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C-BEAM-GTC

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by GinoTheCop, Mar 9, 2016.

  1. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    Gino,

    That looks great!!! I think it will work great as well. I use parallels in my vise to lift the stock a bit but this would work for that also...I might have to make set out of Derlin Blocks with these lips ;) That's the cool thing about these little projects, so expandable and so easy to customize :)

    BTW: I love your renderings!!!

    Sonny
     
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  2. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    Gary,

    The vise is designed to use T-nuts in the slots along with the Low Profile Screws to secure the blocks to the rail. I assume Gino would simple mount them the same way on his bed (looks like it will be built from V-Slot Rails!?!?).

    Sonny
     
  3. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Can it be "Quick release"?
     
  4. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    If you use "Drop in T-Nuts" it could...
     
  5. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    I'm mentally picturing a sprung loaded handle, on top, doing something to lock it in place.
    Do you know what I mean? :rolleyes:
     
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  6. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Thats exactly what I plan to do.. Use drop in T-Nuts..

    The rails will be from local market here.. They are 15mm by 120mm with 8mm slots and they have M5 drop in T-nuts as well.

    Here are the specs of the rails:

    [​IMG]

    And you can download the model from HERE
     
    #36 GinoTheCop, Nov 3, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2016
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  7. GinoTheCop

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    An easy-lock option would be great bu I am short of ideas for that for now :sleepy:

    I will though reverse the rails so that they will have 3 slots on top instead of 4.. 1 less screw is going to be better I think..
     
  8. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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  9. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Hmm that looks promising.. Wish I could source them here.. but then again I just might..

    Something that would prevent the screw to release the t-nut would be far better as well. Coz.. you know when you turn the screw a bit too much to loosen the grip one of the t-nuts may be released and then I will have to undo them all 3 to "catch" the fugitive t-nut :)
     
    #39 GinoTheCop, Nov 3, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2016
  10. Moag

    Moag Master
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    Design the block well with fexability of use and tempt Mark to add it to the partstore... Spacer Block "clamp block.
     
  11. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Those lock nuts look nice, but not what I was thinking of. :(
    I see 2 or 3 long bolts hanging from each clamp. With probably plastic ends. These would be slightly oblong in shape.
    As you place the clamp, the oblong shapes would drop down into the slot of the rail. You would twist, so it locks to the sides of the rail, similar to an eccentric action, :rolleyes: and then the sprung loaded handle would pinch it up tight and lock it against the rail slot top. :D
    Can anybody else see the picture I'm describing? :banghead:
     
  12. Sonny Lowe

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    Haha, you know that's going to happen :p
     
  13. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    That would be cool :cool:
     
  14. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    I think I've wrapped my mind around what you're saying...let me ponder it for a while o_O
     
  15. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Yeah, but then I found this in the local market.. Add a knob on top and voila? Don't you think?

    These are M6 and they have L 23,5mm or L 18.5 mm versions too

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    Gino,

    That is so ironic, while out on my ride I was thinking you could modify a carriage bolt to look exactly like that...but this is so much better!!! Will it drop into the slots of your rail!?!? I just checked McMaster-Carr and the smallest carriage bolt they sell is M6 as well :(

    This is too much fun :D:D:D
     
  17. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Yeah the rail is 8.2 mm wide and these are 8mm so they drop in perfectly :cool:

    Edit: I spoke too soon I guess 8.2 is the width of the lips alongside the rails.. The rails are 8 mm I believe.. I will have to go there and check and see to make sure :zipit:. But then again yeah this is so much fun :D
     
  18. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    By the way, during the test runs, (after activating homing and hard limits) the limit switches activated and locked the controller when the DeWalt spindle is on.
    I am suspecting this is because the power supply and the spindle are fed through the same electric mains and the spindle is generating some electromagnetic interference (EMI).
    I have been looking for EMI filters but their ranges are so cunfusing that I could not make up my mind which one to buy.

    Any advice on that problem?

    1- What specs should the EMI filter have?
    2- What type EMI filter do I need?
    3- And where should I connect it to? I am assuming best practice would be to connect it somewhere between the PSU and wall? Or do I need to filter the cables from micro switches to the controller card as well?

    These seem to be best practical solution as they are (i guess) simply clipped over the cables..

    Duh this is a bit confusing but am sure theres a solution..:rolleyes:
     
    #48 GinoTheCop, Nov 3, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2016
  19. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    Gino,

    There is no doubt in my mind you will get this sorted out quickly...I look forward to seeing the results :)

    BTW: What software are you using for all these renderings??? Again, they look amazing!!!

    Sonny
     
  20. Moag

    Moag Master
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    How have you setup your end stops? Are they mechinical switches?
    NC (normally closed) or NO (normally open)
    I set mine up (on a Smoothie Board) NC to avoid unwanted noise and twisted the wires (pinched from a ethernet cable).

    Here's a guide on end stops from the Smoothieware site.
    CNC Mill Guide - Smoothie Project

    A bit more infomation about noise.
    Combating endstop noise on a RepRap - misc - Wide Open Throttle

    An a video about those "ferrite chokes".


     
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  21. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Thanks Sonny..

    I am using Thea for the renders. It has a plugin for SketchUp and you can directly render your design inside SketchUp. Material library is great and the rest is scene/studio setup of your imagination.
     
  22. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Thank you for great sources Moag.

    Yes they are mechanical micro switches and I soldered them to be "NO" using high quality speaker cables.

    I read somewhere "NC" helps as well.. So during the upgrade I need to reverse them I believe. But then again I have to be 100% sure there will be no EMI in the system as it wo─▒ld be far too frustrating if the machine halts during a cut (specially while cutting some complex design from expensive stock) .

    I disabled the homing and hard limits for now to avoid the issue.
     
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  23. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    Gino,

    I was thinking about your Jaw Mod idea (which I love) and thought this might be a nice compromise between either a Flat or L-Shaped Jaw set. Make a set of soft jaw, pretty much any shape you want and bolt (or maybe even double back tape) them to the metal jaws. This allows endless possibilities as far as Groves, Slots, Ledges, Etc.... Here are a couple examples, sorry no cool renderings from me LOL

    Soft Jaws.jpg

    Soft Jaws V-2.jpg
     
  24. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Awesome idea! Removable jaws for different purposes!

    Render is nothing compared to awesome ideas LOL
     
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  25. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    This is my version of your idea.. For 15X120 mm rails..

    [​IMG]
     
  26. Sonny Lowe

    Sonny Lowe Master
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    That is Beautiful :thumbsup:
     
  27. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    OK one final eye candy..

    [​IMG]
     
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  28. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    Hmmm. Collision alert!

    Carriage bolt + knob setup will cause Z actuator to collide with any knob taller than 7mm :blackeye:

    I guess will have to move back to drop in t-nut + low profile screw setup..

    [​IMG]
     
  29. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Well spotted!! :thumbsup:
     
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  30. GinoTheCop

    GinoTheCop Master
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    And the solution is using M6 dome nuts (DIN 1587).

    The tool diameter to tighten/un-tighten is 14mm. The hole diameter I made is 16mm so this should work. And it should not be too difficult to tighten these down.

    The dome nuts stick out like 2mm from the blocks so no Z clearance issues.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #60 GinoTheCop, Nov 4, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2016
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