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Delta-Six

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Sage, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. Pete2014

    Pete2014 New
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    Hi Sage,
    Thanks for sharing your build. How are you tensioning the belts?
    Peter
     
  2. Sage

    Sage Well-Known
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    Hi Pete,
    The vertex sections are designed so that you can use M3 hardware to "pull up" the entire top triangle. So you simply loosen all the end cap screws, lower the entire top of the printer, and loop the belts. Then use long M3 screws (with washers hooked on the V-slot) to pull up the top and apply tension to the belts.

    That, or just use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the belt tight and lock it in. I definately make sure that all my belts are exactly the same number of teeth first.

    Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
    -Sage
     
  3. Josh Mascote

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    Do you by chance have any pictures of the idler pulley portion? I am not sure how the idler cap fits to hold the idler.
     
  4. Sage

    Sage Well-Known
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    Sure Josh, sorry for the delay. Here is how I did the setup. Using an M5 bolt through the entire stack it looks like this:
    Bolt head: washer: idler cap: washer: bearing: spacer: pulley: nut: nut: bearing

    That is what I did, but you could do whatever works with what you have lying around. Really all you need to do is get the two bearings held in place with something for the belt to ride on. I used additional pulleys because I had them lying around, but I could have easily just used another bearing sandwiched between two large washers. Making a stack that is held in place to the idler cap (two nuts on the end) makes it easy to assemble/disassemble. Here are some photos, let me know if it doesn't make sense.

    IMG_1004.jpg IMG_1005.jpg
     
  5. Antoine.

    Antoine. New
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    Hello Sage,

    I am very interested in your 3D printer and I would like to have more information about the planetary gear
    It has been printed ?

    Sorry for my English, I'm french
     
  6. Sage

    Sage Well-Known
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    Hello Antoine,
    Yes the planetary gear setup on the extruder was printed. I made it as a test when I got my first 3D printer. Its an adaption of this:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39138 using common hardware.
    So far it has worked great! Lots of power/torque and I like the way it adds to the printers look hanging down in the center. Its been a long time, but I don't think I made a bunch of changes to the original files. Let me know if you have specific questions.
     
  7. Antoine.

    Antoine. New
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    What is the printing surface, height and diameter
    and why not have used three(3*3) wheels instead of four(4*4) for the "carriage"
    and what is the role of the springs

    Thank you
     
  8. Sage

    Sage Well-Known
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    Hello Antoine,
    I'm currently using a 350 diameter glass bed. The effector is ~300mm above the bed when homed. So I could print ~290mm high objects (but it would take forever). I don't have a great reason for using 4 wheels instead of 3. When I made them I simply wanted a lot of support for the carriages, and I already had 12 wheels, and the examples on Openbuilds all used 4... so I built them with 4 each. I've considered changing them, but it would require a require a re-design of the arm attachment points, and I simply haven't gotten around to doing it.
    The springs pull the arms together taking the slop (backlash) out of the ball joints. I'm using cheap Traxxas joints, and this is an easy way to improve the quality of those joints. I'm still poking around with using magnetic joints, but the Traxxas based ones are much lighter, cheaper ,and get the job done better than most of my other attempts. I can post the little spring clip file if you need it.
    -Sage
     
  9. Antoine.

    Antoine. New
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    Hi
    Sorry but I do not understand how you stretch the belt

    With schema this would perhaps be clearer or more pictures

    Thank you very much
     
  10. Sage

    Sage Well-Known
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    Hello again Antoine,
    To understand the belt/tension setup, it may help to imagine that you are simultaneously tension-ing all the belts at once. Also the belt tension setup could be done with continuous belts. Thinking about it in this way should shift your perspective to how it works.

    Set it up like this:
    • Make the bottom triangle and bolt on the motors.
    • Attach the vertical beams to the bottom triangle.
    • Make the top triangle (leave all the bolts loose) and push it onto the vertical beams.
    • Push the top triangle about 30mm past the top of the vertical beams.
    • Loop the belts and bolt in the idlers.
    • Pull up the top triangle and tension the belts. Tighten down the M5 bolts to hold each vertex in place.
    • If necessary you can use M3 hardware + washers to pull up the top triangle assembly. This will tension the belts with more precision (see pictures above)
    Hope this helps!, and let me know if it doesn't.
    -Sage
     
  11. hamlin

    hamlin New
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    Do you have the files for the effector j-head housing with cooling fan and z-probe attachment? I looked at some of the other examples and yours looks the best in my opinion.
     
