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Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Moag, Jul 31, 2016.
A rigid and wide format, plate and carving CNC.
No problem. Lots to go around. I am having a bit of an issue getting the touch screen to work. I think it is because I am hooked into a MS Surface which is already touch screen. More news later.
Hi, as Paul knows I was not ignoring him but didn't have access to the computer for a while. I have responded to him off line and I hope is is cutting by now.
Yup. Got some great info from Bill.
Just about ready to roll and then momma came up with a more important (apparently) project.
Getting ready to take off on a holiday and then back to work until late May. Arrrgh....
I just got mine in the mail today! I have similar questions so I will study the answers. WIldbill, can you share the tips you sent Paul with me? Thanks. I am hoping my screw driven CNC will be fast enough.
Here is what I said
For power I use a 2 amp 12V wall wart.
I use the CNC Shield - the question is what version of GRBL are you using? For .9 and later they moved the spindle pin (they needed it to be PWM) so on my clone board I use Z homing pin for the spindle.
I think it was V3.1 that the board is marked properly. A way to test is get a 6V bulb and wire it up like the laser and see if it goes on and off.
Here are the GRBL setings that I use for the laser
$30=255 Max spindle speed, RPM (255)
$31=0 Min spindle speed, RPM (0)
$32=0 Laser mode, boolean (1)
I use T2 Laser to actually drive things and set the laser power range for 5-255 to get the best results. T2 is not free but has trial version that is full featured to see if you like it. For $40 its a great tool for me.
Here is an image I made in cigar box wood
Thanks. $40 is reasonable for software that works. I will quit thread-jacking now.
I think we all wandered with the thread, but all is well that ends well -- and no shouting.
It looks like these were anticipated to be available again on April 20, but now just show "out of stock". Is there a supply issue with a certain component?
To what are you referring? Both the laser and touch monitor are in stock as far as I can see...
Sorry for the confusion, my question is about the original topic of this thread, the C-Beam X-Large Kit.
Ah. Check with Trish at the store, (http://support.openbuilds.com/support/home) last time I talked to her they were waiting on the C-Beam XL Gantry Plates to come in. Should be any day now...
I put this in another thread, but will also post it here. I have attached a BOM for a C-Beam XL With a 500mm X-Axis, and only one actuator. I haven't built the BOM myself, but i believe it to be correct.
There was an error in the previous file.
started the build some time back , overdue but i'm getting there
i got it all together and connected it to the cnc xpro.
1- moving the X has a strange noise, reading from the forum , a member suggested to change the Travel per Revolution value, which did make it smoother
but i'm not sure if this is the best value.
default is 250, new setting is 800
2-even after changing the Travel per Revolution value, i still have a noise when the movements reaching a stop.
is that normal , and is there a setting to improve it
3- is there a recommended setting for grbl regarding this cnc setup, or should i stay with the stock cnc xpro settings?
4- keep in mind this is my first cnc , and grbl experience, i'm searching and reading around, please point me in to any good readings to setup the basics of a new cnc on grbl
example the current / settings and wiring
regarding the motor and lead screw setting.
i used the Steps per millimeter - lead screw driven systems calculator (RepRap Calculator - Prusa Printers)
added the below inputs based on the motor and lead screw settings from the openbuild stror site info
NEMA 23 Stepper Motor - High Torque Series
8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw
and arrived at the 800 value which I'm using now for all the motors
Openbuild's screws are four start. Pitch only equals mm/revolution (lead) on single start screws. For multi start screws lead = pitch*starts. You need to use
(motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch*starts. So for a 1.8° stepper 1/8 micro stepping and openbuilds screws that would be.
(200*8) / 2*4 = 200 that will get you very close, then following the excellent tuning guides you can then dial everything in perfectly.
thx for explaining that to me.
i'm currently running the setup using the ATX , for initial testing , but the motors spec suggest 24v.
will switch to 24v and test again with 200.
Anyone know of a good dust boot and mount for the xlarge build?
Just got the parts in order to make my c-beam machine into an XLarge. I picked up some NPN NC inductive proximity switches to use. Any mounting ideas?
I did a write up in
Prox Sensor Wiring for Limit/Homing Switches
that has some detail on how I mount them. Contact me if you have specific questions.
Sorry if already mention but not gone through all the pages, but is there a reason why there is no additional anti backlash components on both the y and x axis gantries, to replace the acme 8mm blocks used?
If I understand your question correctly, you are asking why the anti-backlash nut blocks are not used on the X and Y axes. The answer is that it is an anti-backlash arrangement. It just uses 2 standard nut blocks mounted on slotted holes. Thus, the backlash can be adjusted by moving one nut block closer or farther away from the other. This has a few advantages, it provides more surface area for the screw to ride on, and it gives the acme screw better support. I personally like the dual nut block system way better than the single anti-backlash nut block. It's much stronger.
Ah ok thanks, i thought there might be a reason for this, thats why thought i would ask.
Looking to put this beast together but expand y axis to 1m instead of 500mm as material stock i want to use is 500x600 so the current table cutting size is a little small.
Is it just me and my computer (and my smartphone) or the pictures don't show up anymore in the build description ?
Alright. I found the pdf of the assembly manual in the files and drawings section, so I don't need the pictures anymore. Thank you
Well I've got my new XL almost finished, though I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to attach the X and Z Axis together as the pictures weren't totally clear on that. Decided to negate the second Y-Axis and add two Linear Bearings and a Build Plate. Hopefully it's easier to set up with my G540 though I'm in the process of adding PNP Proximity Switches for my homing sequence.
(4) 10mm or 12mm screws into the front side (2 each side). Extend screws through the smooth holes in the Z-axis plate and into the threaded holes in the X-axis plate.
(4) 65mm screws into the back side w/ (2) 20mm spacers and (3) shim washers each (2 screws at top, 2 screws at bottom). Extend screws through the smooth holes in the X-axis plates into the threaded holes in the Z-axis plate.
Seriously? You just need 4 screws (or 8). Note how the plates are threaded in 4 holes and thru holes in 4 others (between the wheels)? With the plates lined up 90 degrees from each other, just put screws through the holes in one plate into the threaded holes in the other plate. Easy Peasy. You can just use the 4 holes top and bottom, or put screws through the other way into the 4 holes 2 left, 2 right, as well. These plates were designed to bolt together at 90 degress specifically for attaching the Z axis to the X axis.