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BlackBox

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by Mark Carew, Feb 22, 2019.

  1. sharmstr

    sharmstr OpenBuilds Team
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    The red light on the power supply should come on regardless of having the 24v side plugged into anything. So that tells me that the issue is with the powersupply not the BB. Double check your wiring. Make sure you have the side switch (110v - 220v) set correctly and use a multimeter to make sure you have 24v coming out of the supply. If not, adjust it.

    Once you have the power supply issue sorted, note that the 24v power LED on the two Blackboxes I've had my hands on didnt line up with the power icon on the case so it didnt look like the BB was as on. (pictures of this here: BlackBox)
     
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  2. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    Thanks Sharmstr! I will double check those when I get home tonight. The light that I'm getting to work is the power button light on the 24v power supply box. Wen I turn it on it lights up so I know I'm getting power to the box. I noticed in the build video that the openbuilds logo light didn't light up until the power supply connector was inserted. When I tried to plug the connector for the wiring to the blackbox nothing lit up.
     
  3. sharmstr

    sharmstr OpenBuilds Team
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    Full disclosure, I dont have the powercase on my power supply (bought mine before they were available, but I have two on the way). But according to the powercase build video, it lights up regardless. Go to 2:10

     
  4. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Correct, the Neon in the Switch lights up with Mains power, the Logo lights up when the PSU outputs power.
    So it not lighting, means PSU is "dead" which usually means the user forgot to set the country voltage slider (big yellow sticker shows where it is with the warning) - failing to do so can damage the PSU
     
  5. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    I thought I watched him put the connectors in and then the light came on, I guess not. Thanks for pointing that out. I will investigate more when I get home. Thanks again!
     
  6. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Maybe just editing (plugged in, turned on, but after edit to speed things up it might look continuous. Its on when the power is on, regardless of having something plugged in or not. Its just a LED and Resistor on the output terminals. Dumb as it can get
     
  7. sharmstr

    sharmstr OpenBuilds Team
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    There is a possibility of a bad LED (though I've never seen anyone report that), that's why I suggest that you read the voltage coming out.
     
  8. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    Are you referring to this big yellow sticker that I never looked at like a dumb ***? I really hope I didn't forget this step! I was so focused on the build video that I don't think I ever looked at this.
     

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  9. sharmstr

    sharmstr OpenBuilds Team
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    Yep. That's the one.

    For future reference, you should always check that AND always check power out voltage. Ask me how I know. :)
     
  10. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    Crap! Well ,I will update when I find out or should I just order another one now?
     
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  11. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Unless you are in a serious hurry, check first, maybe you forgot. Maybe you slide it to your correct voltage and it works (NB unplug any boards you want to keep like the Blackbox and check with a multimeter instead just in case it goes boom). Maybe it is working and the wire wasnt snug or you forgot to turn on the power strip lol. I guess what I am saying, i'd check first before buying another
     
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  12. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Yip that one :)

    Depending on where you are in the world, if it was set on 110v, and you live in the UK, ZA or somewhere where we have 240v - its the worser of the scenarios. If it was on 220-240v and you are in the US (110v) it usually survives

     
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  13. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    I'm in the US so hopefully it survived. I will check it out with the multimeter first before moving on. Thanks to you and Sharmstr for your help! Its much appreciated!
     
  14. jamin35008

    jamin35008 Well-Known
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    Got home and went right to the power box and sure enough it was on 225v. Switched it over, said a prayer, and fired it up......

    I got lights and fans! Just got to put it back together. Thanks all for the help!
     

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  15. smpdx

    smpdx New
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    Received my replacement BlackBox today and felt like a kid on Christmas! Assembled it, plugged it in to the WorkBee, double checked all my parameters and whaddaya know.. it works!! I’m stoked! All axis function and seeing the thing home in to the limiting switches was a thing of beauty. Easily impressed.. I know. Now comes the learning curve of CAM and gcode, but at least I now know the machine is working correctly. Thanks OpenBuilds Team!
     
  16. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    A Quick question:

    Does the Black Box system have any optical isolation, either in the USB port or between the controller and the stepper drivers?

    If not, how do you deal with ground loops?