  12. Justin Edwards

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    I'm attempting to use your parts, I'm glad you made then in openscad. I had some issues with frame stiffness with my extra height. I'm printing out some replacement vertexes with 40mm extra added to the top and an extra set of t nuts / bolts to hold the 2040 more rigidly.

    [​IMG]

    If I have issues after this, I'll have to make some metal brackets if I want to keep the design simple. I'm doing the new vertexes at 'almost' solid fill, so it's going to be next week sometime before I see how they work out.
     
  13. Justin Edwards

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  14. Brian Slee

    Brian Slee Well-Known
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    Nice work Justin :thumbsup:
     
  15. Robert Hummel

    Robert Hummel Custom Builder
    Staff Member Moderator Builder

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    Pimpin my man!
     
  16. Mike Stewart

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    Justin, it looks like we are working on similar things. :) My test part is printing now. Among other things, I added a separate mounting plate for the end-stop switch.
     

    Attached Files:

    #46 Mike Stewart, Sep 15, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
  17. Justin Edwards

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    Nice!

    I'm not solid on my design yet, but I'm getting some progress. Going big definitely requires extra support.


    I did some tests today to make sure the nema17s would be fine, and it seems like they will. [​IMG]
     
  18. Justin Edwards

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    Also Mike, if you haven't yet, add some holes for ease of tightening those inside screws, it's a bit maddening with the extra height.
     
  19. Mike Stewart

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    Justin, yeah, I have run into that. I am going to use my sample part for modifications. My build is not nearly as tall. :) What will be the size of the bed on yours? I picked up a 310mm heated bed and have made some mounts for it.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Justin Edwards

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    My bed can be up to about 420mm I think. My triangle extrusion pieces are 500mm.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It's basically done now. I'll test it with machinekit on my Cramps 2.1 board and Beaglebone Black. I hope to soon be able to get my hands on a smoothieboard.

    [​IMG]
     
    Jestah likes this.
  21. Justin Edwards

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    More work to do later
     
  22. Justin Edwards

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    I wanted to see if you had the scad for your hotend setup on top of the effector.
     
  23. Justin Edwards

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    I did a lot of calibration earlier, will have to do a little more once I get my hotend mount done, that's all that's left before I can do a first print, then I'll go and clean up some wiring and make more brackets.



    I did a real quick hack for the hotend mount.
     
  24. DiggerJ

    DiggerJ Journeyman
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    Can't wait to see it squirt plastic into something cool.
     
  25. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Nice job on the delta-Six Sage!

    I have been wanting to try a delta build, I really like how solid this one seems. I think I am going to give it a go once I get my Prusa 13V back up and running to print the parts for it. ( ramps or lcd arrived shot, Colin is repairing / replacing them for me at the moment. ). So in the mean time I am giving Sketchup a go and planning out a few details.. I will be going 400mm for the six upper and lower sides and 700mm for the three verticals so I can get all the parts from 3 1500mm 20x40 black V-slot. My Delta Six Build.png



    Another detail I am considering trying out as I do not have a stash of washers or such. However I do have easy / cheap access to 1/8 aluminum plate.
    The top of the verticals would be tapped and the plated bolted down to it with M5 hardware. The M3 hardware wold then go through the plate and pull up on the vertex's to tension the belts.


    Top Vertex Tension Plate.png
     
  26. Brian Slee

    Brian Slee Well-Known
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    That looks awesome Justin. Can't wait to see it printing :)
     
  27. hamlin

    hamlin New
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    Does anyone have extra set of vertices (6) they are not using, my CNC router with the plastic extruder is just too slow to get this done (that's why I'm making this Delta).
     

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  28. Justin Edwards

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    I have 3 already printed that were too small for my bottom vertices. Where are you located?
     
  29. Justin Edwards

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  30. hamlin

    hamlin New
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    Austin, Tx
     

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