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Routy CNC Router (V-Slot Belt & Pinion)

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. Ceiling Cat

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    That was fast! It was the motors that I used. A friend of mine happened to have 4 stepper motors at work that he gave to me and they don't all match. This made sense at the time to just get started since the store was out of stock. 2 steppers are 0.9 degree steps where the other 2 are 1.8 degree steps. The 2 on my X and Z axis are both 0.9 degree steps so mystery solved. When I doubled the step/mm on the X from 40 to 80 it works like a top and the X is now drawing 100mm lines.

    Once I corrected that I layed down a 64 segment circle and drew it. The machine preformed much smoother than last night by a long shot and you can't even tell the circle is segmented by looking at it. However you can hear that it is segmented as the machine is drawing it ;). There is still that starting and stopping but it is less jerky than before. Not the smooth motion that I would have expected, but in all honesty I wouldn't be able to tell the difference by looking at it so I'm ok with it grunting through circles and arcs a little.

    The real funny thing was the curves for the text sounded great when it was drawing those even with wonky settings. The 'O' was a very fluid motion unlike the circle. I'll have to take apart the G-code maybe that can tell me why.
     
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  2. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    awesome
    I cannot recall what controller you are using but have a look and see if it supports G64 mode.
    G64 P0.25 (mm mode) really smoothed out my friends hot wire cutter.
    G64 mode tells the controller to maintain speed through segment joints rather than being **** about stopping at the exact co-ordinates.
    Sketchucam has the option of always inserting G61, but doesn't yet have the option of inserting G64.
    However, if you remove G61 from the gcode, and either insert G64 or give it in manualmode before starting the file you might see a difference.

    also note that Sketchucam has 2 ways of dealing with arcs. If the arc is complete, it will output actual Gcode circle segments. if the arc has been edited in a way that 'exploded' it, the Gcode will be a series of line segments.
    incidentally exploded the curves in 'phlatbones' before doing the inside and outside cut lines is a good idea.
    arc segments will have an 'Rxxx' term in each line, line segments will not.
     
  3. Ceiling Cat

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    I am using the grbl controller version 3.5. I grabbed the source code my version is using and also the 3.51 version to have a look and G64 is not supported unfortunately. :(

    I guess SketchUCam exploded my circle because I didn't see any Rxxx terms in any of the generated gcode of sketchUCam when drawing the circle in sketchup (I did not scale it or use a transform in any way). I do not know how to make a complete arc with sketchup beside just using the circle tool. When you say complete arc I'm assuming you mean a circle. A few questions came to mind as I was writing this:

    Is there any sort of tutorial on phlatboyz SketchUCam and what all the buttons do etc? I still don't understand what the majority of controls do, for instance, I still have no idea what a phlatbone is or what it is used for.

    I need to learn more about these gcodes. Does anyone know of a good site that explains in detail each one?

    David, what controller is your friend using?
     
  4. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    also a segment of a circle, but not edited after creation.
    link to video tutorials
    http://www.phlatforum.com/xenforo/threads/quick-phlatscript-intro-video.1137/
    also, you can read the help (big blue question mark icon on sketchucam toolbar) which will explain what each tool does.

    my one friend has a RJ-1325 with a RZNC501 controller. The router is 1.3 by 2.5 meters, 3kw air cooled, vacuum table.
    my other friend built a wire cutter and is using LinuxCNC to control it. I wrote software to cut wing cores which you can find in the resources
     
  5. Ceiling Cat

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    David, Thanks for all the info will have plenty of reading to do now.

    I'm getting ready for my first cut and I will be cutting foam first to test out the gcode and then acrylic. Do you guys have any recommendations for a dremel drill bit that cuts acrylic nicely? Something that doesn't melt it and gum it all up.

    The thought never occurred to me until I started planning to cut something real but how are you guys clamping down your work pieces to the bed of your CNC's? There doesn't seem to be any good spots to use a clamp or such.

    I had a look at it today, going to hold off on buying software until I know for sure this is something I want to invest a lot into. I don't want to use it quite yet because I'm afraid I will spoil myself with it and not want to go back :)
     
  6. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    Acrylic is harder than wood. I use a 2 flute solid carbide 1/4" bit. At first I cut some foam but it sucked. Then I did wood and it looked great. Next I milled my spoilboard flat and that went well. Now I'm milling acrylic and I hold it down with double-sided tape. I'm finding that some belts need tightening, screws need tightening, etc when I cut the acrylic. It isn't melting at 10,000 rpm but it takes a lot of torque to move at the feed rate I'm using (200mm/min).

    EDIT: Shortly after writing this I went out to check on my piece and the tape had come loose and the part was ruined. Now I'm drilling holes in the material and screwing it down to the spoil board.
     
    #306 The Dude, Mar 7, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014
  7. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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  8. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    Funny, my feedrate is set to 500mm/min(20ipm) and my cut depth is 1mm(0.04in). They suggest 0.003"(0.0762mm). I think my leadscrew pitch is wrong so it was cutting half that amount(0.02in) but that's still way too much, I guess. I did notice it jerking around as the gantry flexed. Maybe I'll fix the leadscrew pitch and try again at a much smaller cut depth.
     
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  9. Ceiling Cat

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    Let me know how that goes for you. I would be very interested in the settings you used for acrylic if your planning on cutting that. I had a look at the chart but I'm sure I have calculated something incorrectly. I was going to make a metric version of that chart that kram posted but some of the math is wonky trying to sort it out now.
     
  10. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Not quite sure how to interpret this chart. It's not likely that any of us have a machine that will travel 600-1200 feet per minute or am I misunderstanding SFM? And if dividing that rate by 50 does that mean we can increase the depth of cut 50x?
     
