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C-Beam™ Machine - Plate Maker

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. Darathy

    Darathy Journeyman
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    So my C-Beam is finaly done! I have made my first Cut into MDF using Fusion 360 for CAD and CAM(which is free for Hobbyists)(HSM works for solidworks):
    IMAG0415.jpg IMAG0052.jpg IMAG0051.jpg IMAG0050.jpg IMAG0049.jpg IMAG0048.jpg

    I used 3flute Carbide mill i intended to use for cutting Aluminium but didnt have any other atm. On the first try my Y axis seemed to stop responding mid Cut and messed it( i guess i didnt have high anaugh RPM) then i dialed my dewalt 611 to max and it seemed to cut the 2nd just fine)

    Only thing i noticed that the dimensions werent accurate In x the top box was too long by 0.35mm Y:0.3 and Z:0.1(would be fine for me mostly)
     
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  2. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Well done Darathy! Welcome to the World of CNC.
    May the Chips Fly for You. :thumbsup:
    Gray
     
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  3. JAPartridge

    JAPartridge Well-Known
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    Question on the C-Beam. I know that it will work for the purpose I'm thinking, but want to know if there is another machine more suited to it. My purpose is to engrave hard anodized aluminum to a depth of at least .004". and maybe some more shallow decorative work. I was originally looking at the OX, but then found the C-Beam and realized that would be more suited to what I want to do.
     
  4. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    For depths that shallow you will probably want to use a depth regulated spindle mount. More information on the subject can be found here: Depth regulator
     
  5. dean knipping

    dean knipping Journeyman
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    nice work Darthy. I just finished mine (been a while) and it's now in it's new home and after fixing some motor wiring mistakes it's running fairly nice. I will get pics and a video up as soon as I have a couple of the kinks worked out.

    One thing I have noticed is the work area is more like 11" x 13" even after moving the gantry forward. While I wanted the 12x12 I can easily live with this. My first real issue though is for some reason my bed is lopsided. The X+ side is lower by .070 and I am not sure why. going to have to take a look at it tomorrow after work (it was 90 outside at 8pm and that's just too freaking hot). I need to see what's out of alignment...the gantry or bed
     
  6. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Veteran
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    A pretty common practice with cnc routers is to plane your work surface with a larger flat bottom bit. Something like this:

     
  7. dean knipping

    dean knipping Journeyman
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    I plan on doing that but need to get it closer than 70 thou
     
  8. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Veteran
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    My extrusions that form the risers that hold up the X were not all the same length. So I made sure they were level on one end and didn't worry about if they were sitting flush at the bottom where they attach to the frame. I would guess most likely your x cbeam is not level.
     
  9. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Try 199.1 instead of 200 for your steps/mm and see if you get better results. You have to dial in each machine to get precise results.
     
  10. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    Does anyone have a model for the C-Beam machine in step or iges format? There is one in the resources section, but the download link doesn't work.
     
  11. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Veteran
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    I downloaded the entire library the other day with no issues. C-Beam is in there.
     
  12. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    @Jimmybuckets Can you point me in the direction of the library which has it? I can only find the sketchup models.
     
  13. dddman

    dddman Master
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  14. dean knipping

    dean knipping Journeyman
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    it was my Y axis that wasn't totally seated so there was a little play in it. I have it down to about .02 now and am mostly happy with it since I am going to have a spoil board on this so it isn't that critical...I R just a perfectionist!!

    I do need a sanity check as to what Y0 should be. Should it be the upper left or lower left corner of the build plate? Looking at the axis orientation picture X+ goes to the right, X- goes to the left, Z+ goes up, Z- goes down and those are easy enough but for Y, Y+ is pointing to the front of the machine and Y- is the back.
     
  15. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Veteran
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    Yes that is right. Your bed will be furthest away from you when it is set to zero and move "backwards" towards you when moving the work piece in positive motion. I have to think about the fact that I am moving the material on the Y axis in reference to the cutter. In the X we are obviously moving the cutter so it moves in the "right" direction. I have to think about it in terms of where is the cutter in respect to my material. Otherwise, yes it seems like the Y is moving in the wrong direction...even though its do what it is supposed to.
     
