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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Carl Feniak, Sep 29, 2014.

  1. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Late reply, I checked Element 14 and they don't have. Were you able to source some?
     
  2. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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    Happy new year all!

    +1 on the not being able to open the V2 z bar ends, it crashes both S3d and my explorer window when i open a folder with those files ( i get stl preview from inventor )

    The price of M3 and M5 black nylock is ludicrous. I ended up getting a couple of 100 packs from ebay, and i am going to list them when I'm done. Evidently those black nuts are for some RC axles.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/13138134330...49&var=430716263542&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    My box of parts is pretty full at this point, im just waiting for some "spare" time to cut the frames.

    You had wanted to know, a while back, what motor I was using for the 3 screw Z stage, I ended up using http://www.robotdigg.com/product/29/Nema17-60mm-1.5A-high-torque-stepper-motor


    "Chinese New Year is from 18th, Feb to 27th, Feb. ******* takes your attention that production and shipment from China is Not stable during 10th, Feb to 10th, Mar lasting about 1 month, if you have project of new builds, it's better to purchase your items before 10th, Feb from China"
     
  3. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    I am having the same issue with that stl file. Just an issue with the 20x40 version and not the 20x60 by NickM. 123D had crashed before I saved this file so unfortunately I can't just export it again. Can someone edit the 20x60 version and share (chop the center 20mm out)? If not I will have to CAD it again.
    That's a big stepper! Great price too.
     
  4. NickM

    NickM New
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    Hi,

    I've finally got to the stage where I can do some printing, with my build.

    IMG_0759.JPG

    IMG_0760.JPG


    I'm currently printing eight times faster than I would on my Prusa I3, and it's giving much better results.

    IMG_0765.JPG

    Which is surprising considering I'm printing onto a piece of half inch ply, and I haven't done any calibration of the extruder or hotend yet.

    So well done Carl, I'm very impressed with your design...
     
    hax0red and Carl Feniak like this.
  5. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Looks great, love what you've done with the Z axis for the larger bed.
     
  6. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Are you going to go dual extrusion eventually? I like the dual carriage more than the original, I should probably make a similar single hotend version.
    Is that an air-tripper filament drive?
    Now that I have moved my extruder to the front like yours it would probably be cleaner to have my ramps board there as well.
     
  7. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    CADing redone.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. NickM

    NickM New
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    Hi,

    Yep, I'll run dual extruders the new thermistors turn up, I only have enough to run one hotend at the moment.

    I had to make the carriage longer to accommodate the cooling for the hotends. Also I keep bashing the X endstop (or is it the Y) from homing the wrong axis first, I'll have to figure out a way to put the endstop on the carriage to solve this..

    Yep, I put a V-slot mount on an air-tripper filament drive and put one on each side.
     
  9. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    What hotends are you using? I made it for two v6 E3Ds.
    The solution to the homing issue doesn't have to be an endstop relocation (unless that is your preference), you should be able to solve this with a combination of:
    -flipping the XY motor directions, simply rotate the motor pin connector 180 deg
    -swapping the "X" motor for the "Y" motor on the ramps shield
    This is a bit tricky due to the XY movement geometry, but with some experimention you can find the right combination. There are only 8 possible orientations :)
    The version of Marlin I am using does not allow you to use max home directions, therefore you must home to min 0,0. To have no moving endstops with my setup you must home to the back (or front) before to the left/right. Therefore the location of your min/min origin must be either the back left or front right. Since Marlin homes X then Y, that means front/back is your X-axis and Left/Right is your Y-Axis. Not intuitive as typically you'd expect front left.

    NOTE: in my word doc assembly instructions there is a note at the end about tweaking the endstop to prevent the switch from being damaged while homing from the home location. The fix is to simply put a slight bent in the arm of the switch. See below.
    IMG_0912.JPG
     
  10. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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    I like the extra bracing you put at the bottom corners, I'm going to add that to mine. Those cubes look great. I am just waiting on a digikey order and a mightyboard. Any video from that webcam?
     
  11. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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  12. NickM

    NickM New
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    Hi,
    I'm using Aluhotend's, I originally had them on your dual carriage design, they fitted nicely although I had to reduce the groove mount by about 1mm, but then I couldn't manage to fit any cooling in. The smallest fan I have is 40mm and it didn't fit, so I expanded the carriage to get the fans on. I'm still tweaking how it all fits, and what works best.

    I got Marlin to home front/back (my Y) and then left/right, but occasionally I manually home left/right before front/back, or worst when it is in the left/right home and I home front/back it will bend the home switch, even more than it is bent now. Also my kids will be using the printer, and they are more careless than I am, it would be better if it's fool proof.
     
  13. NickM

    NickM New
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    Hi,

    The extra bracing on the front is to hide that gaps where extrusion joins, I didn't manage to cut it millimetre perfect so it has gaps everywhere :)

    I'm still working on the camera. I normally sit it next to my older printer so I have video to look at when things go wrong, but when I sat it next to this machine.... Well it looked up at the underside of the base. I built the mount for it, but now it is to close and all the images are blurry, I'll have to look at getting a different lense for it.
     
  14. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    It may be a little more subtle than this but PETG is basically PET but with the addition of Glycol in the mix. It certainly makes the mechanical properties a whole lot different when it comes to thermo-forming.

    Tweakie.
     
  15. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Interesting, I found my E3Ds fit a little different then my official J-Head as well. Keep in mind that the base slot for the RIGHT hotend of the dual carriage has been purposely made 1mm too large vertically (0.5mm in each direction) for the purpose of being able to easily level the two nozzles with respect to each other. The outer clamp is made to be a tight fit but has slotted holes to accommodate the 1mm play.
    Once you are happy with your mods please share them here or on thingiverse so others will have some build flexibility as well.
     
