All, I've been running quite a few tests on my LEAD 1515 and have tried different feeds and speeds with the 2 flute bits I have. I've been working on cutting a large piece out of plywood. The top of the piece is covered with OraMask over black paint. I'm using the Makita rt0701c. Interestingly enough, the collet seems to get pretty hot when I run the router even without a bit. Sometimes when I cut, the collet and shaft of the bit gets hot, but the cutting area where the wood is touching the bit does not usually. I'm using all of the calculations available... the point is that I am wondering if I should reduce my flute count to be able to hit the speeds I need so I don't dull my tool or stress the machine. Various test run results are as follows: 1/2 inch PLYWOOD 1/4 inch single flute o-flute bit (because based on calculations, I cannot run a 2 flute 1/4 bit due to speed limits in IPM) .125 depth per pass 40% stepover 12,000 RPM's 110 IPM (machine ended up skipping a step and milled a line right through the center of one of my letters) Plunge rate: 40 ipm Cutter in contact with wood: warm Bit shaft: hot Collet: scalding Large chips 1/8 2 flute downcut bit .08 depth per pass RPM 12,500 RPM 100 IPM 40% stepover 40 IPM plunge Cutter in contact with wood: warm Bit shaft: hot Collet: Scalding Medium chips 1/2 inch 2 flute 60 degree V BIT (for vcarving detail pass after using one of the above) .125 Depth per pass (on edges, not using it for full cut) 100 IPM 12,000 RPM 40% stepover 40 IPM plunge Cutter in contact with wood: warm to hot Bit shaft: hot Collet: Scalding Small chips The wood NEVER burns FYI and the tool is never discolored. I've read that if you can't hold it in your hand, it's too hot. Is that true? Is the collet heat a function of what's happening when my tool is cutting through the wood? Is the plywood glue, oramask, or paint heating the bit up? Any help is good help. Thanks.
I've never found feed and speed charts useful for hobby type machines, just not stiff enough. I tend to adjust RPM to reduce /stop chatter. Carbide can take much more heat than your hand can with no ill effects. Motor (electrical) and bearings in the Makita will make the shaft hot all on its own. Been working for me at least. I'm not doing production of any kind so I don't worry much about getting the most performance, I need clean and reliable. Cheers Gary
"Interestingly enough, the collet seems to get pretty hot when I run the router even without a bit" If that's the case, then the router needs attention before anything else. Sounds like maybe a dodgy bearing but certainly need investigating?, Also, the router should have a healthy airflow down through the casing. You should be able to run even a 3 hour job for example and still be able to change the bit without burning your fingers - should be barely warm.
Thanks all. You know I actually went and got another makita at Home Depot to test it. Also I wanted to have a backup. Same issue. I’ve read some have had the same issue. Even cleaned out the collet multiple times. Maybe I’ll write to makita about it. Thanks both for the guidance on this. I’ve been messing around since then and seem to have pretty much the same situation. Warm-ish blades, piping hot collet.
