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C-Beam™ Machine - Plate Maker

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. phil from seattle

    phil from seattle Journeyman
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    I looked about both of those boards and felt their current ratings are wishful thinking. If you look at the chip's data sheet, they use the current ratings are pretty close to absolute max. Definitely would not set the current that high. I use the same stepper motors with 4 Amp rated drivers. What is your current set to on the drivers? It won't break anything to set it lower but you could get missed steps if set too low.
     
  2. ZombiEd

    ZombiEd New
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    I'm using an Arduino uno with a CNC Shield with A4988 driver modules. Can't decide on 1/16 or 1/8 but leaning to 1/8. Any recommendations as well as how to adjust the POTS on driver modules. It seems what I read is more trial and error.
     
  3. MetalDesigner

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    Does the C-Beam work with G-Code from MakerCam?

    No matter what I do I can not get the MakerCam G-Code to run on my C-Beam. *sigh* I've been up for 38 hours trying to find ANY G-Code program other than SketchUCAM that will work ... is there a setting I am missing in MakerCam?
    I notice the MakerCam files end with .nc ... and all the example files from OpenBuilds that came with the C-Beam are .cnc and they all the OpenBuilds G-Code examples function perfect on my C-Beam so I no it is working correctly with the xPro V2 and Grbl Panel.

    I made a YouTube video showing the MakerCam files running correctly in CAMotics simulation but they stop on the C-Beam as soon as the Z moves off Home for the first time.


    I draw everything in SolidWorks and usually have items cut a Fab shops out of Laser, Plasma, and WaterJet ... I bought this C-Beam to do simple small items and it is easy to create accurate .SVG files but in have never been able to find a G-Code program yet that can make a G-Code file that will work on the my C-Bean.

    I see all these people on the forum saying they use MakerCam with .SVG files but I can't get MakerCam G-Code to work?

    So tired... Depressed Please ANYONE Help me PLEASE
     
  4. MetalDesigner

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  5. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Hello @MetalDesigner
    Sorry to hear your having these troubles.
    I suspect that it is the T code (tool change) waiting for a resume.
    try removing the T0 M6 and re-save to see if that works.

    I have not used makercam so maybe some of the guys here who are using it can chime in, but from some reading it
    sounds to me like you have the wrong post settings from makercam and don't have it set up for GRBL. Should be a .nc or txt file.
    Please have a look at this Shapeoko discussion, as it me help to shed some light on setting up the post processes to spit out the correct format of gcode.
    The Shapeoko Forum • View topic - MakerCam and Inkscape Post-Processor
    Also if your looking for the work flow have a look at this video for Sketchup, makercam,universal gcode sender


    Another option would be to change your workflow and try out LaserWeb
    GitHub - LaserWeb/LaserWeb4-Binaries: Installers for LaserWeb4

    Hope this helps
    Mark
     
    #1535 Mark Carew, Dec 19, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2017
    SuperDave42 and Scotty Orr like this.
  6. phil from seattle

    phil from seattle Journeyman
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    My thought too - tool change. Try the cycle start/resume button?
     
  7. MetalDesigner

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    Did you get you C-Beam to work? Only files I have been able to run on the m

    Deleted the line and it worked ... THANK YOU TONEVERYONE THAT SUGGESTED IT!

    I can now finish Christmas gifts ... I’ll write a proper thank you after sleep
     
    GrayUK likes this.
  8. neverbuilder

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    Can anyone give me an idea of the shipping weight of the mechanical bundle from the OpenBuilds part store? I need to pack it into a suitcase to take on an airplane.
     
  9. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Well-Known
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    Probably cheaper to ship it
     
  10. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Might be easiest just to ask the parts store. http://support.openbuilds.com/support/home
     
  11. Beëlzeblub

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    I think it would be great to maybe also provide bundles for people that want to upgrade their cbeam to cbeam xl! I'm thinking of a rebuild myself.
     
  12. daisosasen01

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    I got my machine running. After the first xpro v3 board was unresponsive I replaced it with a 2nd one I bought. (OPENBUILDS: what can I do about this? I purchased the board about 2 years ago and barely opened the package and connected it to my cbeam yesterday. Can I get store credit?)

    1) My problem, my X-stepper randomly stops moving when ordered to. Both manually and while executing a file. I read in the forums of a similar problem but don't recall which thread and the solution to it. All wires are connected properly. I have to disconnect the USB and the PSU and reconnect after to solve the problem which occurs again.

    2) I am having difficulty finding a software that is not ridiculously expensive. What I am trying to do is level a waste board and drill holes for counter sunk t-nuts. I have tried sketchup with sketchucam...and about to do fusion 360 but both are way complicated for the simple task I want.

