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OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Will do for sure :D btw guys we also added some example default grbl settings to the OpenBuilds machines in each of the builds that should help guys building them.
     
    David the swarfer likes this.
  2. Twenty7designs

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    Not sure what to do I just finished my build a couple weeks ago, ran great for a while now x axis is stuck. It just shimmys/vibrates then shuts off. I've reprogrammed the xprov3 messed with settings, and when off I can move the motor by hang smoothly.
     

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  3. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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  4. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    so the X carriage moves smoothly when power is off?

    "messed with settings" is horrifying (-: what exactly did you do? did you go back to the original working settings?

    if you connect that motor to the Z driver, does it then move ok?
    if so, then your X driver is probably dead.
     
  5. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    What current/amps should each motor have for the OX build ?

    I have the
    - NEMA 23, peak current = 2.8A/Phase motor (NEMA 23 Stepper Motor)
    - xPRO V3 Stepper, "Drive 4 motors with DRV8825 Stepper Drivers - 2.5A (peak) with 1.75A (RMS) with up to 1/32 microstepping" (CNC xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver)
    - 24V powersupply. (24V /14.6A Meanwell Power Supply)

    Meassuring (and Im a newbie at electronics, so that might be where the fault is :)) I get that I can adjust from 0.8 to 1.6 amps to each motor.
    Where is the normal sweet spot ? Default mine was set to 0.9 amps.

    The reason Im doing this is I have alot of chatter when doing circles,round stuff, where both axis has to move together, and read somewhere to make sure that the Y motors got the same current.

    EDIT: Just tried with 1.2 amps to each motor and so far the machine is running alot better. Will do more tests!


    Thanks in advance
     
    #3395 Bjorn Mikkelsen, Sep 17, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2017
  6. robertfontaine

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    I'm sure it's been asked before but I haven't found it yet. Is the OX rigid enough for a 1.5kw chinese spindle? Will I need to strengthen the frame?

    I'm looking to prototype with some aluminum the 2.2 and 3kw units make short work of aluminum but the weight and torque are too much for these aluminum framed machines (I think).
    The Makita or Dewalt c611 look to be a little bit light for machining shallow aluminum enclosures.

    Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Robert
     
  7. magpern

    magpern New
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    Hi, I just started my ox cnc build project/journey. Ordered most of the pieces, pcs by pcs...
    But I haven't ordered the V-slots yet, so question: The "spoil board" mod, where the spoiler board is closer to the z-axis, is there any practical reason to have this mod, except for getting closer to the z-axis?
    It's a few dollars cheaper and lighter (postage) to go with the lower version.
    I have virtually no experience with cnc machines, today I own a "toy" Chinese cnc :)
     
  8. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    It's not specifically necessary. If you look through the builds about half do, half don't.
     
  9. Critical

    Critical New
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    Hi guys.

    I've just finished assembling my very first CNC machine, I researched for around 10 months and of course settled on the OX. I'm nothing further than a hobbiest, and having never built one before, I decided that the best start for me would be to buy a kit and take it from there, rather than trying to fabricate my own.

    To that end, I settled on;

    - OX CNC Mechanical Kit, 750mm x 1000mm (Kit) OozNest
    - xPRO V3 Stepper, "Drive 4 motors with DRV8825 Stepper Drivers - 2.5A (peak) with 1.75A (RMS) with up to 1/32 microstepping" (CNC xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver) OozNest
    - Nema 23 Stepper Motor 1.9Nm 2.8A 4-wires 6.35mm (NEMA 23 Stepper Motor) eBay
    - DC12V 201W 16.5A Switching Power Supply (12v/16.5A Power Supply) eBay

    I've built the kit, added the motors, wired in 6 limit switches (3 sets of parallel), adjusted the eccentrics so everything feels nice and rigid without being too tight, I've found the sweet spot for current to the motors and run a bit of g-code, everything looks and sounds sweet.

    Next obvious step is to add a spoil board and cut some material, but I can't seem to work out exactly how I tell the machine where ZERO is for each axis. This got me to thinking that there must be some calibration/setup I need to go through in the software, so I had a poke about and my god are there a lot of things that I have no idea about! Steep learning curve inbound!