  11. Ceiling Cat

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    In case you don't have a network connection attached close to your mill like me, I created a little xls file with Krams info in it. There are 2 sheets one for imperial (Direct copy of sites info) and one for a metric conversions of the imperial chart.
     

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  12. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Ceiling Cat and Rick 2.0 like this.
  13. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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  14. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Welcome :)
     
  15. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    It's working with 200mm/min, 20% plunge rate, 0.0762mm cut depth. This is 1/2" plexiglass, so it's probably the "plastic with glass" type listed in the chart. The cuts are wicked clean, edges sharp, and there's a lot smaller chips coming off which can go airbourne.
     
  16. Ceiling Cat

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    Very nice, thanks for the info. Glad to hear you have had good success with those settings. When the time comes I will use them, hopefully this weekend. I'm still trying to fashion myself a holder for my Dremel tool. I first tried to use zip ties to hold the dremel to cut some leftover MDF to make some brackets to hold it in place. After that failed, I decided just to let the machine draw it and I will cut it out with the dremel. My hands work better than zip ties any day of the week and even in the mornings.

    I have the same tool that Forest has and I downloaded his designs. Had to make a slight modification though because my machine is certainly not a standard one. (I went by the parts list :D). I ended up with a piece of 20x80 and not 20x40 on the Z to mount the spindle/tool so I took the liberty of modifying your design a little Forest. I also increased the thickness of the holder a little. I was worried about the MDF not holding up so its thicker now. The holder should buy me enough time to make a better one later... I hope. Attaching the skp file as well if anyone needs/wants it.
     

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  17. Ceiling Cat

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    Better brackets just arrived :thumbsup:. Anyone cut 3/4 in MDF before? If so what were your settings. Settings on todays cut were the acrylic settings The Dude posted. My god it was slow... 3 hours about. Wife banned me from ever using it in the house again.
     

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  18. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Well done @Ceiling Cat
    What step down are you using per cut pass? If you have a nice sharp bit and shallow cuts (1/64) you should be able to cut MDF pretty fast. I would say 30-40 ipm maybe more. Try some experimenting and see how you make out.
     
  19. Ceiling Cat

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    The cut depth was set to 0.0762mm same as @The Dude suggested for acrylic. Since it was my first real cut wasn't sure what to expect so I set it low. I was also using the same feed settings of 200 mm/min. What is the worst that can happen if I push the machine too fast and or too deep with depth of cuts for the material I am using? I looked in the speeds and feed charts but didn't see anything listed for wood products or MDF.
     
  20. Ceiling Cat

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  21. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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  22. Ceiling Cat

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    Thanks @JustinTime gives me a good idea of how I will hook it up to the machine I have here. Thanks for giving me a preview of what I'll be getting myself into. Much appreciated.
     
  23. Ceiling Cat

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    Just a quick one for anyone mounting a dremel tool. I found a better way to mount it and lock it down super tight. Home Depot or Lowes carries Conduit Pipe Straps 1 1/2 inch clamp worked wonderfully on my machine. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...be-EMT-2-Hole-Straps-25-Pack-61615B/202241092 you can get them in a single package of 2. The gantry will break before that tool moves now, its not budging moving anymore.

    Keep in mind I have 20x80 where you mount the tool and it works well for me. For those of you using 20x40 take care you may need to construct some sort of adapter plate so it will fit nicely.

    Cheers
     

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  24. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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  25. Forrest DIetrich

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    @Ceiling Cat,
    Yes, makes sense ... I already got some of these to use when I upgrade my Routy to an Ox ... it is the way recommended for that build. I need to work a bit more on using Routy to accurately machine plates for OX, when I get back home in a few weeks from Beijing. Been recearching best way to build good bet for this set-up ... considering 80/20 10 series so I can use 1/4" bolts, clamps, etc.
     
  26. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    Haha, yeah with wood try 800mm/min and cut depth of 1mm. Acrylic is "special" like aluminum, brass, etc. You could try 0.5mm for really clean edges. I think I've run pine through mine at 1400mm/min with ratty edges. One time I had the axis reversed and so it plunged the bit into the wood at top speed(1500mm/min) to a depth of about 25cm. Scared the bajeesus out of me but no harm befell my routy. :)
     
    #326 The Dude, Mar 12, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
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  27. Ceiling Cat

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    Is 1500mm/min the top speed of routy? Only thing I have tried is around 200 thus far. I want to run it now but machine is down for repairs presently :(. I burnt up a stepper apparently. Not sure how it happened but one of them on the y axis doesn't even spin anymore, just kind makes high pitch grunting noise. I ordered 4 new Nema 17's all 1.8 degree steps for better holding torque. Not using second hand steppers this time around.

    Do any of you leave the plastic on when cutting your acrylic or do you peel it off? I've been peeling it off but wondering if it would help to keep it from getting scratched if I leave it on.
     
  28. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    My motors stall at anything faster than 1500. It all depends on your controller board+motors.

    I don't have plastic on my acrylic but it doesn't matter either way.
     
  29. mightyevo

    mightyevo New
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    hey all
    kinda new to the whole cnc thing. but have a lot of experience with 3dprinters. i have just finished the build of routy and have a question. am i able to use RAMPS to run this? id really like to use elecronics i have/know. if so how would i o about this.
    and finally im having difficulty finding an appropriote router am currently looking at the kress 1050 but think it might be a little heavy.
    thanks
    mevo
     
  30. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    3D printers and CNC machines have identical components with the exception of the router/print head. If you can run GCode you can do CNC. The best router, by far, is the 890KV OX spindle plus it costs less than any others. I think you need a drill press to make it.
     
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