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7050 Sphinx

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Michael.M, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Hey thank you. So here is a link to the limit sensors I bought plus a breakout board. I really like the idea of these things because there are no mechanical parts to wear out. He says I can also encapsulate the sensor and the magnet and will not hinder their performance. I saw a post on inventables where a guy with a Shapeoko used them.

    Creltek Limit Sensor 343RT by Kevin H. Patterson on Tindie
     
  2. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I've already bent a couple of my limit switch arms on accident plus the mating surface usually ends up with chips and sawdust caked on so who knows how repeatable my current setup is.
     
  3. patdee

    patdee New
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    The new wheel covers look awesome Michael.

    I wish to do it also. So keep us posted.

    Take care dear friend,

    p.
     
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  4. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Thanks Pat! I'm really enjoying working with this HDPE. It's a blast.
     
  5. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I got some new Ebay items to play with too Ball ball end, 1/16" flat and some 90 degree engraving bits. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. patdee

    patdee New
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    I have a question.

    After I studied every photo, it looks like there is a "gap" between the end plates (HDPE) that would let chips get under the cover defeating your purpose.

    Can you give us some details of why that gap is there?

    Thanks Michael.
     
  7. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    The covers slip over the wheel bolts but those bolts also need room for adjustment of the eccentric spacers. These are also a fairly loose fit so they can be adjusted up and down a little. From what I have observed, very little chips will actually make it through that gap. Yeah there will be some and I will have to to remove the covers and clean occasionally but they will reduce a significant amount of dust / chips. For the most part I saw the chips shoot up at an agnle, hit the gantry plate and fall on top of the wheels. I knew I needed to leave a little room for eccentric adjustment so I think I left a 2mm gap. If anything, I can mill an HDPE strip for the bottom.
     
  8. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    The end caps are fairly loose fit too and can be adjusted up and down a little.
     
  9. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Future plan is to implement linear rails somehow but I haven't figured it out yet DSCN1321.JPG
     
  10. patdee

    patdee New
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    Makes sense.

    I am wondering; that IF a narrow length of adhesive felt insulation, like goes around doors, would seal the gap completely; yet still allow adjustments of the eccentric nuts.

    Thanks for the response Michael.

    p.
     
  11. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Yeah actually that would probably work very well. Plus I wouldn't be rubbing two pieces of aluminum together. Great idea Pat, thank you.
     
  12. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    That piece of aluminum in my last post is for some long strips to cover the side of the Y axis Cbeams. They seem to really load up with chips and they don't come clean completely with the vacuum.
     
  13. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I'm really just trying to "tighten up" my machine so I don't have to worry about all these other factors when running a job
     
  14. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Maybe a couple of toothbrush heads may have made good wipers? :rolleyes:
     
  15. patdee

    patdee New
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    That is interesting GrayUk.

    Dust is one of THE most elusive problems in wood and metal working scenarios. It is a headache for most all of us. I have felt for many years that the answer MUST come from the manufacturers. Sadly, for hundreds of years they did little to alleviate this aggravating problem; not to mention the danger it causes to us humans.

    But of late that seems to be changing. What with CE (UK) and OSHA (USA) breathing down the noses of manufacturers; it has resulted in some very good improvements when it comes to dust collection.

    One of the greatest I have seen on CNC machines; is the latest improvement on "Legacy CNC machines", when it comes to dust collection. For the dust "hood" encases the entire spindle; with the bottom brushes redesigned; and the 4" hose attaches to the top of the spindle. Yet it has windows that open for changing bits and seeing what is being cut, etc. There is very little dust (if any) that is not collected AT the source using this latest addition. Check it out on the following link beginning at the 1:28 time mark; and again at 6:05:



    Also, DIY innovators have tackled this and come up with some great ideas. Check them out on YouTube.
     
    #135 patdee, Dec 8, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
  16. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Yeah the wheel covers are mostly a WIP but I just didn't want to go the route of attaching a piece of plastic the length of the y axis. Currently they will keep the material from falling down on the wheels and they will plow shaving out of their way in the vslot grooves.
     