    #195 Carl Feniak, Jan 11, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
  16. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    I have absolutely no idea but if it's like everything else then it's the one they charge the most for. ;)

    Tweakie.
     
  17. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    Carl - I just got back to this and dnld your latest Zip file. After figuring out Sketchup and loading STL files I am presented with a new challenge - DX files. I figured out it is a zip file and I did open the file with WinRAR but then a new challenge appeared SMT file. I would like to open them in Sketchup and I am using Repetier host to the printer. And I have no idea what to do with the DAT files.
    Thx
    Also - how critical to the design/performance is 20x40 extrusions vs using 20x20?
     
  18. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Those colors look very nice. Good news from my local seller, they are going to bring some PETG in with their next order from eSun so I'll give it a try in a month or two.
    Any PETG printing tricks to share from your experience? Heated bed temp? Hairspray or PET/kapton tape?
     
  19. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    The files in the zipped folder should be .123dx extension. That is because they were created with AutoDesk 123D software, so if you are looking to make modifications then that is the easiest way to go. http://www.123dapp.com/design
    I used the desktop (not online) version. Higher end CAD packages can easily handle the .stl format, but with 123D you can only export them.

    The 20x40 extrusion size really is critical to my design to facilitate the parallel belt runs. You can get away with some 20x20 at the front like I did, but I would not recommend stacking two 20x20 pieces together to make a 20x40 (though technically it could be done in areas).
     
  20. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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    do you know which LED strip you made room for? The 5mm 5050 RGBWW would be fun.
    [​IMG]

    As far as what the G does i dont know, I was printing on 70C glass with the aquanet #5. 240-245 nozzle temp, I used no fan, but removed my enclosure. Good adhesion, very little warp, good release from cooling plate. two warnings, It shredded the PTFE liners in my hot end, I used 3 inserts for the parts I printed. I got on average 20hours from one before I got some jamming. I have since installed some all metal, stepped bore, thermal barriers and have yet to get a good PETG print from it. I do think that the PTFE that I sourced was PFA, so many brands of teflon with different properties. I am going to try switching to a straight bore tube before going back to the ptfe, although I have two new sources of what I hope is ptfe. Second issue, I am getting some extra drag on my guide tubes in the last 20% of the spool. Esun does a good job of making sure the spools have a large center diameter, but there is a noticable curvature. I also just remembered that the spool has been out a while, I need to ask esun if it soaks up moisture. It is pretty dry here in NYC.

    With any luck I should get the frame assembled this weekend.
     
  21. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    The LEDs in my strips are the 5050s. As long as your LEDs stay stuck to the extrusion and your bridges aren't drooping then they easily clear.
    Interesting news on the PTFE liner front. Why do you think that is? Should I avoid using it on my bowden setup? I have a direct feed printer as well, but it has a PTFE lined J-Head on it currently.
     
  22. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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    I do think that the PTFE that I got was actually PFA, another brand of less thermal resistant teflon. Also the hot end in your E3D should be all metal? the ptfe in in the cold end? I know very little about the bowden setup.

    edit. I am printing with a makerbot clone, the ptfe extended all the way into the nozzle.
     
    #202 adamcooks, Jan 13, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  23. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    The v6 E3D bowden version does extend the PTFE fairly deep into the finned portion but not to the heat break or heater block. It allows me to print ABS and PLA in the same nozzle without risking a J-Head like peak failure. I was skeptical but now I am a big fan of it (and have two of them for my very soon dual extrusion addition).
    I've found that I can't print PLA in an all metal without canola oil seasoning and conditioning. I've done this with a rip off V5 E3D and a pico nozzle. Both work great for ABS though!
     
  24. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    I think I stumbled on a deal. Does anyone have any familiarity with there steppers.
    NEMA 17 BIPOLAR STEPPER MOTOR, KL17H248-15-4A, 76 oz-in
    from: http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/
    direct to their site for combined shipping 5x=$58.44 >>>> 6x=$62.03
    shipping is cut in 1/2 adding 1 more. good to have a spare.
    the only potential issue is they r 48mm long, but it appears there is plenty of room for them.
    Might there be any other issues??????
     
  25. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Spec wise those look fine. Length is not an issue for those. If you put rubber feet on the bottom of the printer then you can put up to 60mm steppers.
     
  26. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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    The 90 degree brackets from the part store use M5 x 8mm, the 10mm's are too long. Ordered some proper black ones, going to head to home D for some temp one tonight. So far things have gone together pretty easily. Printed parts are spot on so far. and have needed no post processing. I did fail to measure my stairway, its a fairly tight spiral, and I had to take it outside to get it downstairs. whoops
    bogbot.jpg bigbotstairs.jpg
     
    hax0red, bhalkett, MichaelS and 2 others like this.
  27. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Looks great, that's huge! What length of lead screws are you using?
    M5x10 work with the printed corners. I thought the Open Builds store corners came with two flat head M5x8 bolts so I didn't think to mention it in the BOM. A quick check shows they don't. Oversight on my part (or they changed it).
     
  28. adamcooks

    adamcooks Well-Known
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  29. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    And unfortunately the 10mm bolts with a couple washers won't work as the bolt heads will collide. This is why I designed the printed corner to have a 25mm side versus the openbuilds 20mm side, it give the bolts some more room.
     
  30. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    I was about to order my rails yesterday and SHOCK prices jumped by 28%. Can u believe that?
    OK so I will start printing and wait till they come to their senses.
    I HAVE a question about infill. Does anyone have a recommendation about % & type to use for these parts. I'm starting with the extruder. I have no clue.
     

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