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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Craig Anderson, May 18, 2018.
As this is a build in progress, I will update it as I progress.
Craig Anderson published a new build:
Read more about this build...
Looking forward to this build! Looks like it will be a solid machine. Please keep updating and sharing details, I would like to build a printer like this as well.
If you have drawing of bottom and top plates, I would be happy to draw it up in solidworks and make files that can be cut with a cnc. I would like to cut it out on cnc router.
Can you open these?
yep. I will work on these tonight.
The drawings are not complete....For instance the bolts on the top plate that go into the 2060's needs to be countersunk so the motor mounts can be placed over them. Share them and I will see if I can find any problems.
Will do. What are you using for cad?
Autocad but its a 1997 version that I own the license for. I run it on a virtual machine and use Windows Xp for the operating system. Its old. But most 3d programs still will upload it.
Did you draw this with nominal dimensions in metric or standard? Everything I measure comes out to three decimal places (not a big deal), just wondering. I wish I would have put dimensions on it at work because all I have to open it with at home is edrawings (free) but at least it allows me to measure it. Your hole sizes come up to 4.9987 something, so for clearance holes I'm going to size them up to 5.4mm. I'm also going to counterbore them 2.5mm in the drawing so they sit just under flush with the surface, so there is room for the motor mounts like you said. You need to get on a 3d system! Fusion 360 is FREE and not that hard to learn. But, hey, I'll help out because I'm interested in this build.
I taught Autodesk Inventor for 4 years. Why do I need Fusion 360? I have it on my machine. What is it that you are not getting? I sure don't need it in this build.
Sorry didn't mean to offend you or anything. I just was really interested in helping putting this together. I'm not "not getting" anything, I'm a mechanical engineer, I was just trying to help out.
I threw a few of the parts together. I won''t offer help where it's not wanted.
I graduated from college in 1970 with a degree in mechanical and a degree in industrial engineering. I still don't see what this projects lacks from an engineering perspective. Why do I need a 3d model?
For your purposes, no you don't need a 3d model. For anyone following your build and wanting to replicate it, it's helpful having a current file format. Maybe some parts could be 3d printed for ease of building. Modifications may be made by someone else who wants to build this, like making it larger or smaller. I'm by no means questioning you or your abilities, posting your build here on an open source site means that others may be interested in your build and want to make it.
Taking a dwg/dxf to manufacturing at home with a cnc or printer much more difficult. Also, many of the components you are using or plan on using are readily available for download, without the need for redrawing them yourself. I'm not trying to argue or talk you into another method. Many things were built using 2d cad, and the is nothing wrong with that. It's just not easily shared anymore.
That's up to whomever might want to copy the design. I am sharing it to demonstrate a way to build a delta without using die cast metal vertices, and still have a very strong and accurate frame for less than $200. Did you ever wonder how I can print my drill jigs if I don't have 3d capabilities.
Alright, I'm not trying to argue with you. Good luck with the project. I was just trying to help lend a hand.
I am not mad or upset. Feel free to copy this design if you choose. But I was taken back by your suggesting I should improve my skills. Sorry if I am too direct, its probably my being so old!
Hi Guys - I'm interested in this build too! I've got many questions.
What dimensions is the frame?
What do you expect the build area to be?
What will you be using for arms and travelers?
I'm eager to hear about more details when you can share.
The build area is 330 mm dia and still not determined height.
Look at the "layout file". That will give you most of the info.
Here is a list of required aluminum stock. Please not the total cost for the frame materials.
Thank you @Craig Anderson. I had a look at the layout file, it looks like is shows a top view with a couple dimensions, gives me some idea. The BOM you just posted answered exactly a couple questions I was having in my head around frame cost and what material to make the top/bottom plates out of. I appreciate you sharing that.
Have you picked out components for the carriages/travelers, effector, hotted, electronics?
I just posted some more files showing the carriages in final form. They lack the 3/4" metal balls but they have finally arrived. The arms will be similar the Huntly rods except I am making them myself. If you are interested, as I mentioned earlier, all of the parts have been drawn on 2d cad. If there is something you want I will post it. But, I am waiting until the end of the build to post the final BOM and drawings. The build diameter is 330mm. The uprights are 1000 mm, but until I get the heated bed placed and the upper horizontal braces installed, I won't know the build height. Something else I should point out is the carriages will ride on the outside of the uprights to provide more clearance for the effector.
Thank you for the additional pics on the carriages. I see what you are doing. It looks like you have your own design of the carriage plates and then using the wheels from OpenBuilds.
Another question on your frame, is the frame rigid enough with the top/bottom 0.25" plates and the uprights? I see you have cross members, at least on the bottom, and it looks like your electronics may be in that position. I'm curious if the cross members add rigidity to the frame that is required, or did you need a place to put the electronics and it is a nice to have rigidity. I ask because I'm looking at frames like the Tevo Little Monster, and putting the electronics on top or in a separate enclosure so that I can maximize the build height.
When I began looking at this build, I wanted a wide rod spacing to enhance effector stability. I started out with 2080 uprights in my design and that gave me 100 mm between rods. I reduced that to 2060 after some conversations with others. Now the rod spacing is 80mm to give the carriage as much stability as possible. Also using 4 wheels per carriage while most use only 3 on a 2020 upright. When it came to the joints, I simple reverted to my structural background. The only other design that seemed strong enough was those using metal cast vertices, but they limit your choice in uprights. The corners have 9 bolts holding the upright, to the plate and the plate to the horizontal brace. Its like having a 100 mm corner brace. The plates and braces form a box at the bottom and top that is extremely ridged and flat. The horizontal braces not only brace the upright, but pull the plates into a flat position. I am building the frame without tightening the bolts from the horizontal braces to the uprights. After everything is assembled and check for square and alignment, I will slowly tighten the horizontal bolts both top and bottom and that will "lock" the frame in place. The power supply and SSR for the heated bed go into the bottom covered by a fireproof panel. There are two fans and one power inlet built into the lower horizontal braces. The electronics will rest on the top plate as will the motors. If I enclose the printer, I want the electronics outside of the heated area. My choices for controller is another Smoothie board, Duet Network, or Azteeg X5 mini.
This is helpful. Thank you Craig.
Take a look at the picture I just posted showing the carriage and effector.