  17. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Limit sensors arrived today, a day early!! Very nice little setup. 12ft cables pre-crimped with RJ45 connectors for the breakout board. The neodymium magnets are in the steel tube. DSCN1322.JPG DSCN1323.JPG DSCN1324.JPG DSCN1325.JPG
     
  18. patdee

    patdee New
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    Hi Michael,

    Could you please give me the exact lengths of your "X" and "Z" C-Beams.

    Thanks,

    p.
     
  19. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Sure no problem Pat. My X axis cbeam is 503mm and my Z axis is 270mm. The original Sphinx plans call for a 250mm cbeam for the Z but really this can vary and I have seen people go all the way up to 350mm even though I don't think it's necessary. I just decided to make mine a little taller just in case.
     
  20. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    As long as your spindle & bit can completely clear your workspace you should be good. Are you using a router?
     
  21. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Oh pat in case you're wondering why the X axis is 503mm and not 500mm is because each side of the gantry has a 1.5mm gap to allow for movement.
     
  22. patdee

    patdee New
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    Michael,

    Thanks a lot for all the information. I kind of felt that 1.5 mm "gap" was the reason. And yes I will use your dimension on the "Z" length. Also, I am probably going to start with a router that I do not use any more. It is a Porter Cable 3.25 HP that has little use since I got it..

    Later I am sure I will go with the spindle type. Very possibly like the one you are using.

    For whatever it's worth, I am not going to use "Stepper" motors on the "X" and "Y" axis. They will be "Clear Path" servos; that will be controlled by a "Centroid Acorn" controller card. Thus, no external drivers are needed. I will use one 48V PS for all motors. That results in a big saving in cost and labor to install all of these un-needed devices. I am at this moment still pondering whether to use a CP servo on the "Z" axis; because of the following caveat:

    When these servos are without power applied, they are as free as a breeze to turn; which is fine on "X" and "Y". But the "Z" router or spindle will fall immediately to its bottom depth any time the CP loses power. This could be dangerous and/or aggravating.

    There is a "Brake" option that stops that; but I know NOTHING about them. So I may start with the stepper motor temporarily; and then when I am more acquainted with the "Brake" option I will switch to the CP.

    Thanks again for your speedy responses dear friend,

    May Jesus bless you for being so kind,

    p.
     
    #142 patdee, Dec 9, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2017
  23. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Working on mounting brackets for the sensors. I'm really excited about this because there is no need for physical contact between the sensor and the magnet. I just need to make sure I orient the magnet in the right direction. I can basically enclose the whole thing. They do have status LEDs so in the future I would like to replace the plastic caps with acrylic or something. DSCN1329.JPG DSCN1331.JPG DSCN1339.JPG DSCN1340.JPG DSCN1342.JPG DSCN1344.JPG DSCN1345.JPG
     
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  24. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    These sensor brackets span 80mm across the cbeams and bolt right through the vslot. i'm currently trying to figure out a solution for the magnets. They're actually really strong!
     
  25. SCYBUCK

    SCYBUCK New
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    Hey, Michael M. Been a while since I looked in on your progress. My Sphinx is getting closer, especially since I will be retiring from my 8 hour a day slave job in January! I do have a suggestion for cooling water for your spindle. Utilize plain old tap water. Pipe your house cold water over to your machine. Have a ball valve as an isolation/on/off valve and a diaphragm valve that you preset for flow control. Pressure rated tubing to the spindle. Pipe the used water over to a sink or outside. Not exactly a GREEN solution, but you never have to worry about the reliability of a pump or the reservoir water getting too hot!
     
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  26. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    That's a good idea. If or when my res pump dies, I could definitely rig something up! Thanks.
     
  27. SCYBUCK

    SCYBUCK New
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    Michael, I am curious about your system voltages. Mr. Patterson's Creltek web page says that the operating voltage for the sensor is 3 to 6 VDC. Did you have to work with him to get a slightly customized configuration?
     
  28. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Yes I spoke with him prior to ordering the setup. The sensors operate at 3 to 6 VDC but he offers different arrangements for the breakout board. I went with the one that operates on 12 VDC and will be utilizing an extra cable from the control PC's PSU.
     
  29. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    I thought tap water was a bad idea due to the potential for rusting the spindle.
     
  30. SCYBUCK

    SCYBUCK New
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    Excellent point of concern, doctor! I will investigate and comment back.
     

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