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Another Aluminium OX - Just started

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by sgspenceley, Dec 5, 2014.

  1. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    Mach is easy, if you have any questions just ask... I've used it for over 2 years now.. Only thing i've changed was the screenset to 2010.. Better layout by far !! Same with Cut 2d, I use Aspire so Cut 2D is easy for me.... Plus Vectric forums are great, very knowledgeable people there. :)
     
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  2. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    I'm leaning towards the smoothieboard also. I haven't found much in the way of actual builds though.
     
  3. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Well-Known
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    Well, I haven't even looked at Mach 3 for about 18 months after the original author retired and ceased to work on it anymore. Back then, and you can probably still see my comments on a few CNC forums about this, you HAD to have a LPT port and an XP machine running 32 bits or the timing (or some such) would not work. The main reason I told the old stoic Machinists to shove it (publicly) and I went to a more friendly modern setup with 3d printers. Glad it changed but from what I gather it is via plugins or some such so not native in Mach 3 but is native with Mach 4 that allows all sorts of modern communication setups and 64 bit.
     
  4. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Well-Known
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    Not much to it to be honest. You use a standard stepper driver that can handle the amps a NEMA 23 will require and wire it to the smoothieboard (you will have to solder). They are great over there and will help you with everything (I know of them in the #reprap irc channel and they told me just how easy it would be to set it up for a CNC router/mill). Cool thing about a smoothie is that if you set it up to handle a CNC router/mill you can use the exact same board/setup for both a router/mill AND a 3d printer just requires an A/B type box). I liked that idea.
     
  5. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    I started using it about that long ago, I remember alot of guys saying the same things about LPT port timing and lower power issues at the pins... Your right about the plugins, alot of control board makers moved to using the USB port so they developed plugins that let Mach 3 communicate through the USB. I use a ethernet smooth stepper board from Warp9, works good for me, I have them on both my machine. I like to run more modern and powerful PC's I still remember beating my head on a desk programming an old IBM XT I believe it was back in the day..

    Is the smoothie board just a control board and you add on drivers? I'd like to build a 3D printer when I get this CNC complete just don't know much about the electronics that control them...
     
  6. DarkAlchemist

    DarkAlchemist Well-Known
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    Smoothie has native drivers if you are just going to use Nema 17 motors it is ready to go it is just the bigger motors, with the heavier current requirements, it needs the drivers to be broken out.


    http://smoothieware.org/

    http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard

    As far as programming goes I go back to 1983 myself.
     
  7. Nick W

    Nick W Well-Known
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    DarkAlchemist, The big unknown for me with the smoothieboard is the software. What do you use? Is there something comparable to Mach3? A software option to perform a homing procedure? Manually control the motion? Like I said, a big unknown.
     
  8. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    While waiting for the next parts to arrive, I started to research electrical enclosures. Can anyone recommend a good source for reasonable price for metal box. If not I will make my own enclosure, because I own a small sheet metal folder.
    Below is a fun concept sketch.

    Ox-Electronics-Box.JPG
    Can any one offer suggestions or ideas. Did I miss anything?

    What is the "ideal" size?
     
    #68 sgspenceley, Jan 9, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
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  9. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    I go with Ebay, just search for Nema enclosure, should be a bunch on there... If you are using a gecko 540 and a power supply it shouldn't have to be very big at all. 10x10 maybe 12 x 12 for room for expansion maybe 6 inches deep.... If you make your own be sure to include a way to attach a filter to end intake air end. It's amazing how much fine dust accumulates inside these boxes...
     
    #69 Hytech2k, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  10. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    sgspenceley
    I seriously like the look of that concept case! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    If you carry on with the idea of making them, I would be interested in buying one.

    Perhaps, if many people get back to you with the sizes of their cases, port, fan and cable holes etc, and what they would have preferred or liked with their case, you may be able to produce the ideal driver/control board box!! :D
    Now that would be a niche market! :)
    Just a thought.

    Gray
     
  11. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Thank you for the tip on using the word Nema this narrowed down the ebay search very well but as yet I have not found anything which I like. Thank you for the tip on adding a way to mount filter, also the idea of using a spare piece channel as a heat sink.
    I refined the design more and decided the box should give correct tribute to open builds team, so built the proper logo.

