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WorkBee CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Ryan Lock, Sep 21, 2017.

  1. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @Metalguru I can export them in STL if you want?
     
  2. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Not sure that's going to help. STL would be OK for viewing, but if I want to edit it I think I would be out of luck. Don't suppose you could save it as .3DS or .DAE?

    MG
     
  3. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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  4. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Yeah, I've been looking at it but I have a lot of time and effort invested in Sketchup at this point. Not sure I want to start all over again with a new program. Will it save an .SKP file?

    MG
     
  5. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    No, you have to save it as an STL to open in Sketchup:D;) Oh, wait...we just went over that a couple posts above.

    What I do really like about Fusion 360 is the ability to put and SVG graphics file on your part and extrude it. I could not get Sketchup to do that. That may be my lack of knowledge though.
     
  6. artfuturo

    artfuturo New
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    Hi guys, I finally got my table finished. It took a moment to build it, longer than I had planned, but I am glad I took the time and built something solid that will last.

    008.jpeg IMG_20180222_164254.jpg IMG_20180222_163817.jpg

    The next stage is now to build the router.
     
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  7. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    That looks great!
     
  8. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Whats the hole in the middle for?

    MG
     
  9. artfuturo

    artfuturo New
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    Openbuild routers like the Workbee dont have that much Z
    The Workbee doesn't have the greatest Z-range which is ok if you consider what you pay for it. However, as I will be milling panels and engraving medium sized wooden blocks, I thought it would help to have a partially lowered section in my table to gain some height. The hole is 78mm deep (60mm box section and 18mm plywood). To enable this trick, I will remove my spoil board and place the larger work item onto the lower section. To adjust things so that I am within the Z-range of my Workbee, I will make a number or spacer boards that I can place under the work items. Further, I will place T-tracks along the edge of the hole so that I can firmly hold down my items. Key to this, the router has to be firmly attached to the table, otherwise the router will start dancing up and down.

    For really big items, I could technically remove the bottom plywood section (8 screws only) and put items through the table and find a way to securely attached them. Now that is a topic for another day as I already spent some time thinking about that but haven't found a simple and satisfying solution yet.

    Hope that all makes sense :).
     
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  10. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @Metalguru I am afraid i can't export them formats. STL looks to be to the only one that word half work for you.

    @artfuturo Great looking table! Love the idea of the lowered.

    Ryan
     
  11. sebcbien

    sebcbien New
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    Hello,
    First post here :)
    I'm considering buying a workbee 1000/1000.
    I have little space in my workshop and a solution for me would be to store the workbee on the ceiling when I do not use it (above the car).
    I would make a wood torsion-box of + - 15cm thick to put the Workbee on it.
    Then I have a winch and pulleys and will tie the four corners of the cables.
    Has anyone already realized this type of solution, do you have a contrary opinion, recommendations?
    Is the workbee "self sufficient" or it's better to attach it to the table for more stiffness ?
    Is storing vertically against a wall a better solution ?
    Thanks a lot !
    Seb :D
     
  12. CNCKitCompany

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    @artfuturo That is a very nice looking table! Well done. Is that some dust collection for the Workbee I see under the left side of the table?

    Hi @sebcbien , welcome for the forum. The OpenBuilds C-channel, which the WorkBee uses for the side rails, is really strong. Have a stiff table underneath is good practice, but isn't strictly needed. In one of the threads of conversation there was talk of just supporting the Workbee at the ends. I've not seen any pictures or stories of someone doing this yet, however it is feasible.
     
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  13. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @sebcbien Welcome to the forum. I haven't seen it with the WorkBee yet, but i have seen one of our OX kits held up vertically on a folding table. So i am sure what you plan is possible with some thought. The Workbee doesn't need to be fixed to the table, but it does help alot.

    Ryan
     
  14. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Having the machine suspended by cables would be a very poor situation. It will flop around like a fish out of water when running because of the acceleration of the gantry.

    Having the machine bolted down is a must in any kind of suspended situation. You don't want the thing falling on your car...

    I would recommend either a rolling bench that you could just roll out of the way when not using it, or a wall mounted table. Wall mounting is a bit difficult because of the height of the Z axis, but it's do-able.

    Or, you could just give up parking in the garage and have a proper shop... (I haven't parked in my garage for 25 years...)

    MG
     
  15. sebcbien

    sebcbien New
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    Hi, thanks everyone for your advice..
    Here is my shop...



    My car is almost always outside, but during the winter, when there is ice and snow, with the kids, at 6h30 am... well I prefer it inside than having to defrost the car for 15 minutes ;-)
    As you can see, my shop is already well "stuffed", even the miter saw bench is designed to have the nose of the car fit under the table ;-)
    All other workbench, Table saw, router, Tools cart are already on wheels.
    I will not use the CNC hanged of course, it will be on top of one of my existing workbench when in use.
    I already have the winch, it was for a heavy roof tent, but I do not have it anymore.
    So it's more a question of rigidity and staying square, even when not put on an heavy workbench.
    But you answered my question, if it can be wall mounted, it's rigid enough.
     
