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C-Beam Machine XLarge

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Moag, Jul 31, 2016.

  1. Adam Joseph

    Adam Joseph Well-Known
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    Did anyone have the y axis binding initially? When assembling the y axis actuators to the frame, and spinning the lead screws, there is a binding happening. I believe this is due to the set screw getting caught on the 8020 aluminum pieces at the front and back. Any direction here?
     
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  2. Josh B

    Josh B Veteran
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    collar.jpg
    Adam, I experienced the same issue when I built mine. A solution that worked for me was to create a flat spot on the lead screw shaft where the locking collar attaches. Doing this will allow the collar set screw to go in further and clear the 8020. Hope this makes sense!

    Josh
     
    #452 Josh B, May 7, 2019
    Last edited: May 7, 2019
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  3. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Probably your set screws are too long. You need a 5mm x 4 set screw, hard to find, but the OB store has them. Grinding the flat on the lead screw should work.

    MG
     
  4. Adam Joseph

    Adam Joseph Well-Known
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    So I have everything assembled now. The file idea worked great. No restrictions on my movement when doing it by hand. After downloading the software and trying to jog the machine, I found that my motors will not move. It seems like all of my axes are too tight. I followed the instructions for tightening the eccentric nuts. I can move all the lead screws by hand pretty easily. And I set up the control software as instructed from the black box documents. Any ideas what the issue could be here? I can't seem to find anything similar to this in the forum. Thanks in advance.
     

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  5. Josh B

    Josh B Veteran
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    I don't think your motors are binding, sounds like a step issue. Increase your steps/mm, also double check all of your wiring to the steppers. Although, I have been wrong before!
     
  6. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Can you post your GRBL settings here?

    MG
     
  7. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Viewed the video, sounds like you have the motor wiring wrong. Either one coil is not connected properly, or the wires are mixed up.

    Make sure the coils are connected properly, and the same for all motors.

    And seriously, Romex for power wire?

    MG
     
  8. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Agree, video sounds like swopped wires (1,3,2,4 instead of 1,2,3,4) or extremely low amperage (set current pots)
     
  9. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Peter, does the black box use the Motor Enable output from GRBL? Does it reduce motor current when disabled?

    MG
     
  10. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    No reduction circuitry. Enable directly, we set $1=255 to disable the annoying "disable when not in use" in our profiles too... Keep 'em on all the time
     
  11. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Does that not cause the motors to overheat? In my experience, they get hot as a firecracker when left on at 2.8A.

    MG
     
    #461 Metalguru, May 8, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: May 10, 2019
  12. Adam Joseph

    Adam Joseph Well-Known
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    Here are some more pictures. The Romex was due to me not having any speaker wire on hand. It is now the recommended 18 gauge same as the open builds website power cord. The pictures show my wiring connections. It is the same for all four motors. I'm not sure I understand how these are wired wrong. I followed the instructions for the black box.
     

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  13. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    Check your motor wiring. I seem to remember that the High Torque motors use a different color code than the standard motors? Never go by wire color, always check. First time I wired up unfamiliar motors I blew 4 stepper drivers. Same color wires, different internal connections. Ouch!

    To check, rotate the motor by hand to get a feel for how hard it is to turn, May have to loosen the set screw on the lead screw. Now short any two wires together and try rotating the motor again. If the motor is much harder to turn, that means that the two shorted wires are the same coil. By elimination, the other two are the opposite coil. If not, try another pair of wires.

    One coil goes to A+, A- the other coil goes to B+, B-. Not sure how the black box is laid out, but the two A coil leads are next to each other on one side, the B coil wires are the other side. Don't worry about the + and -, the only thing that will change if you reverse them is the direction of rotation. You can fix that in the GRBL configuration. Wire all motors the exact same way.

    x.jpg
    MG
     
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  14. Adam Joseph

    Adam Joseph Well-Known
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    I will give this a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.
     
  15. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    No, the "chinese board" way of adding a current reduction circuit is a falacy.
    Think of a typical job: Plunge, stay at same Z height, do some XY for a while... Current reduction would see no step on Z, and turn its current down. Then Z drops under own weight... Job ruined. Theres a reason the first fix on a chinese BlueBoard was to disable the current limiter (; back in the day.

    Also, setting current appropriately (max isnt always best) wont overheat motors. Motors run cooler while moving yes, but again, think of Z (or any other axis could have locked position for a while depending on the current work) - if you set current to not overheat while moving, those will overheat in the periods they are standing still.

    Do the right thing and setup current properly :) here in ZA we have 45degC summer days (; no datasheet value is going to survive that for example. Adapt to your environment
     
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  16. Metalguru

    Metalguru Master
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    I've been using "Chinese" stepper driver modules for years, and I can assure you there is no "Fallacy" involved. I've never had a Z axis drop by itself with a lead screw drive, even at 20% hold current. Even at no hold current, a lead screw Z axis will not drop by itself. At least in machines using OB parts and small routers. I typically use 20% hold current for lead screw drives, since they have a lot of friction normally, and 50% for belt drive machines.

    The modules do not simply shut down when not enabled, they just reduce the motor current to a holding value (settable to 20%, 50%, 75% of max current). This keeps the axis locked, but reduces motor heating. Even at 20% current, you have to push real hard to move an axis.

    And I don't agree that motors don't get hot, you can't hold your finger on one after a few minutes if it's set to hold at 100% current. Heat is the enemy of electronics, you can't tell me that temperatures upwards of 60C are good for the motors, or the drivers, running at full motor current while just sitting there.

    MG
     
  17. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    To each his own :) Not here to defend a proven design either.
     
  18. Craig & Silas

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    Thank you for posting, this was very helpful in the assembly of the mechanical portion of my build. I purchased the C-Bean XL Bundle with Smoothieboard 5xC, DQ542MA Drivers and motors and the 24V/14.6A power supply. I plan on adding limit switches and the spindle LED light ring. I expect to start out using the OpenBuilds Control software. When searching the forums I see lots of detail but I am missing the Big Picture for the electronics portion of the build.

    My questions:
    1. Is there a wiring diagram that shows how to wire this configuration?
    2. Any problems with longer wires running to an enclosed electronic cabinet in order to keep electronics clean and safe?
    3. I saw a design with 2 power supplies, why do some include a second power supply?
    4. I also something about adding capacitors to the limit switches, is this necessary?

    Thank You
     

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