  16. dean knipping

    dean knipping Journeyman
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    ok thanks...My brain did a pop fizzle last night. heck...I have the picture stapled on the wall for reference and was still starting to drool figuring it out ;)
     
  17. Jimmybuckets

    Jimmybuckets Veteran
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    Check out the bottom left hand corner of my bed in this video :)

    Amazon Drive
     
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  18. Gilbert Mackall

    Gilbert Mackall Journeyman
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    This was fun. Aluminum with Oak inlay.
     

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  19. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Gilbert.
    Excellent piece of work!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    A small tutorial on that would be good. :rolleyes:
    Gray
     
  20. Tiddy427

    Tiddy427 New
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    What would it take to make the z axis longer? Like the idea but want a taller z with some more travel, like at least 4-5 inches... TIA
     
  21. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    The best approach is shown in the C-Beam Big Mouth build. Merely making the sides taller and then reaching back down with a longer Z-axis reduces the strength and accuracy of the system.
     
  22. Bob R

    Bob R Journeyman
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    I agree with Rick, plus...

    Even if you simply make the sides taller and the Z-axis longer there's a limit because of the configuration. The Z-axis C-Beam doesn't move in the Z axis. Instead, the spindle moves up and down the c-beam. Since the spindle can't go below the c-beam, the limit of cutting depth is determined by how far the bit can extend below the c-beam.

    So to get more Z reach you need to fundamentally change the configuration. The plate-maker was designed to make plates which don't need a lot of Z travel. Take a look at the C-Beam Machine XLarge. I'm in the process of converting my C-Beam Plate-Maker to it. If you only need the few extra inches on the Z axis you could modify just that part.
     
  23. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team
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    Looks really cool!
     
  24. Gilbert Mackall

    Gilbert Mackall Journeyman
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    Writings not my thing, but here we go.

    1. Created the drawing in Inkscape. You need to create two files, one for the letters that will be pocketed (file: keychain.png) , in the other the letters (file:letters.png) are reversed and spaced out a bit. The reversed letters will be rasied.

    2. Cut out the keychain (img_1446)

    3. Cut our reversed and raised letters (img_1448)

    4. img_1449

    5. Glue letters (lost my ming and over glues this time, what a mess) in and let dry, I clamp them. Route of extra wood. img_1454, omg_1456

    6. Sand with 220, 320,400 and 800. (img_1458)

    Bits: 1/8, 1/32 and 0.8mm for the letter "A".
    Aluminum if 2in x 1/8in x 4ft from Home Depot
    wood was 2in x 1/4in x 4ft from Home Depot.

    Tips:
    1. I have a limited number of bits for cutting aluminum, 1/8 or /14. So I picked a font that was rounded to make letters fit and not have to file and sand.

    2. The c-beam is very accurate, the fit of the letters can be very tight. I use file to bevel the bottom of the letters. Place a little glue in each pocket, line the letters up then press them in. I then clamp the work between two pieces of wood until the glue is dry. If I have a letter that is really hard to get in, I line it up and use a clamp.

    3. For aluminum, I cut at 700mm, 0.15mm per pass, for my 1/8 bit. While I could be more aggressive , I get a consistent and clean result.

    4. I've learned the hard way that the dimensions of martial can vary a great deal, so measure, measure, measure. I've gotten hold of some aluminum that varied in height by +/-0.25mm. That amount of variance caused my machine make some ragged cuts.

    Well, I hope that this is helpful and if anyone has questions, I will try to answer them.
     

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  25. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Really cool!
     
  26. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Hey thanks Gilbert. That was interesting to read. :thumbsup:
    Also good to hear how it goes wrong as well.
    Thanks for going to the trouble of letting us see and know how you got there. :D
    I like your sound cabinet. Does really keep the noise down enough?
    Cheers
    Gray
     
  27. Synths

    Synths Well-Known
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    My first attempt at cutting 'OPENBUILDS' and the motor stalls moving in the Y direction after reacting the P. Any ideas? I'm using the C-Beam Aspire Example Codes '2_Aluminum OpenBuilds Logo_VBit.cnc'.
     

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  28. Synths

    Synths Well-Known
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    The problem was the drivers overheating, poor drv8825's.
     

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  29. Darathy

    Darathy Journeyman
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    Anyone know if i can use Xpro board to use Touch plate to set the tool zero?
     
  30. Giarc

    Giarc Master
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    Video tutorial CNC xPRO Driver
     
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