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BAFP 3D Printer

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Steven Bloom, Nov 24, 2015.

  1. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Resident Builder Project Maker Builder

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    Wow! @Tim N this is an impressive build! I want one of these giants
     
  2. James Armstrong

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    I have a really stupid question. I have been looking at this printer and is it really a CoreXY? The description says "A new Core XY printer" but from what I can tell you are using two motors for Y (one for each side) and a motor for X. That is just a standard setup, not CoreXY. Am I missing something?
     
  3. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Well-Known
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    It was the closest category that I could match to. Do you have a better suggestion ???

    Thanks Steven
     
  4. James Armstrong

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    Not sure, it just through me off because I was interested in CoreXY printers (those are the type I like building). They only use two steppers to control X and Y at the same time, like H bot but better because of minimized backlash and racking.
     
  5. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Well-Known
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    we are using one motor on x and two on y because of its massive size. the two y motors work off 1 controller.
     
  6. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    did you connect the y motors in series or parallel?
     
  7. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    also, can't wait to see the extruder mounted on it.

    edit:
    never mind that, i missed the extruder in the last pic. my bad.
     
    #97 Val Cocora, Apr 2, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2016
  8. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Well-Known
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    I think it would be considered parallel
     
  9. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    s
    i also connected mines in parallel. trying to connect them in series and frying a couple of m542t stepper drivers was the main reason.
     
  10. Tim N

    Tim N New
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  11. Tim N

    Tim N New
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    Printer is now 99% completed...

     
  12. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    i almost hate you for those awesome led lights.
    regarding the printed part, have the same delamination on my first successful print.

    20160529_223630.jpg

    nozzle was 0.35 mm, and filamwnt was pla 1.75 mm.
    temperature was 185 c.
    did you guys figure out why it happens?
     
  13. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Well-Known
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    Player should be printed around 210 c. 185c is causing your problem
     
  14. Steven Bloom

    Steven Bloom Well-Known
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    Pla
     
  15. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    will try 210 c.
    thank you, sir.
     
  16. stargeezer

    stargeezer Journeyman
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    Your filament feed may be too low as well. Try bumping it up a bit.
     
  17. Tim N

    Tim N New
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    Any more pics of your giant printer? Also, what slicer are you using?
     
  18. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    thank you, will look into that.
     
  19. stargeezer

    stargeezer Journeyman
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    Val, I should have asked first, but have you calibrated your extruder? If not there are lots of good youtube instructions that can walk you through the process. It's not hard, but more involved than I can describe here in a couple paragraphs.
     
  20. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    this here pic is taken after the printing of the delaminated part. one can see it under the extruder.

    20160529_223953.jpg

    ..and below is the second attempt, with 210 celsius temperature per steve's recommendations. part printed fine, it's just that i forgot to add support for an overhang. it printed it anyways..:)

    20160530_224447.jpg

    20160530_231140.jpg

    20160530_231225.jpg


    i use slic3r then load the saved gcode into pronterface
     
    #110 Val Cocora, May 31, 2016
    Last edited: May 31, 2016
  21. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    I did a sort of preliminary calibration of the axis except the extruder, but you are right, i should fine tune those numbers.
    regarding the extruder, it's a dual but one of the tits is not hooked up to the smoothieboard.
    my buddy is supposed to stop by one of these days and hook it up, then i can finally calibrate the whole unit.
     
  22. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    youtube link below:

     
  23. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    on a non technical note, she loves to sing, especially when doing circles.
     
  24. Tim N

    Tim N New
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    2 new prints...

    Simple vase:

    First few layers have blobs since filament fan was turned off intentionally. Subsequent layers were fine...
    Also need to get rid of the Z-scars....

    Trying 2-color printing, ooze barrier was too close to the actual print that put artifacts on the object:


    After some clean up:



     
  25. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    steve and tim, are you using a heated bed?
    if so, what is the wattage of the heating pad, or element?
     
  26. Tim N

    Tim N New
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    Hi Val,

    Yes, we are using a heated bed. It is 110V AC @ 1200W rating.
     
  27. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    replace the glass and heater with pir foam. add a bit of a raft to your part prior to printing.
    sink the extruder about 1 mm into the foam and print.
    you will forget there's such thing as warping.
     
  28. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    first thing first, credits go to the digital dentist for the tip:

    https://vimeo.com/66108108
    https://vimeo.com/66108107

    a few things about pir foam, or polyisocyanurate foam: one can usually buy it from building materials suppliers, comes in 4x8 sheets, sometimes 4x9. the usuall thicknesses are 1 inch and 1.5 inch. they come either foiled in paper (harder to peel off) or aluminum foil, easier to remove. price for a 4x8 sheet: around 20-25 bucks. bought mine from lowe's.
    i use 1 inch because i believe 1.5 to be a waste. the foam can be reused a few times, but since the majority of 3d printers are no bigger than 0.5x0.5 meters, one can cut many smaller sheets off a 4x8, so that's some of the best spent 20 bucks ever. besides, one can use the other foam face anytime.
    the foam can be used for pla, which is the material i used, but the digital dentist has successfully printed on abs. both materials stick to the foam like hell, as his video above shows. depending on the geometry of the printed part, you might wreck the foam while removing, but good thing a 4x8 sheet is plenty. also, leveling becomes kind of moot, seeing how the danger of the extruder hitting the printing surface is rendered null.
    regarding the printing itself: i tweaked the beginning code in slic3r to home x and y axes, then manually home z myself then, with the machine ready, i lower the extruder tip by no more than 2.5 mm into the foam and start printing. i use a 2 loop skirt to increase the contact surface of the printed part to the bed, but i recommend using a raft.

    try it, and experience the pleasure of not having to wait for the bed to heat up prior to printing.
     
    #118 Val Cocora, Jun 5, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  29. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    for some reason beyond my limited knowledge, i cannot seem to convince the machine to accept an all axis homing gcode, followed by the lowering of the extruder a few mm into the foam.
     
  30. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    there was absolutely no warping on any of the parts i printed, big or small.
    print a larger part, you will understand why it won't warp when you remove it from the bed.
    i think i figured out the gcode part. it is very important how much one sinks the tip of the extruder into the foam.
     

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