    Quick question - Is a 12v PSU substantial enough? I thought so, but after reading Bjorn's post [#3401], I'm thinking I've missed something critical!

    Anyway, glad to be on board, thought I'd just take the time to say what a sweet bit of kit this is and I very much look forwards to finding out what it's capable of once I know how to use it!
     
  10. Chainyank

    Chainyank New
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    HELLO, I am working hard to get my OX cnc from Ooznest finished, but I am stuck at the UGS setup. I have followed all the steps in the manual up to 5.2.2 and began the test to jog the motors. At this stage I got no response from the OX motors. I restarted everything and when I reopened UGS I got the message that no serial port was found. Now I am stuck and cannot get UGS to recognize the serial port. Any ideas? I am running this on a Mac laptop with Seirra 10.12.6.

    I'm completely stuck at this one step now and happy for any advice on how to proceed!
     

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  11. magpern

    magpern New
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    I am about to build a OX machine myself. I'm waiting for all parts to arrive. I decided to try and source all part the cheapest way possible, hence the long delay for all parts. I found one kit with four nema23 3.0A steppers and DQ542MA drivers, the kit came with two 36V 350W psu (link to kit).I don't know it that is overkill, but it is quite a big difference to yours 12V 201W psu
     
  12. Critical

    Critical New
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    That's a beast! I imagine because you're also powering stepper drivers, that you'll need the extra power, where my router is a Bosch GFK600, and independently powered, so I'm really only powering the XPro v3 and 4x Nema 23's.

    That being said, I splashed out on a 24v PSU, so I can wind it down to 23v -/+ to be sure
     
  13. lens

    lens New
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    hallo ... this is my first post and my english use google translation.
    when i pocket toolpath inside the corner looks rounded like the picture below.
    I use mach3, "stop cv on angles" I tried to set 80, 70 and 45 degreee the result still looks like that, where is my mistake?
    4.jpg
     

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  14. Tinkerman92

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    Perhaps this has been asked before but what is the max speed this build could run using 2a nema 23's? Would like to get a cutting speed of 175ipm
     
  15. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Volunteer
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    maybe 174.3...

    No seriously it all depends on what you are cutting and with what bit and the RPM.. that's a rather fast cut speed (feed rate), where did you come up with that feed?
     
  16. Tinkerman92

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    Cutspeed of 10 gauge mild steel with a Hypertherm Powermax 45 at 45amps. More curious if the motor,pulley,belt combination in this particular build is capable of that speed safely
     
  17. TassieDevil

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    Hi Mark, I purchased a OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine large (From Maker Store in Australia) with the Arduino(Compatible) UNO R3 with usb cable and the cnc shield with with 4 x A4988 stepper drivers and heat sinks. as well as the Maker Store NEMA23 stepper motors. OK built it and the machine works through input via UGCSender on all axis and returns home great.but it i try to run a small example program it goes Insane
    Now i Have to experiment with ugs settings for it to function correctly . Is there a list of settings with this machine that will make it work when finished. i have adhered to
    the design that you built on line that is used as a example. copy of what i currently have on machine.

    any advise will be welcome Pete from Tasmania.


    $0=10 (step pulse, usec)

    $1=25 (step idle delay, msec)

    $2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)

    $3=0(dir port invert mask:00000110)

    $4=0 (step enable invert, bool)

    $5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)

    $6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)

    $10=3 (status report mask:00000011)

    $11=0.010 (junction deviation, mm)

    $12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)

    $13=0 (report inches, bool)

    $20=0 (soft limits, bool)

    $21=0 (hard limits, bool)

    $22=1 (homing cycle, bool)

    $23=3 (homing dir invert mask:00000001)

    $24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)

    $25=1000.000 (homing seek, mm/min)

    $26=250 (homing debounce, msec)

    $27=5.000 (homing pull-off, mm)

    $100=200 (x, step/mm)

    $101=200 (y, step/mm)

    $102=200 (z, step/mm)

    $110=1500 (x max rate, mm/min)

    $111=1500 (y max rate, mm/min)

    $112=1000.000 (z max rate, mm/min)

    $120=20.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)

    $121=20.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)

    $122=20.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)

    $130=600.000 (x max travel, mm)

    $131=760.000 (y max travel, mm)

    $132=52.000 (z max travel, mm)


    $H = HOME

    $X= UNLOCK
     
  18. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Volunteer
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    hi Tassie, you have to calibrate our steps per mm and make sure everything is going the correct way first.
    what size pulleys and what micro step are you using? also I assume you are using the TR8*8 screw for the z?
     
