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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Elmo Clarity, Apr 14, 2017.
A TrueUp Glide modified to use 20x40 V-Slot with a 300x300 bed.
Amazon.com: RMP .125 3003 H14 Aluminum Sheet 12" x 12": Industrial & Scientific
Well, my CoreXY printer went from this...
That was my first attempt at building a printer. Learned a lot from doing it. Mostly curse words.
New modified parts added (red parts). Because I will be drilling my own build plate instead of using the OpenBuilds one, I can guarantee the positions of the Y rails so I can use the Y Motor Mount provided by David Bunch. I did make a minor change to it by filleting the edges rather than chamfering them. Just a personal preference is all.
The feet are press-fit and there is a hole for an adjustable foot to be used. While the frame may be perfectly square, my desktops aren't always perfectly flat. I haven't added the adjustable part yet.
Just uploaded the first set of files. These are the left and right feet, front foot, Y motor mount, and Y mount bracket. I have been putting together a mock up with the parts, but the V-Slots have not been cut to the proper length yet. As soon as the feet get done printing, I'll post a picture. The parts are in different color filament for testing. Just using up the end of some spools.
These are just test assemblies until I get the V-Slot cut to the right length. The blue corner brackets are just temporary until I have the final pieces I can drill the mounting holes in.
And the latest mockup with the Z motor mount
It's not that they are just a little too long. A couple are over 100mm too long.
Status Update. Got all the extrusion cut to the proper lengths and the basic frame assembled. Been spending most of the time modifying the parts for 20x40 and had to reprint some parts several times, at several hours each. Got the bed frame drilled out, after several oops (you can see them in the pictures). Because I am not planning on using the same PSU and controller as the original, the front part of my printer was too light, so I added a foot to the back part.
Got the Z axis setup and been playing around some with it. The first belt I got was too short due to bad math on my part. New belt should be here Monday. Instead of using a belt for the Y axis, I designed a belt clamp so I can just use a length of belt. I found the Y Center piece was too long for my printer, which seemed strange since my rails are 100mm longer. I had to chop 15mm off to get it to fit. Waiting for the print to finish to know if that measurement is right. The Y Idle was sitting too high and was hitting the bed, so had to drop it some. Will adjust out the belt height once that is all finalized.
Front of printer...
Been playing around with the glide part of the Z axis. I'm hoping it will be easier to move once the cross piece is added. Right now it is really difficult to move. Having to reprint the two parts with the modified version for 20x40.
In regards to the difficulty moving the Z axis, that could also be caused by the nylon nuts I am using. The ones I ordered won't be here for a couple more weeks so I printed some out of nylon.
You should be able to turn the Z screws with your fingers. Probably fix itself with real nylon nuts. If you have an M8 tap, you could just tap out the ones you have - I sometimes have to do that if I have to hammer the nuts into the cavity.
Suggestion: it looks like you have room left on your bed wheel screws to put a 1mm washer, or two, on the wheel side of the screw - lifting the bed by that much. It will give the idler more clearance.
Another option for giving you a little more offset for the Y-axis wheels is some tapered spacers. I was using these on Delta vertical sliders, so am not sure if it would be too much weight to use these on your y-axis, but just a thought. It is an openscad file that lets you adjust the various key dimensions. Here is a link to it on thingiverse. Just use the TaperSpacers_Rev5.scad file.
Combo Slider Carriage & Belt Tensioner for FolgerTech Kossel 2020 by GeoDave
Thanks. Not really sure where the tapered spacers would go.
I used them instead of these metal spacers to get the carriage the correct offset away from the aluminum extrusions.
Initial fitting of the bed. 12"x12"x1/4" (305x305x6mm) aluminum tool plate. looks like I will need to add some standoffs to get more distance between the bed and the mounting plate. The springs I have are not long enough.
I use a 600W mains power heater. The old printer had a 300x200 bed and could get up to 100c in under 5 minutes. I just like the tooling plate because I know it is flat. Never sure about those thin ones. I also like using Buildtak (and will be getting a flex system for it later) so can't get away with the thin plate and flat glass.
Who makes the heater that you use?
