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Ideas for spoil board and clamps?

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by StrictlyScale, Jun 6, 2020.

  1. StrictlyScale

    StrictlyScale Well-Known
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    Anyone have a good source for clamps and associated spoiler board ideas/plans to utilize such clamps? Just ordered my Lead CNC 1010 kit and want to start collecting some items/supplies to utilize it. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Best way :

     
    Bad Builder likes this.
  3. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I like the CA and tape method. I use it mostly for plastics. That way I do not need to use tabs. However, if cutting aluminum I will use these corner clamps C-Beam Machine Hold Down Clamps to do the hole drilling tool path then screw the material down through the holes to finish cutting out the piece. The nice thing about them is that when you accidentally hit one while cutting, the endmill goes right through the plastic.

    I am also a fan of t-track. I started with threaded inserts, but there never seemed to be one where I needed it.
    [​IMG]

    For other hold downs, I have a variety I 3D printed that I use with the t-track. and I made some 3/4 inch thick wooden ones similar to this out of oak with my cnc.
     
    #3 Giarc, Jun 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2020
  4. StrictlyScale

    StrictlyScale Well-Known
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    Excellent ideas, thanks! i've ordered the supplies for the t-track spoil board and should arrive later this week. my 1010 should be here today...its like christmas!!
     
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  5. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    spoilboard yes, clamps no, dont bother.

    The spoilboard is by definition spoilable, it is inherently a replaceable part of the tool. With this in mind, when you need some holes in it to hold a special part, just drill the holes, do the job and move on. When the surface becomes a bit rough, run a surfacing cut, when it gets too thin, fit a new one.

    that said, the MDF we get here has a fine grained hard surface but the inside is much softer so I try not to cut into it.
    instead I T&G a sheet of insulation foam down (from 6 to 15mm thick), surface that, then T&G the part onto that. This has never failed and no matter what the material is I know that cutting into the underlying foam is a non-event so precise Z depth is not required.

    T&G is 'tape and glue'

    I spent a lot of time drilling and fitting captive nuts and have used them twice in 2 years. that is why I say don't bother. just keep stock of masking tape (1" and 2") and CA glue.
     
    ssmall, JustinTime and Rick 2.0 like this.

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