  19. TassieDevil

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    Hi Gary,
    in answer to your questions. all axis operate in the correct directions
    Z screw = 1 300mm 8mm Metric Lead Screw / ACME
    Pulleys = 3x GT3 Aluminum Timing Pulley – 20
    as to micro step i have not set up anything i believe.
    in essence i just assembled the ox as per instructions and Marks Carew's Video and expected to function like his did
    I should point out i am a 66 year old "Newbie" so any help is welcome

    cheers pete
     
  20. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso OpenBuilds Volunteer
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    Hi Pete,
    No problem we all start out as Newbies!
    The Drivers you have are full step without doing anything, so that means you have 200 steps per Turn of the motor (typical of stepper motors we use).
    The settings $100 through $102 are steps per mm. To calculate the needed number you need to know how far the motor makes the axis move per turn.
    Lets start with the Z, in your case an "8mm acme" is a 4 start, 2mm pitch screw, which has a lead of 8mm, that means all 4 screw threads are 2mm each and each full turn will more the nut 8mm (4x2=8).
    so the value for $102=25 (200 steps / 8mm)
    BUT, with Full steps you will probably have rough and noisy movement and poor resolution (especially on the belts)
    So if you do 1/4 micro-steps you can use $102=100 because you will have 4x the number of steps per turn of the motor.
    On X and Y ($100 and $101) you want even more micro-steps because with the big 20 tooth pulley you will have (20x3mm) 60mm! of travel for each full turn of the motor.
    So if you go with 1/8th micro step you will have (8x200) 1600 steps per turn, and then you can figure 1600steps / 60mm = 26.66...steps per turn, $100=26.66 and $101=26.66 (this can be adjusted to calibrate the travel to make it more accurate, for example 26.70 might be better or 26.554... to achieve accurate travel using a ruler and measuring the actual travel.
    As for how to change the drivers micro-step setting, i believe on your cnc shield you will find M0,M1,M2 pin sets under the driver boards. adding jumpers to M0's two pins and M2 two pins will set it for 1/8 and just across M1 will give 1/4 micro-steps (if you have all three jumpers on it would be 1/16th micro-step).
    Another very important detail will be adjusting the current potentiometer on each driver, there are many guides written on line about doing this for these drivers.
    I didn't plan on making this so long, I could have linked a guide somewhere but I started typing and before I knew it... here I was!
    Cheers
    Gary
     
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  21. TassieDevil

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    Gday Gary, Well That's a Lot of information i was unaware of. I will let it soak in why i try to study up on it.

    However, i went straight to the shield and looked beneath the driver just unused pins see jpegs below
    so there is no micro stepping at this time,
    So What would you advise 1/8 1/4 or 1/16 if i understand it the greater the steps the smoother the machine travels.
    if i understand it to change it to 1/16 i have to connect all the pins as shown in the last photo but only the ones beneath the stepper drivers . on my machine i have also cloned y axis

    hope you understand above

    thanks again pete
     

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  22. JustinTime

    JustinTime Veteran
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    Pete, like most things, there is a give and take scenario with the micro stepping. Since this is a milling/routing machine, and not a 3d printer, 1/8 steps is the most you want to go. Better yet, 1/4 steps. Google the stepping, there is a LOT of info on the pro and con of higher stepping.
     
  23. DanijelHribar

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    Hi to all. I'm new here but have been looking at this build for a long time. I'm interested in one thing. I plan to use this machine as engraver but not for engraving flat surface. By that said, machine should have some king of sensor to constantly read distance between blade and material. We want to use it for engraving some pictures/text on motorcycle motor parts. It would be very cool for custom build :) Can it be done? Thank you very much and best regards, Danijel.
     