Updates: Been working on the control box for the printer. I am using a Duet 0.8.5 for the controller and a 120v bed heater. Because of this, I don't need a high wattage PSU. I am using a 4A 24v (96W) power supply which is plenty for the electronics and motors. It mounts under the Y axis just like the original. Couple OpenSCAD drawing and a picture of the final unit. I haven't undated the Duet's configuration for the new printer yet.
Yes. It is 5 pieces that are bolted together.
Other than the heated bed, I believe it is all wired up and ready to go. I still need to calibrate it, but running a dry print to shake things out.
Keith made some recent changes to the Z axis parts that I want to use on here. I am having to modify them and when that's done, will try to get all the STL files gathered up and posted. Might be a couple weeks since I will be at the Bay Area Maker Faire next weekend.
A little wiring cleanup. I made a shroud for the molex connector on the carriage to provide some strain release and hid the wires...
Heated bed should be here tomorrow. Once I get that mounted and wired, it will be time to calibrate and level the beast.
Elmo, visit the new assembly manual at
TrueUp Glide Install & Level X Axis
for a new, accurate way to true the bed with the extruder.
That can be done later in assembly by just removing the extruder from the x carriage.
I saw that in the new guide. I was holding off on doing anything in regards to leveling until I get the heater mounted since I will have to take the bed off and level again. Since I didn't use your extruder design, I'll have to find a different way. I have a dial gauge that I can try to attach to the extruder somehow.
IT PRINTED! I finished wiring up the heated bed and couldn't wait until I got back from the Bay Area Maker Faire so I leveled the bed, loaded some filament, and hit print. I was expecting the hotend to be too close/far from the bed, but it seemed it was the perfect height. The printing went great. I have something wrong with the end scripts though. After it finished, it moved to 0,0 and waited a bit, then moved back to the center and tried homing. The print was in the way and....
Other than that, it was flawless. You can see where the hotend landed on it.
Just need to get those ending scripts figured out.
Turns out the problem was I used the home command (G28) instead of the move (G0). It's fixed but won't be able to try again until Sunday.
I first want to start off saying that I really appreciate the work Keith Davis has done with his TrueUp Glide printer (TrueUp Kit Version). I had this up and printing, but was having some issues with the glide system that I was never able to resolve. When I first got it printing, I had no backlash in the X gantry when the Z axis changed direction. But after some printing and adjustments, I ended up with some backlash I just couldn't get rid of. This is more likely due to my parts than Keith's design, which I still like very much.
To resolve this problem, I replaced the glide portion with traditional wheels. Everything else about the build remains the same. Because of this change, I am marking this build as complete and will start another build documenting the changes I have made.
This is what I am now using.
Changes were made to the Z mounts to accommodate the lead screw being moved to the center of the 20x40 upright. Other than these parts, everything else is the same. But because of these changes, I don't feel right calling this a TrueUp clone anymore so am marking this build as complete at this time. I'll start another build to document these modifications. Because the lead screws have been moved further apart, I had to get a new belt for the Z axis and I am waiting for it to arrive.
Hello Elmo. Where can i get your drawings?
Is there a specific part you are wanting or all of them? I am rebuilding the printer and several parts have changed from what was last shown.
I've had a couple of people buying a TrueUp kit who had the same problem with the glides. It's not actually a backlash problem. Instead, the extruder actually bobs down when the glide lifts, and bobs up when the glide goes down. The reason, the PLA inserts were not pushed down tightly in the glide cavity. The cavity and insert are tapered. Once the setscrew has cammed the insert in to seat the nylon round against the rail slot, the insert needs to be pushed down so it wedges tightly in the cavity. Even the slightest play between the insert sides and cavity front & back walls will let the glide body rock against the insert, causing the bobbing motion.
That said, I'm developing a new version of TrueUp that does not used the glide. I'm going for mini v-wheels like you did. My problem is still not with the glide concept, which is extremely rigid when set up correctly (I carry my printer around by the X rail). The problem is in marketing. The self-leveling single Z motor is the main selling point of a TrueUp. Having to explain, and sell, the glide concept also just distracts from the leveling concept, making the "sale point" confusing. Using wheels adds about $40 to construction, which is really why I developed the glide, but I think being able to focus on the main feature will not hurt sales with the additional price.