    After looking at numerous standard enclosures, I'm going to go ahead and have the parts laser cut.
    Ox-Electronics-Box-3.JPG Ox-Electronics-Box-2.JPG Ox-Electronics-Box-4.JPG
    Thank you Gray, I would be happy to make another if your interested. I think many of us choose the open build solution because we like the look and engineering, so the electronic's box should have the same attention to detail.
     
    #71 sgspenceley, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  12. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Cooool! :thumbsup:
    I'll be looking at fitting 4 x Gecko Drivers. (Plus option for 5 drivers, for 4th Axis, plus socket.) 1 x USB control board. Power supply? :rolleyes:
    Plus all the usual bits and pieces.
    Do you anticipate using a separate sheet to mount the gear, like a motherboard, and then drop it in, and lock it into place?

    It has got to have obligatory LED's and lots of "flashing lights". :D

    Not immediately but in the next couple of months would be good. :thumbsup:

    Gray
     
  13. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Gray I missed the obligatory LED's only because I don't know how to wire them, YET!

    Have a think about the size you would like. My 3D model is built and is fully parametric, so very easy to modify and adjust to specific size.

    I was thinking about building it as 6 sheets which bolt or pop rivet together then it's less expensive to ship. Also thinking about a hinged lid Vs bolt down. I never thought about adding a separate sheet like a mother board, but it's a good idea for people like your self who are using separate drivers.
     
  14. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    The mounting plate is standard in alot of electric enclosures, it let you assemble and wire the components outside of cramped spaces, then just drop it all in as a package and just do the final wiring... Just use a few standoffs to give the board some clearance to the back. Very nice work, I might have to get a quote from you to scale it up for my larger machine, it's in need of a new box..
     
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  15. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Yeah. I was thinking more like a Christmas tree! :D:D

    Like the pop rivet idea. Hinge would be good. Small piano one would suit.
    Will have to hold fire for a while though, but will get back to you with sizes etc.
    As I say, I'll be using a USB Controller so will probably need a USB socket somewhere.

    How about making it with an option for the Module socket face plates now available. That way anyone can fit what they want socket wise
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-FEMA...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item460b2d4cfc

    Gray
     
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  16. 1972

    1972 New
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    Hi guys,

    I'm looking into enclosure options also, I'm not liking the prices I'm seeing from RS, Farnell etc.
    I saw the below enclosure which uses vslot for the sides on eBay a few weeks ago and liked it. Would match the router too!

    I priced up some aluminium to make the top/bottom and front/back for around £20 for a 300x300 enclosure, not bad if you fancy doing all the cutouts.

    I may make mine like this when the routers up and running as a first project.

    It was being sold by robocutters in the uk if anyone's interested - I'm not connected with them.

    Cheers,
    Chris

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #76 1972, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  17. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Very nice, great idea, thank you for posting Chris! This avoids the sheet metal bending which is hard to do for most people and this unit would be very, very strong.

    I was surprised how much a nema rated enclosure is, what shocked me even more was the price for shipping was often over $80.

    Hytech2K pointed me to another great heat sink idea, so I re-modeled to suit open build V-slot and to make the support feet cheaper to 3D printing.
    HeatSinkStandV2.JPG HeatSinkStand.JPG
    G530-WithHeatSink.JPG
    Ox-Electronics-Box-5.JPG

    I modeled the separate plate so it easy to drop in all the electronics as a single component, this was excellent idea.
     
  18. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Gray I like the idea of the pop in USB socket, I will see if I can find pop in DB9.
    Ox-Electronics-Box-6.JPG
     
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  19. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Thank you JustinTime well spotted, you saved me an oh **** moment...
    I was focused on creative design VS verse being practical. I added a few 4mm tabs to hold things in place.
    Ox-Electronics-Box-7.JPG
     
    #79 sgspenceley, Jan 11, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
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  20. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    My electronic's arrived this morning, very exciting... Quality of the parts kit is excellent from cncroutersparts.com
    This is not a cheap solution, but it is a good solution for builders not keen on wiring and buying from separate suppliers. I priced similar setups in Canada, and ordering direct from Gecko and could not save much money, plus having ready made cables was great.