    I created a custom waste board dimension of 360L x 360W to accommodate the cuts I want to do.
    Anyone able to help?
    (I am actively searching for answers by reading threads and using the search function. So far search results are not helpful)
     
  13. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Well-Known
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    For your steppers check to see if you are running enough current on your driver's. I haven't used the xpro but pretty sure there is an adjustment pot near the driver chip to turn up and down the current. Too much your driver chip will over heat. Too little your steppers will stall.
    For software all you really need for what you are doing is a way to create 2D line drawings and then export them as a .dxf to a CAM program. I have been using Estlcam for CAM. Your counter sinks and holes will be done in CAM when you tell it what depth to cut each 2d circle.
     
  14. daisosasen01

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    Hi Jimmybuckets

    Yes I have the current all the way up. I made sure that all stepper are receiving enough juice. I just ran into that software. I'm watching the tutorials. looks promising.
     
  15. rom

    rom New
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    Hello
    Welcome to the community !

    1), I would suggest to swap first your X motor with another one and see if the problems stays on same axis or went to the other one (temporary test of course). You could have some motor problems, wire problems, stepper driver problems, endstop problems, power problems, shielding problem (your controller "crashes")... not easy to say (perhaps you could make a video with your phone showing the situation ?)

    2) For operations and basic programs like levelling, I use bCNC. It allows to create some toolpaths for standard operations. Don't know about countersinks, but levelling is included. GUI is a little strange but it works well. If your objectif is to do more complicated stuff with your CNC, I recommend learning a little of Fusion 360. Quite logical and steady software, I do everything with it now, even "artistic" engraving.

    Hoping I could help
     
  16. daisosasen01

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    bCNC? I have that and tried to create some tool path's. I wasn't able to figure it out. I tried using sketchup and was able to create a toolpath. But it never was the correct dimensions I have no idea why....So I gave up on both. Is it possible to do a face chat via facebook? I really need some education to get started. What I want to do is simple stuff mainly plate's...yet I am having a horrible time getting started. you can find me with my email [email protected] If you can we can setup a time.
     
    #1546 daisosasen01, Feb 7, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018
  17. rom

    rom New
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    Sure. I sent you a GMAIL/hangouts invite. if you can screen-share your bCNC GUI, I can check your parameters and show you around
     
  18. daisosasen01

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    Sorry just saw this, replied to your hangout
     
  19. Beëlzeblub

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    Question guys, is there an easy way to tighten the tensioner nuts on the z carriage? I mean, my plate where the spiddle is on, gotten a bit loose and i'm trying to figure out how to tighten it without having to demolish my z cbeam? Would welcome and help pls.

    Thanks guys!
     
  20. phil from seattle

    phil from seattle Journeyman
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    Loose can mean many things. Are the wheels tight? I'd first check that and tighten the eccentric nuts. If you are talking about backlash, adjust the grub screw on the lead screw nut (or what ever the delrin block thingy is called).
     
  21. Beëlzeblub

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    it's the eccentric nuts! but do you have to remove the block on top to tighten those nuts cause it's kinda hassle to tighten as is no?
     
  22. linmag

    linmag New
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    Wow, what a long thread. I have just gone through it (more or less - there something like 1500 posts). A LOT of good information.

    I have just started a C-beam Machine build myself ( https://openbuilds.com/builds/c-beam-machine-modesty.6360/ ), and all I can say is that this is easy to build (fantastic kit and good build video). And I think that this forum are really helping first time builders - great job everyone.

    I have changed my build a little, using 300 mm C-beam as uprights for the gantry and using XLarge gantry plates. I will use SBR16 linear rail for supporting the table.

    My first idea was to flip the Z C-beam (same as the XL machine), but I’m not sure after completing most of the build. You loose the possibility to move the tool above the bottom of the C-beam, and you need taller gantry for the same thickness of material to be cut.

    Does anyone here have some rekommendations, who have tried both configurations?

    Thanks,
    Magnus from Sweden
     
  23. daisosasen01

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    Alright...I give up. Long moments of disappointments and stuggle with short bursts of excitment. I want to throw this machine in the trash. Is their anyone I can schedule time with to help me figure this out? I can do webcam, facetime, by phone. I really want to get this machine working and the googles amount of time and effort is not paying off.

    Problem's
    1) Unable to get my hard limits to work. I followed instructions and board diagram from this forum.
    2) Unable to get my probing to work. Ground is red wire (aligator clip to drill bit), Probe is black wire (or wire connected to block of aluminum) I followed this video
    3) I just changed my Z-axis stepper and that is now doing the same thing that the prior did which was infrequently work. The problem has spread to the Y-axis now. I have to reboot my system and disconnect/ reconnect power to get it running again.

    I have enough juice which is all the way up minus half a turn.

    Fusion 360 file at end of post to whom ever honestly wants to see this thru. I prefer to learn how to fish rather then receive a fish for a day but I've reached my end.

