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C-Beam cnc

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Kyo, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Thanks for the heads up. Parts list updated to show new B.O.M.
     
  2. Chris_W

    Chris_W New
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    This is a possibility. Digging further (baring in mind this will be my first build) I am starting to look into the OX, I can get it as a kit here in the UK for £670 excluding the controller and router (motors included).
    The Sphinx was coming in at just under double this some how... I think I will have to look at Aliexpress, as it looks to me like the Sphinx is getting a lot more cutting space out of the floor space.

    Thanks
     
  3. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Do OX guys ship to states or have a retailer ?
     
  4. matt_o_70

    matt_o_70 New
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    Hi Kyo - I would like to know more about your GRBL / Estlcam controller. I really like Estlcam and have run into problems with TinyG / Chilipeppr when trying to run rather large G-Code files. I would like to get away from chillipeppr / web browser as control software interface. Are you selling your boards someplace?
     
  5. James_Hopkins

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    Kyo-

    Can you do a video on your work flow from making a simple part or plate to cutting it out and the programs you use?
    I have been using Inkscape then putting that into makercam.com to get my gcode, Then on the C-Beam i have im using bCNC.
    everything works good but im always looking for better ways to do things.

    I used to design in sketchup then use sketchucam for gcode then put that into bCNC but its sometimes hard to import other files into sketchup. It was giving me all sorts of problems.

    Thanks
     
  6. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @James_Hopkins
    Sure, It might be a few weeks out. Still waiting on the last few parts to arrive from my ebay order to wrap up my Plate Maker rebuild.. I bounce around on software a lot depending on complexity of the project and what I need to do. My main work flow tends to be Sketchup > Sketchucam > Camotics > Bcnc.. What format is giving you trouble with sketchup? I also use Freecad as a first stop to get files into a sketchup friendly format if I don't have the right plugin.
     
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  7. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Kyo. can you please reconform the cut list for me ?
    C-Beam
    20x80 C-Beam 1 250mm
    20x80 C-Beam 1 500mm
    20x80 C-Beam 1 500mm
    20x80 C-Beam 1 503mm
    Lead Screws
    Tr8*8-2p 1 290mm
    Tr8*8-2p 1 530mm
    Tr8*8-2p 1 530mm
    Tr8*8-2p 1 530mm


    The items in bold, , do they sell in that length or I have to cut them ? Thanks
     
  8. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    That is correct, The x-axis c-beam can be a even 500mm as well but then the y-axis rails would be inset from the base frame 1.5mm each side as they will move inward to make up the difference.

    No real need to cut down the lead screws unless you want to. They come in over the marked length a 250 is really 290mm and a 500 is really 540mm ect.
     
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  9. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Thank you . I have a miter saw but not a metal saw and will go buy a metal cutting blade (non ferrous). Hopefully that should do it
     
  10. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    That should work perfectly, I have been using this Diablo non ferrous blade "Here" to make my aluminium cuts. Cuts like butter and leaves a very nice surface finish.
     
  11. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    Sounds good. I found same blade for my 7 1/4 miter. I also asked openbuilds and they agreed to cut a couple of pieces for me :)
     
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  12. Jorge Monteiro

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    I'm starting my Sphinx build. I'm going to assemble a large Sphinx, it will be 1000mm by 750mm, already got all the parts and will start my build this weekend.

    I need to give a quick thanks to Chris Laidlaw for the Sphinx plates, amazing plates and extremely fast shipping, thank you Chris, you rock :)

    Of course, Kyo needs to be thanked too, he got me to choose his CNC versus all the others :) Thanks to his amazing design, the great instructions manual and the awesome build video I decided for the Sphinx. Thank you Kyo.

    Of course, I still have a few questions... :)

    1) Is the Sphinx good enough to mill aluminium? If so, can I use a Makita RT0701C router to cut it or should I upgrade to a 1.5Kw spindle (water cooled)?
    Now some questions for Kyo:
    2) Do you have the models for the 3D printed cable chain holders in this video?
    3) How about the cable chain dimensions? Or even better a link where I can purchase them :)
    4) Do you think that cable chain is large enough to pass the water cooled tubes?

    Thanks,
    Jorge
     
  13. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Hi Jorge,
    sorry for the slow response it has been a very busy work week. Awesome :thumbsup: I look forward to seeing your build.

    You should be able to cut aluminium on a Sphinx build. Just make sure to watch your feeds / speeds. I have not used a Makita but do use a Dewalt 611 to cut 6061 plate on my Plate maker.. Yeah I am sure I have the stl files for the cable chain mounts on my home pc. I will check and post back latter tonight.

    I used 15x30mm Cable chain "Here" If you are going to also need room to run water cooling lines you may want to upgrade to a larger size with removable top links Like this chain "Here" it will make running the lines / cables a lot easier then fishing them through the whole cable chain one at a time.
     
  14. Jorge Monteiro

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    Thank you for your reply, I will be looking forward for the stl models so I can print the cable chain mount, just added your cable chain to my Amazon shopping list :)

    Anyway, if I put the water cooling tubes it will be on a single axis, right? Or will I need it on both axis?

    Regarding the larger cable chain, do you think this one would also work? I mean, I know it is a wider (77mm vs 57mm) but I'm wondering if the tops are also removable, it does not say on the description... it is on the same Amazon page of the one you used and it has much better reviews than the one you linked. That page also has the 25x57mm cable but no stock :(

    The last question I'm facing is regarding the Makita vs 1.5kw spindle, do you think it is worth it at all? I mean, it is going to up my cost by around $400, so if it is not much better I rather wait.

