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Sphinx XL/R7

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Hisha, Jun 18, 2017.

  1. James1949

    James1949 New
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    When I printed pictures out, I printed same picture twice. I stand corrected.
    Information is hard to find since screen print on board is Adruino generic. I don't like the plugin drivers, hard to cool and hard to keep heat sink from being nocked off.:)
     
  2. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    @James1949 Sorry I should have given the source of the image files I used. I gave both because when you are using V0.9+(which V1.1f is current) they had switched pin 11 and 12 so 12 is now the Z limit switch connection and 11 is a PWM pin for variable spindle control. Since I am using a Bosch Colt router which currently is stock, so I have only the onboard dial for speed control and an on/off switch, I have added a solid state relay to control an outlet that my router is plugged into( and hopefully soon my shopvac!). So I need the old functionallity of spindle enable/disable verses variable spindle PWM control, so I opened the config.h file of GRBL and searched for this line "#define VARIABLE_SPINDLE // Default enabled. Comment to disable." which on github is showing as line 339. If you comment it out by putting two slashes in front of it (//), save the file and then upload GRBL which will compile with that change to your Arduino, it will now cause your V1.1f Arduino to be pinned to the V0.8 pinnout. So I now use pin 12 for spindle enable/disable and pin 11 for Z limit switch.
     
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  3. James1949

    James1949 New
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    :) Thanks again.
     
  4. James1949

    James1949 New
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  5. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Made a "few" clamps today out of a 2' x 2' piece of birch plywood. I uploaded them as a project you can find here. I also picked up the parts I need to make a cheap dust collector out of a 5 gallon bucket and a phono plug and socket to wire up my touch off plate. Just need to cut out two circles from the other plywood piece I picked up to support the top of the bucket where I plumb in the 2" PVC pipe, another project for my new router!!

     
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  6. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    So I used the router to cut out four circles for the dust collector, just to have a spare set. I should have went a little bit bigger for the holes for the 2" pipe but the file worked it out.Cemented two pieces of wood to the top with Liquid Nails and then drove in a few screws. I then cut the 2" PVC pipe and glued the adapters in place and added more Liquid Nails to fill the gaps. Just waiting for it to dry and then I might be able to test it tonight if not tomorrow. Still need to wire up my touch off plate but that's a later project, also need to start on a dust shoe.

    20170701_133757.jpg 20170701_133805.jpg 20170701_134844.jpg 20170701_140824.jpg 20170701_140850.jpg 20170703_160910.jpg 20170703_160916.jpg 20170703_160921.jpg
     
    #36 Hisha, Jul 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2017
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  7. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    After dealing with computer issues and a few days where I didn't even get to step foot in my garage, this morning I got up early and decided I need to to make more sawdust!! I finished putting everything together for the dust collection and it works great! Have a couple new bits on the way like this and this, along with some magnets and 1/2" sheet of HDPE. I'm planing on using the HDPE to make my new dust shoe and cut it out with the O-flute bit, going to put the router on 1 and hope for the best.

    This morning's project is going to be used as the cupcake display for my wedding. My wife is a huge Ohio State football fan and so me being from Maryland originally, I decided to make a football field with the team nicknames in the end zone to have our big cupcake on and then the smaller cupcakes will be setup on some bleachers that I also have to make. I think it came out really well, but feel like I should cut the yard lines out with a 1/4" bit instead of a 1/8" bit. The plan is to paint the words and lines white and then the field green, my friend told me of a great idea to paint the white first a few coats, then fill them in with play-doh so I can paint the field green. A lot easier I think then the ideas I had.

    20170708_093520.jpg 20170708_093538.jpg 20170708_094849.jpg 20170708_095853.jpg 20170708_101412.jpg 20170708_101431.jpg 20170708_101439.jpg
     
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  8. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Came home to a shipment of the HDPE, so after cooking some dinner I started making the dust shoe. Freecad path was kicking my butt for a while till I figured out that I needed to move my piece down buy the height of the stock. I'm still learning the path section of Freecad with all the options and settings, so needless to say some of the parts came out a bit wrong, though it will be useable. I really need to find a good collection of programs to go from design to actual part in Linux, so far Inkscape to Makercam has allowed me to make my cleanest parts. To finish this dust shoe I need to pick up some CA glue on the way home tomorrow.

    20170710_205853.jpg 20170710_205859.jpg 20170710_223945.jpg 20170710_223953.jpg 20170710_224000.jpg
     
  9. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Nice, I really need to do something similar on my plate maker. (dust shoe) chips get everywhere ! lol I think I will mark that down as the my first cnc project once I finish unpacking my machines.