  24. Serge E.

    Serge E. Journeyman
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    Often done in two passes with some software having surface probing. First pass is to 'read' surface at a specified number of points (the more the merrier, but longer the process will be). Then the software remaps the g-code to 'level' unto the scanned surface ... A process often done to engrave on PCB where a limited number of scan points is used to determine the 'flatness' of PCB - more like angle of board relative to the engraver's plane.

    EDIT : example of above = Auto Probing With G-Code Ripper

    An other approach seen is to define the surface in some CAD software which then maps the 'engraving' unto the surface before the g-code is generated. This could be done with SketchUP Make (not necessarely obvious or easy) and Fusion 360 (not any easier if you ask me) for possibly 'free', not counting your time. Vectric VCarve or Aspire, 2nd is expensive at nearly 2k$, seems to make it much easier. But not as versatile since the surface might need to be defined with an actual CAD program. However, the text CAN be changed quite easely compared to doing it all in the CAD program.

    Best approach would probably be a combination of all of the above. First probe the actual surface to be milled in as much details as possible (maximum number of points to get good representation of the surface). Second use the mesh of points to create your surface in a CAD program. Refine the surface within the CAD program. Third use something like a Vectric software, Aspire being most versatile, to map the text OR drawing onto the simulated surface. Fine tune things running its simulation... Finally, generate the g-code off Vectric and run the job on your machine. Fingers crossed your surface scan and zero are dead on !

    NOTE: I've never done the above, so your mileage WILL vary. The links supplied are not necessarely the best examples. They're what I quickly found Googling the 'Net. There are better examples, I'm certain, and probably much more recent examples. But this should get you going.

    Have fun ...
     
    #3414 Serge E., Jan 9, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
  25. PaulM82

    PaulM82 New
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    Hi, I've started building an ox from a kit, and I'm having some trouble with the x-axis linear motion. Firstly, it's quite tight, even with the eccentrics adjusted out, but it still moves. If I give it a flick, it comes to a stop straight away, as opposed to the y-axis, which glides a little before stopping.

    But I think this tightness is leading to a bigger problem. If I leave the x-axis alone for 20 minutes, then try to move it, it is "bogged down" in the position it was left in, and I have to force it out. Then, when I move it around, it "clunks" every wheel rotation. After some movement, and maybe manually turning each wheel while holding the plates, the problem goes away. What I think is happening, is the tightness is squashing the wheels down, causing an indentation, which causes the clunking.

    When I look at the wheels, they do have a slight indentation around where the "v" starts going down on the v-slot.

    This also happens with a single 20x60 installed, and when that single 20x60 is on the front or back. It also happens when the x/z assembly is off the machine and lying down, so it's not the weight of the assembly.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
     
  26. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Yes, you've got it way too tight. Don't know which set of drawings you cut your plates from but the 8.0 version had the axle holes a bit too tight together. The easiest solution is to drill out the non-eccentric holes slightly to give yourself a bit more room.

    The thumping and flat spots on the wheels are due the compressible nature of the acetal wheels and is especially pronounced when there is excessive pressure. Polycarbonate wheels were brought into use to resolve this issue.
     
  27. PaulM82

    PaulM82 New
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    Thanks Rick. I read the previous comments about plate versions, and I measured my plates with some calipers. They appear to be correct, according to the drawings, and the numbers you've quoted previously - 85.8685mm between outside edges.

    Is there anything else you think could be wrong?
     
  28. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Your V-slot could also be slightly oversized. Same with your wheels. Where did you order them from?
     
  29. PaulM82

    PaulM82 New
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    I just went through an took a heap of measurements, comparing with the model. Everything looks ok... the wheels, v-slot, plates, holes, bolts... I can't measure too accurately though, and I'm not sure of the width/angles of the V in the v-slot and wheels.

    The only measurement that didn't match was from the outside of the top wheels to the outside of the bottom wheels,when assembled. The model says 104.954mm, where I measure about 104mm.

    So, I re-assembled it, with the bolts only just nipped up, and now the v-slot slides fairly well. However, the wheels still thump after being left for 10 minutes! Argh! So, I think these wheels are just too soft...

    I might proceed with the build, trying to keep it loose, and maybe upgrade the wheels later on. Before every use, I might just need to manually work the flat spots out...
     
  30. PaulM82

    PaulM82 New
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