    And thanks for the build :)
     
  15. ashish B

    ashish B New
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    I think the regular routers are noisy because they are aircooled (from what I learned with lots of reading) and speed can not be controlled from board. I would be interested in learning more myself. I am planning to go with an 800W spindle myself. Found this nice video which talks about some differences.
     
    #315 ashish B, Mar 17, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  16. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    I have the Makita and I cut aluminum just fine. The Makita is quiet, especially at 10,000 rpms when I am cutting wood. I cannot hear it over the vacuum system. Here is a video of the Makita 701c cutting 1/8 inch aluminum plates for my eggbot.
     
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  17. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    @Jorge Monteiro
    Here are the stl files to mount the 15x30mm cable chain I used in the original build. I spent some time going over the reviews on the chain you linked and the photos. It does appear to have the ability to open the chain and would make a good choice. How much of the cable chain you run your wiring / water tubing in depends mostly on where and how you have your electronics / water pump mounted.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Jorge Monteiro

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    Thank you.
     
  19. Jorge Monteiro

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    Here are some pictures of my Sphinx, not done yet since I screwed up with a few parts due my my motors having 8mm shaft instead of 1/4 inch :( My motors are Nema 23 425oz but the shaft is wider.

    The sphinx is 1000mm x 750mm and the table is 1500mm x 780mm:


    And here is a picture with the motor on the Z axis. I already placed an order for "3GT (GT2-3M) Timing Pulley - 20 Tooth - 9mm Belt - 8mm Clamp Bore" but I still need to buy 3 x flexible coupling of 8mm x 8mm, which are not available on openbuilds part store :(

    Anyone knows where I can buy good ones? Most I've seen do not seem to be good at all.


    Another picture with the other 3 motors, the 4 drivers and 2 power supplies:


    Thanks Giarc for the video. I hope I can cut aluminium soon :)
     
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  20. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Looking good Jorge that is going to be a nice size machine. :thumbsup: They have some love joy style couplers with a 8mm x 8mm connection "Here"..
     
  21. Jorge Monteiro

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    Thanks, ended up buying 3 of these on Amazon last night. They should fit, right?
     
    #321 Jorge Monteiro, Mar 19, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  22. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    Those should work just fine. :thumbsup:
     
  23. Jorge Monteiro

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    Quick question, I guess I cut mt base table Y about 1mm short and they do not fit properly :(. So, now there is 1mm gap on my Y axis when I try to attach them to the base table, is this a big problem? If so, any way I can solve without disassembling the side bars? Maybe some wide washers or something like that?

    Here is the picture:
    IMG_2541.JPG

    It looks the same on both sides but it will be hard to take out just one millimeter from the side bars. But my guess is that I might have to cut them 1mm...
     
  24. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    A couple of ways to deal with the gap.
    -Trim up the Y-axis cbeam rails so everything is square and even.
    -Shim the gap
    -Adjust the base frame to even out / take up the gap

    Trimming the rail to match would be my first approach. If worried about cutting such a small amount from the rails and not wanting to disassemble further I would shim it. This way everything remains solidly mounted and you no longer have a gap. I find beverage can shells are a great place to get 0.1mm thick shim stock that is very easy to cut with good old craft scissors by hand. Cut off the top and bottom roll out the stock, draw out the profile to be cut and cut it out and stack them up how ever thick you need to take up the gap. :thumbsup:
     
    #324 Kyo, Mar 27, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
  25. Jorge Monteiro

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    How how can I adjust the base frame? By moving the angle corner connectors?
     
  26. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    yeah, you can loosen the corner connectors and move the 20x60 vlost rail out the 1mm to meet the plate and tighten it back up. There will still be a 1mm total gap but it will be on the base frame under the spoiler board and not on the y-axis.
     
  27. Jorge Monteiro

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    This worked really well, thanks :) I just realized I need to open one of the Y axis again to insert more nuts for the cable chain 3d printed parts, oh well, I was not expecting building a Sphinx CNC to be an easy task, but it is a lot of fun :)
     
  28. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    I hate to have to come back and bother you guys over here in the main thread, but there is something that isn't adding up. The LEDs on my DQ542MA stays red when dormant, but goes green when in use. This is both while running a program or simply jogging. Is this normal? Nothing appears to be "wrong". The manual states that a red light indicates a short, error, or voltage issue, but I know that my power (24v) and stepper wiring is correct. The only thing that may cause an issue is the enable voltage. Enable is about 3.8v if I remember correctly.

    I'm using a Phoenix with GRBL Panel.
     
  29. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    No worries we are all here to build and learn. Peter's thread "Here" covers this a bit towards the end of the thread. Basically If everything is working as it should when moving manually or via gcode. Green light when moving (no alarm / enabled / active) and red light when not moving ( alarm / disabled / inactive ) everything is working fine. By default grbl disables the stepper when stopped after a set amount of time (milliseconds) If you want to have the drivers always enabled and not rewire anything setting $1=255 should do the trick, green light will always be on drivers will not disable after each movement.
     
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  30. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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    ! Complete Plate Set !

    I get asked this often, what plate set to buy when building a Sphinx cnc? I see a number of sets have popped up for sale online (even on aliexpress) I do not know the quality or fitment of each set being offered online please research who is offering them ! The Plate set I recommend is from Chris ( blue-ox ) and is the same set as used on the original build.

    Link to recommended plate set "Here"
     

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