    I also run 98% linux ( only have a windows machine for Fusion and some software stacks I can not replace in Linux yet ) I have been using @Peter Van Der Walt 's Laserweb4 for a while now. Here is the github link. ( Looks like I need to update my install hahaha.)

    My work flow for all my flat work cad / cam has been Inkscape > laserweb4 and it has been working well for both my laser and plate maker.
    for electronics I have been using Kicad and Flatcam. For Plasma I have SheetCam TNG installed. Now I just have to build a plasma, so I can use it lol I also have librecad and draftsight installed but find I use inkscape to knock things out more often. If you do not mind running software via Wine. I have also been happy with Sketchup > SketchuCam.. Was a little fiddly getting Sketchup 2016 to fully work under wine but once I had it setup Sketchucam works quite well. You can also run older versions of sketchup with sketchucam on linux via Wine with a lot less setup problems.
     
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  10. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Finished up the dust shoe after picking up some glue. Hopefully tomorrow I can rig up something to hold the hose up out of the way. Then I can put on the new spoilboard and should be ready to get back to making wood chips.

    20170712_173717.jpg 20170712_173724.jpg 20170712_202337.jpg 20170712_202347.jpg 20170712_202409.jpg 20170712_202423.jpg 20170712_202525.jpg
     
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  11. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Well the dust shoe didn't pass it's first test. It seems I didn't take in consideration about where it sits below the router in relation to where the collet nut is, so while the upper part is mounted I can't get my wrench onto the spindle to hold it while working the collet nut. So off it came, will have to start working on another design soon.

    In my quest to find what works for me for design to cam to gcode, I have tried a bunch of different things and still am not completely happy. That being said I tried and think I can live with doing lettering work with F-Engrave. It seems to be easy to work with and the image import to v-carve function makes me think of some very cool cut ideas. As for Sketchup/Sketchucam, I've had nothing but headaches with Sketchup. It wants to spawn 1 million wine browsers some of the times I open it, and it either spins forever or just plain crashes when I try to add the Sketchucam plugin. I know these are neither Sketchup or Sketchucam's faults, I am trying to run it on something they aren't designed for. So I'm currently using Freecad to design in and since I can't seem to figure out why the path section makes the gcode change the size of my part I am saving my freecad work into a DXF file and opening that up in Estlcam.

    Below is some pictures of the F-Engrave word testing I was doing.

    20170714_172503.jpg 20170714_172512.jpg 20170714_174808.jpg 20170714_174813.jpg 20170714_175044.jpg 20170714_175327.jpg 20170714_175331.jpg 20170714_180649.jpg 20170714_180954.jpg 20170714_181001.jpg 20170714_181404.jpg 20170714_181415.jpg

    This is a picture of the test piece I'm working on to mount the 7" raspberry pi touch screen into the photobooth setup I'm making for my wedding.

    20170716_104111.jpg
     
  12. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    After a quick trip to Lowes for a 1/2" pine board, I present a completed piece to hold the touchscreen. I still have to decide if I'm going to build the whole thing out of pine or something else, but for this cut I am happy with the cut.

    20170716_135436.jpg 20170716_135603.jpg 20170716_135622.jpg 20170716_141212.jpg 20170716_141233.jpg
     
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  13. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    So today I was playing a bit more with F-Engrave, this time with the image side of the program. Basically you open a black and white line drawing of something that is in bmp format, then tell it to calculate and out pops your gcode. After it cut and I then added some black spray paint and some sanding.

    20170717_170652.jpg 20170717_174518.jpg 20170717_191110.jpg 20170717_191119.jpg 20170717_191124.jpg

     
  14. shelbylewis

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    Very Nice, Hisha! I'm considering building a very similar machine to yours... have you found the 1000 x 1000 machine to be sturdy and precise/accurate? I'm going to use mine for some instrument-making pursuits. Being that I'm working in wood, not metal, the tolerance need to be tight, but not machinist level. I'm interested whether you've seen noticeable flex and/or inaccuracy in the machine. I'd assume not. Thanks a ton for sharing.
     
  15. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    @shelbylewis I have to say I find this design very sturdy. I need to stop being lazy and surface my spoilboard, that will fix my only inaccuracy. I have been a bit rough with my cuts a few times as I documented with the collet break video, and this machine handled it all with ease.

    So for my up coming wedding I am starting to work on a design for a few groomsmen boxes. It's going to be using 1"x8"x2' boards of oak from Lowes. For a test and possibly to sell later, I designed a smaller box that I can cut everything out of one board. The first attempt didn't go exactly to plan. I started a little to far down the board and the last cut was in the air as it cut into 2 of my clamps.