    #285 sebcbien, Feb 27, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2018
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  16. CNCKitCompany

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    That is a nice looking workshop. If only we could make the WorkBee collapse nicely into some Systainers, like you have under your bench, then it would be easily portable and could be stored.
     
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  17. cabalist

    cabalist New
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    Hey there! Finally found the time to put together my 1000mm x1000mm screw kit. :) Really enjoying it so far!

    Ran into this though:
    lock_nut_grub.png

    The grub nut for one of the lock collars didn't have any threads! Where is the best place to get a replacement quick in the US?

    (Of course I find this Friday evening...)
     
  18. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    I've used an M5 low profile 6mm screw in a pinch... The low profile head will clear the inside of the c-beam.

    MG
     
  19. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I am lucky. The Hobby King USA distribution warehouse is located about 5 miles away. I can get all things metric overnight by selecting the "pick up at warehouse" option. This works great for small quantities. However, you can't get the low profile screws OpenBuilds sells and I prefer. An option that is available to most people in an urban area in the U.S. may be Fastenal. Socket Set Screws | Fastenal

    Now if only OpenBuilds had a distribution warehouse next door to me...
     
  20. cabalist

    cabalist New
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    Hmmm... I am in Portland and Hobby King's west coast warehouse is just a few miles away. As are a bunch of Fastenals. Thanks for the tip on both of these! Sadly neither open until Monday morning so I am just going to sit on my hands until then.
     
  21. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Most True Value hardware stores (as well as many other decent "real" hardware stores have a reasonable screw collection, including set screws. You may also be able to find what you need at Lowe's.
     
  22. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Also, Tacoma Screw (which also sounds like a drink that would mess you up) has a great selection. I only know of the Columbia Blvd location, but I drive by it all the time. But, being in an industrial area, it is probably closed on weekends. Since you are in Portland, check out Clackamas Steel. They have the best prices (at least that I have found) for aluminum and other metals.
     
  23. cabalist

    cabalist New
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    Hah. You are answering questions I had been mulling. I was looking to get some steel beams for a nice heavy workbench. The Clackamas Steel referral is great! Thanks.
     
  24. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @cabalist Sorry about the faulty part! If you still need a replacement send an email to [email protected], and we can get it shipped express over to you. You will probably have it by the end of the week.

    Ryan
     
  25. Yellers

    Yellers New
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    Slowly but surely getting there, absolutely loving putting this together. It's my first CNC so I am taking my time and learning each step of the way. Instructions are so easy to follow, I zealously pushed on a few times and had to redo things but all my fault.

    I will hopefully be able to post a video in the next week or two of its first steps. Thanks to Ryan and all the Ooznest people for releasing such an excellent product.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @Yellers Glad you are liking the machine. We really would love to see a video!

    Ryan
     
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  27. Jim.....

    Jim..... New
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    Evening all,
    Very newbie here but having so much fun with our new Workbee. I seem to have a problem with the finished work lately in having a lot of leftover strings. Is this the wood (Oak) or a blunt bit maybe?
    Much appreciate any advice, R0005445.JPG
    Thank you.
     
  28. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Jim:

    Could be several things. Dull bit, feed speed not right, router speed not right. There are a lot of variables that only lots of practice will get you the answers to. It may be the type of wood as well, oak is notorious for splintering.

    What type of bit are you using? Looks like at least some of it was a flat nose bit. A spiral downcut bit will make cuts with a downward shearing action that eliminates the fuzz on the edges, and although not usually recommended for inside cuts, yours are shallow enough that it may be OK. I have never seen a downcut ball nose, however, if that's what you are using.

    Get yourself one of these:

    [​IMG]

    It's called a sanding mop. Available at lots of woodworking stores. It will get rid of all those fuzzy edges easily without destroying all the detail in your carvings. Get one with a fairly fine grit, 120 and up. You run it in your drill press, at the highest speed setting it has. Be gentle.

    MG
     
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  29. Jim.....

    Jim..... New
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    Metalguru,
    Thank you very much for this. I have never seen such a sander but will add one to my kit. There is a lot to learn but will get there. I was using a 1/16th ball nose but have been using it a lot so maybe it is dulling.
    Best,
    Jim.
     
  30. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Veteran
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    @Jim..... Thanks for the pic! What you could try is leaving a 0.1mm allowance around the edge. And then doing a final job to take off the 0.1mm and the fuzzy bits with it.

    Ryan
     

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