from thompson, so I'll see what they say. I imagine it is request a quote from your local distributor, which isn't an ideal setup.
     
  4. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    the bearing ID will have to fit the OD of the rod, that's all
     
  5. Nick Roth

    Nick Roth New
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    Then for the motor side, for the larger diameter leadscrew, it would be too large to be directly mounted via the external style. So, it would have to be a regular captive stepper motor. For that, you'd have to adapt between the ~5mm stepper shaft and ~12mm leadscrew. I assume something like this coupler would work?
     
  6. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    Exactly that yes and you won't have to pay for machining
     
  7. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    For the Bearing end check out the MR6701-ZZ. The printed part will have to be updated to fit it ( 18mm OD vs 14mm ) but that is a whole lot easier then getting the machining done on the screw. Anyone know were one would find 12mm ID precision shims?
     
  8. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    maybe just a washer?
     
  9. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Coupler 5mmx12mm --- BR 5mmx12mm D25L30
    amazon
    Bearing 12x18x4mm -- - MR6701-ZZ
    amazon
    Precision Shim 18x12x1mm --- SER903290
    amazon

    Then you just need to get a 12mm lead screw of your choice cut to 373mm long no machining needed.
     
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Updated printed parts for X and Y axis to fit 18mm OD bearings as well as Misumi 12mm lead screw nuts. Simply change the nut bolt pattern to fit your chosen lead screw nut.
     
    #400 Kyo, Apr 1, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  11. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Printed Parts Done. :) Man my camera makes everything look way shiny.



    Just waiting on my packages of parts to start arriving now. Will be posting a build log once everything arrives. Thinking of calling my build "Fina" lol
     
    skarab likes this.
  12. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Wow, those printed parts look just excellent :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  13. Alex272

    Alex272 New
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    @Kyo
    Your parts looking very well. At what resolution have you printed them?
     
  14. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks guys.. The parts were printed at a layer height of 0.2mm, First layer height of 0.35mm, 3 perimeter layers and 3 layers top and bottom.. All have a 40% hexagon infill. Takes a bit of trial an error to get things just right. But I selected the best prints for the build.

    Started to get some parts in today. :)
    -X2 10mmX2mm Pitch Z-axis lead screws with nuts
    -E3D V6 Direct
    -Full Graphic LCD with SD card reader
    -300X300mm Heat Bed
    -Heat bed replay
    -40mm Nema 17's for Z-axis
    -48mm Nema 17's for X/Y-axis and extruder
    -Arduino Mega 2560
    -Ramps 1.4
    -x4 Stepper drivers
    -x3 end stops
    -capacitive proximity sensor ( will detect glass / pcb bed )
    -Hobbed bolt and extruder hardware

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Be REALLY careful when screwing the rear corners on. Mine are 50% infill and I cracked one. Also, I switched over to the cast 90's for the 20x20 top rail, as I had them crack also. My stuff is ABS and none of the parts on any othe printer had problems, just those.
    Really looking forwar to seeing how the prox sensors work for you. I am really not liking my bed on springs that I use on my MendelMax. Wanting to plant them solidly on the support plate and then auti-cal before each print, instead of wasting filament and time.
     
  16. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks for the heads up, I may have to rob my Adamantine build parts bin. I have some metal 90's laying around for it.

    I am a bit nervous about getting the software set up for this build particularly the sensor ( I can tinker on things all day long, but struggle with code. ) But I look forward to getting it to work. I learn best just diving in. Right now I waste a lot of time leveling the bed on my prusa before every print or stopping a print half way due to me forgetting to level the bed properly.

    I also have a printed parts set from abs with 50% infill but I ran out of orange abs lol. So I set them aside in tell I order some more :) ...
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    I level my bed and double check my z-axis end stop between prints as I notice I get more constant results with my prints that way. It usually only needs a small tweak in one or two corners. ( spring loaded heat bed on all 4 corners )..
     
  18. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Power supply question for you guys. I still need to order one. Given the size of the heat bed I already picked up a relay for it.

    Would I be fine running all the electronics and heat bed with my standard go to power supply. Your basic 12V 30A Switching Power Supply?
    Or would I be better served by this 40amp Genssi unit Here. The provider of the heat bed says it can draw around 20+ amps at start up..
     
  19. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Depends on your goals, budget, tools available to you. The robotdig nema screw combo has been built and files needed are in this thread. It is a proven option!

    If you don't mind spending $3-700 on just screws ($ depending if you machine your own ). You can get the same spec screws TL provided from one of the other manufactures..

    If you don't mind mix and matching metric and imperial units on your build there are a lot of fairly priced options from Roton ect. .

    I compromised with my build to get the best of both worlds. Price / Availability / Speed / Precision / Repeatability. I ordered 12mm Multi start screws with nuts just like the original TL units but with a very slight change in specs. I also redesigned my printed parts to fit the new screws / nuts / larger bearings. As well as had the screw machined to completely new dimensions then what the TL screws were machined to. This allows a cheaper, better spec, off the shelf lead screw for my build.

    Will it work and all go together like I hope? I will find out this afternoon when my lead screws arrive. :)
     
  20. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    My roommate likes the prox sensor real well. I just don't know if I could make it work on my Mendal Max.
     
  21. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Let me know which one he is using, as I have some X-carriage files that have sensor mounts on them. I can print one before I ship to you.
     
  22. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    The inductive sensor my roommate has is a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. I found out this morning he has a spare sensor.
     
  23. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    So it has the 8mm body?
     
  24. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    The threaded area is about 19 mm diameter, with a 8 mm sensor range. The label has a place that has NPN 8 mm
     
  25. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Same sensor I am using in photos above, Fits perfect in a 18mm Dia. hole. I believe I printed mine with a little clearance.
     
  26. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    OK. See what I have
     
  27. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    It works very well on my roommates printer. He is using aluminum foil under the glass so it will have something to sense. On the system I am building, the foil would help spread the heat from the bed to the glass.
     
  28. dddman

    dddman Journeyman
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    Aluminum tape could do it too I suppose
     
  29. Johnr24

    Johnr24 New
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    I have some spare OB leadscrews not really looking into spending more money on other
    would anyone be interested lending a hand in getting the X-AXIS parts modified for these lead screws.
     
  30. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    So you have 8mm screws? I thought someone posted an X-axis file set that used 608's or some other 8mm bearings in the new files to make using stock screws work. I have my 8mm screws turned down on the ends to 5mm so I could use the stock plastic.
     

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