    Here's a video of it:

    wasteboard 02-09-18 | Fusion 360 | Autodesk Knowledge Network

    I am trying to execute: Bed leveling with drill holes.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1553 daisosasen01, Feb 10, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2018
  24. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I will try to help. First, do not worry about limit switches. You can get away without them. Figure it out later after you have enjoyed cutting some stuff first. I have had my, machine up and running for a year and a half and have never finished hooking up my limit switches and have never needed them. I know its maximum cutting area and I manually jog it to the front left corner of my machine (or material I plan to cut) and hit the X and Y zero tabs in my software - GRBL Panel. Almost everything I design in either Sketchucam or Fusion 360 has the zero point on the front left corner of the material so I only cut in the positive values of x and y. As long as I don not try to make something larger than my machine, I will never crash.

    Second, forget about z-probing for now. You do not need it. It is cool, but not necessary for now. To zero your Z, bring the spindle down near the surface of your work material (within about 0.5 mm). Loosen the collet and allow the bit to drop down onto the work surface. Tighten the collet. Hit the Z zero tab on your software. Now your z axis is perfectly zeroed to the top of your work piece.

    Third, I can not remember, but have you tried to use GRBL Panel? It is so much simpler than bCNC for a beginner. In fact, I still use it because it is so "clean" in my opinion. There is a an entire folder under the files section above that has GRBL Panel in it as well as a video explaining how to use it. It also has the settings to enter for the Cbeam machine for GRBL panel. I also suggest reading the grbl wiki just to get a better understanding of what the various commands do.

    Alright, now can you jog your machine to where you want? If so, try zeroing your CNC on a piece of scrap and engraving the openbuilds logo using the file located in the the tab I mentioned above. Or, do like i did and zip tie a sharpie to your spindle and dry to draw some things first by making simple gcode for circles and squares. The Fusion 360 file you posted above is way complicated for a first file.

    You can also do manual cutting after zeroing by issuing commands. So, if you have a 6.35mm thick piece of plywood, in the command line type G0 Z-6.35 and hit enter. It will drill down through the material. Then G0 Y100. Then G0 X100. The G0 Y0 then G0 X0 then G0 Z 10. You will have cut a square slightly smaller than 100 mm and the endmill will end up 10 mm above your work piece. But, the square may go flying since there are no hold down tabs.
     
    #1554 Giarc, Feb 10, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
  25. daisosasen01

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    Yes I tried using Grbl panel after giving up on bCNC. It didn't take my gcode kindly from fusion 360. If your up for a little bit longer can we communicate to solve my issue? [email protected] I REALLY want my waste board to get done today...
     
  26. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Here is the gcode for a simple 1/4 inch (6.35mm ) Square that took about a minute to make in Sketchup/Sketchucam. It has tabs. Open the g code and look at it to get an idea of what it will be doing. Ignore "(Material length: 1275.0mm X width: 665.0mm)" because those are my machine's cutting dimensions. It is zeroed X and Y at bottom left and Z on top of the piece. That is why the Z depth goes down to a maximum-6.35. You can see it makes two passes 3.175 mm deep (1/8 inch) each. The tabs are the green rectangles. The gcode is attached.
    upload_2018-2-10_19-51-20.png
     

    Attached Files:

  27. daisosasen01

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    I'm not sure what you want me to see on this? I've already provided the file I made for my machine. Comparing your code with my code it does look different.
     

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  28. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I will PM you.
     
  29. Beëlzeblub

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    Hi guys, i got an issue with my c-beam. so i fixed the wobble in my z axis and worked fine, but when i tried a new cut, my c beam cuts it bigger than my design. i made my design in easel and exported my gcode to upload in ugs and always worked fine but now i have a a cut that's 1.5 to 2 times the size... so what am i to do? Any help would be awesome!!!

    Thanks in advance!
     
  30. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Did any of your GRBL settings get changed? Did your units get changed in Easel (ie inches vs mm)? Did you calibrate your machine? Have you read the whole GRBL wiki ? Home · gnea/grbl Wiki · GitHub

    If not yet calibrated, the GRBL wiki tells you how to calculate your steps per mm depending on what your microstepping is and what screws/belts you chose under configuration. Everyone who is using GRBL should really thoroughly read this wiki and refer to it often. It will speed up your set up time and get you running properly much faster. It will also answer many of the questions people commonly have. If you have not yet calibrated, give it a shot. Once you have read the calibration portion of the wiki, make your theoretical calculations and entered them into your GRBL settings in your software. It should get you close to perfect. For fine tuning, there is a short video in this post explaining how to get pretty much dead on. https://openbuilds.com/threads/lead-screw-driven-ox-derivative-850x1500.6517/page-3#post-50184
     
    #1560 Giarc, Feb 14, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018

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