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C-Beam cnc

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Kyo, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. KM4_2855

    KM4_2855 New
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    I was thinking the same thing but I know if that woul be worthwhile. Thanks.
     
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  2. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Just dropping some cool photos of Sphinx builds out in the wild. Remember to come back to the Openbuilds forum and share your build we like to follow along :thumbsup:

    1.jpg

    1m.jpg

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    03.jpg

    04.jpg

     
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  3. SEMANE MENGISTU

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  4. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    Now that I'm finally in the wiring stages of my build, I realized that I have another question...How are the connections that go to the 5V or ground pin on the Arduino to be hooked up? I ask because I have four drivers...are they all to be hooked up the same and run to the pinouts on the board?
     
  5. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @SEMANE MENGISTU
    Chris has sets on E-bay and provides quality plates. Search Sphinx cnc.

    @Aeneas
    I would pickup some barrier strips. Such as these "Here". I did not originally use them. But now that I have for other projects. I really like the ease of hook up they offer for common signals like ground and 5v. Hook one barrier strip to the arduino ground pin and another to the 5v pin. Each driver will then be able to have its own screw terminal connection for easy hook up and wiring.
     
    #275 Kyo, Feb 10, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
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  6. Aeneas

    Aeneas New
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    That's great. I ordered them and they will be arriving today. Thanks @Kyo

    Just to clarify...do I need to hook up to both the 5V and the ground? Based on the wiring diagram it looks like it's one or the other.
     
  7. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    No problem :thumbsup:
    you are correct you just need to hook up the connection you will be using as per the diagram.
     
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  8. Henry Pel

    Henry Pel New
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    Kyo
    I've purchased a 52mm 400watt Spindle motor and wonder what I could use to mount it to the C Sphinx
     
  9. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @Henry Pel
    Do you have access to a 3d printer? I would be happy to model up a cad file and provide a stl for a reducer mount similar to what I run with my dewalt.
     
  10. Henry Pel

    Henry Pel New
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    Yes My son does have a 3d printer. the stl would mount to the OpenBuilds double wide gantry plate?????
     
  11. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    It would slide into the Openbuilds standard router mount this one "Here" and act as a shim..

    In the resource section is a 53mm router mount that mounts directly to Vslot. I have not printed one so I am unsure if the mounting points line up with any of the holes on the double wide gantry plate. But might be worth a look. "Here"
     
  12. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Great news for those who have been asking about my Z-axis setup! The OpenBuilds parts store now has both a "Kit" as well as each individual component in stock. You will now also find a updated B.O.M in the Files and Drawings "Tab" with corrected links to reflect this as well as links to the plate set offered by Chris for a more complete b.o.m. :thumbsup:
     
  13. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Journeyman
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    I'm in the process of putting mine together. The entire assembly was loose up until now. But something isn't right as one plate hits the ends before the other. It's about a 1.5mm gap. The only possibility would be the c beam not being cut perfectly. It may be just the one I'm using for the gantry. It may be all three. I don't know. Would it be OK if I kept it forced square with the lead screws? As in, secure one side against the plate, then install the other lead screw and rotate it until the other side hits.
     
  14. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    I have used the M5 plate mounting screws to fudge a out of square cut a few times. Tighten this side a bit then the other each side in a star pattern in tell tension and tight bolts keep every thing square. Please learn from my mistakes and Don't do it. It takes way longer to setup and square this way and it is not as ideal as taking a little extra time to get square flush cuts from the get go.

    Check out @DazTheGas new build video he is building a c-beam sphinx style cnc "Spartacus" and details a great method for getting the ends square using the tools one would already have on hand during the build ( a router and V-slot)

     
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  15. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Can you please provide a link where can I get all the parts for this build. I do not have access to cnc to fan these myself. It is a great build and I am drooling over it

     
  16. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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  17. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Do the new plates that Chris selling accommodate secondary backlash nut which was not fitting due to spacing in original version ?
     
  18. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Yes, he has the updated files...
     
  19. tcurdt

    tcurdt New
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    Talking about that: I still don't get the need for a secondary anti backlash nut. Could someone explain the idea behind that?
     
  20. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    My original idea behind having three nut mounting points on the plates was as follows.

    Center = Anti backlash nut
    Two outside = Two regular nuts

    With two regular OB derlin nuts you can pinch or squeeze them together to reduce back lash in place of running a single anti-backlash nut. I built the original machine with only a single anti back lash nut and found it to be sufficient.
     
  21. tcurdt

    tcurdt New
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    Aaaaaaaah - OK. Now that makes sense. Thanks :)
     
  22. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Would this build be able to cut some lightweight aluminum ? I build scale rc helicopters and time to time need to cut small parts . 1/8" aluminum is common and in some situation, I may need to cut 1/4" as well.
     
  23. DazTheGas

    DazTheGas Journeyman
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    Kyo and ashish B like this.
  24. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Great. I am loading up shopping cart :). Is there a way to fit ball screw instead of acme
     
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  25. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Sure, you can make a ball screw work. However, unless all the holes in the ball screw nut line up with the existing holes in the plates and the nut has the same standoff as the existing anti-backlash nuts, so the ball screws won't bend, you just need to redesign the mounts a bit. This may actually be the case, but I don't know what parts you are considering.
     
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  26. RobertW

    RobertW New
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    I used duct tape for mine.
     
  27. Chris_W

    Chris_W New
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  28. Chris_W

    Chris_W New
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    I found the new BOM the one under Parts List is old and out dated. I think the price its coming to is going to push me towards to C-Beam kit instead sadly.

    I assume that at a later date the parts from that can be used to create me the Sphinx of my dreams
     
  29. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    I guess I will go with as is option and look to upgrade one at a time starting with z axis . I need a machine to machine another machine :) .
     
  30. RobertW

    RobertW New
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    If you source your parts from Aliexpress you can spread your dollars farther. I recently made a cbeam plate machine from chinese sourced parts. grand total including motors and electronics was close to $500. The only parts ordered from the openbuilds parts store were the extrusion and the spindle mount. ( hard maple or ipe was not suitable for this)

    It definitely took some planning and research, a few things arrived damaged in shipping ( only cosmetic) but aliexpress has a fairly generous consumer protection plan and I was able to get some hefty discounts because the supplier sent me scratch and dent aluminum plates instead of new ones.

    My nema 23 wantai motors are fast. I have been running my plate maker cutting hardwoods at 1-200 ipm with a climb cut and a razor sharp carbide upcut spiral. I spent around $140 for the motors, drivers, and controller.

    My only caveat was everything was in MM so i had to constantly convert from imperial to know what I was ordering.
     

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