    Very fast shipping when the order was placed. Ordered 9pm, shipped next day 9:30 and they undervalued package so customs surcharge was small.
    Nema23-StepperMotors.jpg GeckoRear.jpg Gecko.jpg PowerSupply.jpg GeckoWithMotor.jpg
     
    #80 sgspenceley, Jan 16, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
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  21. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Last night I was planning a trip to our local electronic's drop off point, to get rid of a 15+ years old stereo amplifier that cannot be repaired. Given the unit had no value I wondered if it had any heat sinks inside I could reuse.

    Wow, I found two large heat sinks and one small one... So these will be re-purposed in the electronics enclosure to keep things cool. I'm also thinking about re-purposing some of the chassis and just making new front & rear plates.
    HeatSinks.jpg
     
    #81 sgspenceley, Jan 17, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2015
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  22. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    A little more progress, I made stainless steel front plate for the enclosure.

    I'm always short of outlets, so decided to run full 20 amp circuit into the enclosure and then give access to some additional sockets for PC, monitor & router. Also decided to add additional DB9 sockets and hole for USB for future expansion or changes of heart! CNC-ElectronicsFrontPanel.jpg
     
    #82 sgspenceley, Jan 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
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  23. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    I noticed that a few builders added inner Y plates to re-inforce the wheel's. I liked the concept because I feel the 5mm bolts are a bit light weight for the job. Below is my versions made from stainless because it's very strong and rigid when only 1mm thick.
    InnerY-Plate.jpg

    I also made some new mild steel prototype corner plates to help hold the Y axis beams rigid.
    PhototypeCornerPlates.jpg

    The four bolts in theY axis & the 5 in the X really ties the corners together nice! Cheap & simple laser cut in 3mm mild steel...
    The two holes are for a bump stop and homing switches.
    IMG_0751.JPG
     
    #83 sgspenceley, Jan 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2015
  24. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    This morning I installed the inner Y plates. This really helps stiffen the structure so all the wheels and bearings work together.
    InnerPlate2.jpg
     
    #84 sgspenceley, Jan 23, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015
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  25. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    The inner stainless steel plates helped stiffen things up, but I could still see flex in the two cross beams. So I decided to disassemble again to drill and screw them together. I used normal 5mm cap head bolts, threaded into both beams.


    CrossRailDrilled.jpg

    I also made an aluminium base plate with tapped holes for hold downs. This also stiffened the base tieing the front and rear together
    BasePlate.jpg
    Cross drilling and bolting the beams together is really worth the effort.
    Z-AxisDetail.jpg

    Next weekend add the drive belts and hopefully get it to move.
     
  26. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    Looks great !! Love that aluminum base.... Those upgrade should help alot !!
     
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  27. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    Thank you hytech2k, it feels far more rigid now.

    This is very addictive, this one is not even finished and wish I had built it larger version. I'm really happy with the way it looks! It's been lots of fun, loads of thinking, planning and I already know what changes I would like to make... But first get it cutting parts!

    I'm really pleased I did not buy a finished machine or kit. The process has provided many hours of entertainment and personal satisfaction.

    My wife says it's time it went into the workshop, but it's -18deg C so workshop takes a long time to warm up. Lounge floor was far more cozy for the strip down and rebuild process.
     
    #87 sgspenceley, Jan 25, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
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  28. sgspenceley

    sgspenceley Veteran
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    It's alive and jogging on three axis with soft limit sets.
    What is still a mystery is the numbers shown in mach3 software don't represent real world units in metric or imperial. So I need to watch or read more about setting scale or calibration correctly :-}

    It is great to have movement, but not keen on the GT3 belt drive.
     
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  29. Dave Lowry

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    congrats! I have your model open right now. Looks good. Nice and big. How do you feel about the 750mmX beam? Does it feel pretty stiff? Have others gone that big do you know?
     
  30. Hytech2k

    Hytech2k Veteran
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    You can go in the settings in Mach 3 and there is a auto calibrate feature... Tell Mach how many units (inches or mm) to move then measure it and enter that in the next box. Viola calibrated... Start small and get those settings close then try going as long as your machine will allow, will make the steps per more accurate. Might take a few tries to get it dialed in just perfect.
     
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