    20170722_165012.jpg 20170722_165022.jpg 20170722_174056.jpg 20170722_174103.jpg 20170723_094101.jpg 20170723_094110.jpg 20170723_094118.jpg

    I've redesigned my cut file to move the bigger pieces into the middle so I have more room for my clamps. I will also be trying the test of flipping the board after the cutouts to do some vcarving for more decorations.
     
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  16. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    The other night I was looking on Pinterest and came across a few cool things that I would like to make. While on there, the future wife saw something that she thought would be great for a host gift for her bridal shower. It's a three tier wine bottle holder that is shaped like an over-sized wine bottle. I picked up a 1/2" x 2' x 2' piece of oak plywood from Lowes and designed a cut file that will cut everything out in one go. I did have to do some manual gcode work because I screwed up when working in Estlcam, it seemed that I didn't pay attention to the fact that when I added the "WINE" lettering it was set to 1mm DOC. So I copied the gcode doing the lettering and added it multiple times changing the DOC down to 12.7mm. I also manually combined 2 different gcode files so I only have to open one file to cut everything.

    20170725_184030.jpg 20170725_184112.jpg 20170725_195804.jpg 20170725_204002.jpg 20170725_204008.jpg 20170725_212403.jpg 20170725_212410.jpg 20170725_212415.jpg 20170725_212426.jpg
     
  17. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Great to see the production of simple projects. It shows the teething problems and mistakes we all make during our first endeavors. :(
    So please don't forget to tell us where things didn't go to plan. :rolleyes:
    Plus, the success of the finished item makes it all worth while, and spurs us on to greater things. :D
    Good job. Well done. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    Gray
     
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  18. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    So I have been slacking on posting here....but not of making wood chips and broken clamps!!! This will just be a picture fest, hope you guys enjoy.

    20170729_124121.jpg 20170729_175059.jpg 20170805_090255.jpg 20170805_120359.jpg 20170805_160608.jpg 20170805_165208.jpg 20170805_170107.jpg 20170805_170339.jpg 20170807_181525.jpg 20170807_204843.jpg 20170809_181045.jpg 20170809_202215.jpg 20170809_202324.jpg 20170809_202342.jpg
     
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  19. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    So, did you chew through your clamps? :rolleyes:
    Could have been worse, they could have been metal!! :banghead:
    Good Work :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    Gray
     
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  20. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Yes I have a few clamps that are now an inch or so shorter than when they started. You can see that I lost clamping completely on one side in the picture of the no worries no hurries sign. Thankfully I was right there when it happened and I just finished the cut with me holding it down with my hands. I believe I am going to stay with the plywood clamps and avoid metal, I like my bits to much for that!!
     
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  21. mikework

    mikework New
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    Very nice build. I have been following it closely as inspiration for my build.

    If I may ask a quick question, before I cut my side plates for my gantry, how are you supporting the wire track?

    I see from your pictures there is a rail under the track...but I can not figure out how that rail attaches at either end to the supporting plates?
     
  22. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    On the left side viewing from the front of the machine I have a corner bracket that uses one of the holes that is threaded for a possible stepper mount. Hopefully this picture below will show it better.

    20170820_074804.jpg

    As for the other side I am using a three hole joining plate
    one end sits in the c channel and against the side plate and the other end sits under the rail that the wire track is sitting on. Hopefully you can see that in this picture.

    20170820_074825.jpg

    I hope that helps for what you are asking for, if not let me know and hopefully I can help some more.
     
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  23. mikework

    mikework New
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    Got it. Thank you!
     
  24. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    Just wanted to post some pictures of what I've been working on lately.
    20170824_182624.jpg 20170826_120111.jpg 20170827_080610.jpg 20170827_130339.jpg 20170828_210051.jpg
     
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  25. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Good Stuff:thumbsup::thumbsup:
    Gray
     
  26. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team

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    These would be perfect in the new Projects tab. Lots of folks would love to see this great work!
     
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  27. Hisha

    Hisha Well-Known
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    So some more pictures...

    20170903_132340.jpg 20170905_165049.jpg 20170905_174301.jpg 20170905_174304.jpg 20170905_181444.jpg 20170909_123818.jpg 20170911_215741.jpg

    @Kyo I've been thinking lately that I would love to get a bit more out of the Z axis. I saw this Thread and had a different idea I would like to run by you. The plates at the front and the back of the Y axis I could mount to 2 runs of 20x40 per plate since that is what the holes seem to line up with and then on the bottom they would attach to the original bottom frame with angle brackets. The 20x40 would be on the outside of the plate, so I wouldn't have to modify my current spoilboard, but would give me room to make a larger one. Then I could use some 20x80 and angle brackets to tie the Y axis runs to the sides of the bottom frame. I'm just wondering if that will be sturdy enough. I'm currently and probably 98% of the time will always just be doing wood work.
     

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