    MG
     
  17. vze2pm3q

    vze2pm3q New
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    Can some help me in get my black box setup for an C-beam plate maker. I did notice I get an fault light on the side. I'm using nema 23 motor and the wire are connected in the right pairs. Any help would be greatly welcomed
     
  18. Skip S.

    Skip S. Well-Known
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    So I've got my Workbee built, up and axes are moving. Spindle is set and ready to be programmed..
    Let's talk limit switches.
    I can't get my machine to home properly - when I try to home it, Z runs up and starts clunking as it tries to go past the limit switch.
    By hand I can trigger all axes just fine but it seems like it doesn't receive the signal in time as the machine is homing.
    I'm not home at the moment but I can post my config settings when I get home.
    Any idea what might be going wrong?
     
  19. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    • Might seem obvious, but make sure your z axis is starting out below the switch
    • Switch might need adjustment. Make sure it actually triggers the switch before it hits the end stop
    • Make sure GRBL homing settings are correct. Homing enabled, homing pulloff = 1mm (depends on switch type), homing speeds around 100 for slow and 1000 for fast to start with. If it's too fast it may overshoot.
    • Make sure homing debounce is set to around 50 ms, not the 250ms default. Depends on what type of switch you have
    • Homing directions are set, if axis moves the wrong way toggle its homing direction bit. (00000ZYX)
    MG
     
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  20. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    By configuring the USB implementation as recommended by the Vendor (FTDI)
    Common Gnds elimates Gnd Loops
     
    #290 Peter Van Der Walt, Apr 29, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
  21. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Please contact the store on http://support.openbuilds.com/support/home
     
  22. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    1. If the Troubleshooting Tab shows all-is-well then the configuration to check is Homing Direction ($23)
    2. If its a "bundle" machine try one of the preconfigured profiles from the Grbl Settings tab (Will work great if you built/wired the machine exactly like shown in the relevant video on OpenBuilds® )
    3. Grbl Homing is explained in depth on gnea/grbl
     
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  23. sharmstr

    sharmstr OpenBuilds Team
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  24. Skip S.

    Skip S. Well-Known
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    Is the black box able to be connected to a VFD, and if so, where could I go to read about hooking it up to control the speed of the spindle through the VFD/black box combo?
    Thank you
     
  25. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    See BlackBox
     
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  26. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    sharmstr and Peter Van Der Walt like this.
  27. Skip S.

    Skip S. Well-Known
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    Perfect!! This is my exact model even!
    Many thanks!
     
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  28. Sean Griffiths

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    I am having trouble with the on board relay. It is not responding to M3/M5 commands, even though the jumper is set correctly. However, if I set the jumper to M8/M9 it responds to those commands.

    any ideas?

    The other issue I am having is the controller disconnects itself from the PC [OP Control software] upon starting the spindle/vfd. Sometimes it works fine for a while, other times if disconnects immediately. The serial console says something along the lines of "a change was detected... port closed". [Sorry i'm away from home, and going off memory.]
    the usb port is then no longer usable. I have to used another usb socket, or restart.

    any suggestions appreciated.
     
  29. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    - You sure you are sending the right commands? (M3 S1000 not just M3...) (Or use the Tool On Button in OpenBuilds CONTROL)
    - Is there anything else hooked up to the PWM output pins on the Toolhead connector (Jumper for m3/m5 connects the transistor that triggers the relay, to the PWM output pin - having something else also connected could affect it)
    - You are not in Laser Mode perhaps ($32=0) else the PWM pin only responds to G1 Moves


    VFD:
    VFDs put out an incredible amount of EMI Interference compared to routers. Shielded cable between VFD and Spindle, Metallic enclosure around the VFD Inverter, and some Ferrite Clip-on filters on all USB/Signal/Mains cables will help make your environment a little more EMI friendly.
     
  30. Sean Griffiths

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    I double checked the jumper and tried the Tool On button as well as typing commands. The only Toolhead outputs I’m using are the GND & 0-10V. I have unconnected the DIR for the time being.

    I will install the shielding to the spindle cable tonight. I have some ferrite filters somewhere so I’ll put them in too. I will report back...
     

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