Co2 Laser cutter/engraver using the OpenBuilds BlackBox

See 60w CO2 Laser BlackBox wire up and other threads here

But basically:
GND to GND
PWM to TH
Potentiometer wired between GND, 5V and IN (wiper to IN) to provide analog reference and panel override knob.
Flow switch wired between GND and WP.


Do NOT use the 0-10v output with software - some day you will accidentally send gcode that turns it fully on, and damage the input expecting 5v. That signal is for VFD Spindles.

 

K40s doesn't have a TH port, only an L port that needs an active low signal.

The 60w+ ones has a proper PSU (info in this thread, does not apply to K40s, they have a much cheaper LPS which makes things harder)

See Advice on CO2 Laser Build

 

P to G shouldn't be a loop, it should be part of your door interlock switches and flow switch in a normally closed loop. Ignoring safety and running blinding lasers from 20kv immediate heart stopping electrocution power supplies are a very bad dangerous attitude to combine.

0-10v is for VFDs. Careful when "trying" random things - putting 10v into 5v inputs can break electronics (not covered under warranties) if in doubt ask first.

 

Ok cool, yes please stay safe. Fix the previous owners mistakes before its too late

Mostly seems you were missing the potentiometer for G/5V/IN
But with a previous owner, it could just be faulty too. Hard to know

Laser tubes has a 6 month shelf life, if it sat around tubes probably dead too.

 

See my earlier reply

 

That is correct yes - don't forget the interlock loop between P (for protection) and G (gnd) via NC door switches and NC flow switch

Provided earlier experiments mistakenly wiring to 0-10v output didn't damage BlackBox , or damage from previous owner to Laser PSU or dead tube from sitting unused - it should work. Don't forget eye protection though... And make sure all high voltage contacts are at least 200mm away from any other wires or frame (20kv arc will jump 200mm with ease)

 

Depends how its alarm works. If its a dry contact relay that is "closed" when everything's OK and "opens" when something is wrong you can loop through it. Should still enclose the laser with door interlock switches in series too.

 

L is for "logic low" controllers, does not apply to Grbl based boards

H is the right connection to use. Did you remember to Enable Laser Mode? Grbl v1.1 Laser Mode · gnea/grbl Wiki

Remember what I said earlier too:

Your undocumented experiment might have caused damage after all. Check with a multimeter that the PWM output still goes from 0-5v as you play with the Laser Power menu under Tool On.

 

Answer that question by analysing laser input (are you getting 0-5v? Then the controller portion is correct)
Did you wire your IN/G/5V potentiometer correctly? And adjusted to the max position (ie reading 5v between IN and GND?)

 

Focussing on the wrong part of the question

Pictures doesn't prove anything. Measure!

 

Yes, you've mentioned several times now - please avoid this kind of repeated posting in multiple replies

 

You'd need it to properly test that a) your BlackBox is working fine and b) your potentiometer is working fine