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OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    They are in mm so make sure that you have that option selected when you import to SketchUp. Once in side you can change over to inches if you like.
    import.JPG
     
  2. Frank G Haymes

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    I tried again using Sketchup 8 and the drawing are still to big. The 5mm holes measure 1524.0mm.
     
  3. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Hmm I just downloaded the DXF and imported it in to SketchUp 7 (I have a DXF/DWG import plug in for that version) and set it millimeters and all went well. At this point I am stumped why its not working
    Below is a screen shot of the import options window
    Capture.JPG
     
  4. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Ditto in 7.
     
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  5. Frank G Haymes

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    I got it to work. I needed to set the import options to mm.
     
  6. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Good deal Frank thanks for the update. :thumbsup:
     
  7. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Thanks Mark for a job well done. The time and effort you put into creating the OX is well appreciated. As an CNC router newbie I am feeling my way around a whole new area and can't wait until I have learned enough to stop asking stupid questions. But until then, here's another one. I have downloaded all the OX files and when I open Sketchup 2013 ( a program I'm having a bit of difficulty mastering. Another million questions there) I see the layout of all the parts. What I don't see is all the dimensions. Is there something else I have to do to maybe un-hide them? Newbies ~ ya gotta love 'em.
     
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  8. skarab

    skarab Journeyman
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    Ok it's decided, my first CNC will be a OX! Thank you very much for your work.
     
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  9. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Thanks guys :)

    @GrandpawB Check out this page on the understanding the SketchUp tool bar
    http://www.sketchup.com/learn/videos?playlist=60
    and have a look at the Dimensioning video
    NOTE: You may have to go full screen on the video to get it to play right. It may just be my video card though.
     
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  10. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Thank you Mark. Very helpful.:D
     
  11. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Your more then welcome @GrandpawB these are great videos and the same way I learned to use SketchUp
     
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  12. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    Start here with the intro video and follow through the rest of them.
    also look over on phlatforum.com for the series of howto videos that show how to use Sketchup + sketchucam to generate effective Gcode
     
  13. Greenman

    Greenman New
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    I was watching the build video about installing the lead screw. My question is about the bearings. I was said that they need to seat in the threaded rod plates. The diameter of the recess is 16mm. So the outside diameter of the bearing needs to be 16mm and the inside to match the diameter of the lead screw. I was thinking of using 8mm. Am I correct in my take on this? Thanks
     
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  14. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    Mark, this has been running around my head as a 'want' on my own router, maybe you can figure out how to add this to the OX?
     
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  15. Mopar32985

    Mopar32985 Well-Known
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    Decided to start up the 3D printer and print out the V slot nut block. It turned out great can wait to get started on this build
     

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  16. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    @GrandpawB
    yes this is correct. In the video I am using a 6mm acme (because thats what I had on hand) but our plan is to stock 8mm only because for longer runs it will have less whip when turning at high speeds. On short run like the Z axis of the OX 6mm works fine too.
    @David the swarfer Great to talk with you on the CrashCast tonight :) thank you for all your help my friend!
    I have never seen any thing like this before and its exciting to see people coming up with cool ideas like style jig. I think it could be done on the ox because of the open table design like the legacy machine. I think the also the rotary layout like they are using axis could also be incorporated with little effort using V-Slot. These are exactly the cool mods that I look forward to see being done on the OX as we work as a community to make it the best it can be. Great video thank you for sharing it.
    @Mopar32985
    really nice looking print! My prints never turn out that good :thumbsup: The Z axis is really the heart of the machine so the best thing to keep in mind is to take time to keep everything aligned and tight, as it takes on the most force. I went back and really wrenched down all my wheels and pushed them tight to the rail. this is to ensure that it will stay strong. Don't worry about the wheels being to tight on the rail they will roll when the acme moves them. keep up the good work :)
     
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  17. Anthony Webb

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    Guilty confession: I have a shapeoko2 gathering dust in my office, I literally haven't even opened the box to start the assembly. Really would rather build the ox as my first foray into CNC. Nice job, looks awesome.
     
  18. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    That's easy with the OX. it has an open center so you can just do exactly like the guy in the video did and put the OX on legs to the height you like.
     
  19. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Let me toss out another question to anybody who can answer.
    If the software program controls the spindle position, what is the reason for limit switches?
    Do most of the other CNC router members here have limit switches on their machines?
    Would anybody here be willing to explain how to install limit switches and how to configure them?
    OK, I guess that 3 questions. My bad.:banghead:
     
  20. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    I have 1 switch per axis which acts as home+both limits. The optical microsensor switches get the machine positioned to within 0.001 mm. The software doesn't know where the spindle is without the switches. You could try to eyeball it and enter the coordinates but... the results won't be consistent across pieces. Another thing is the motors or software can goof up and crash the machine so limit switches act as an override. I think it's cheaper to add the switches than to be replacing stripped belts, bent parts, broken bits, etc.

    I can't really explain how to set up the software. I use linuxCNC with a TB6560 board so my switches come into the board on pins 1-4 of the db9 port on the controller and then go into pin 10-14 on the parallel port and I just tell linuxcnc which pin is which axis and it's both limits + home.
     
  21. Colin Russon

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    The most common reason for fitting limit switches, not homing switches as described by The Dude, is operator fault. The operator can design a program but often, especially when first starting to design and use CNC machines get the Axis the wrong way around or, as I have found to be most common with my clients, use inches instead of millimeters.

    The limit switches are there as a safeguard to stop the machine overreaching itself. Of course some software will allow you to program limits so that the coordinates that are 'over' the limit would be either ignored or an error message appears.

    Whatever reason, you are best fitting homing switches AND limit switches to be safe.

    Col.
     
  22. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    I have not installed home/limits on my machine but some of the guys on the Shapeoko forum have using the grbl sheild.
    http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1098
    and here http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=361&start=10
    I have read the optical switches can be a problem but the mechanical ones seem to be ok.
    What would be a cool mod to adding the simple limits, is to make the adjustable along the V-Slot so that if your working with clamps you could ensure that they would not be hit by moving your limits in a bit on each end. This plate could be useful for this.
    http://openbuildspartstore.com/limit-switch-plate/
     
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  23. GrandpawB

    GrandpawB Well-Known
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    Thanks to all of you for your helpful input.:thumbsup:Hopfully this helped others as well.
     
  24. The Dude

    The Dude Well-Known
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    No just one opto sensor per axis. Maybe mechanical switches would be harder because you'd have to trip the switch from the back but those switches are so cheap I'd just use two wired to the same input pin. As people may or may not know, optical switches are far superior to mechanical switches (ie: +/- 0.005" accuracy or better, no switch bounce, no mechanical parts to wear out). I just ripped some out of an old printer and used the reprap gen7 electronics(3 resistors and 1 LED). I hear you can buy a "kit" with everything for all axes for a mere $200 bahahaha
     
  25. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Just a thought, many commercial machines use just one switch per axis (switch is mounted in the centre of the axis travel) with two actuators, set to trip the switch, mounted at each end of the travel.
    I think I prefer two switches per axis though.

    Tweakie.
     
  26. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Here is a good run down of switch types available
     
  27. Mopar32985

    Mopar32985 Well-Known
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    Well this build is amazing and Mark you have done a great job. This as far as I can get. Waiting on some parts. So much fun to build.

    Chance
     

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  28. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Wow Chance you are rock'in this build! Nice work and quick too :thumbsup:
     
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  29. Mopar32985

    Mopar32985 Well-Known
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    Thanks to you man and those great videos you put up. I didn't realize how great they were until I was using them as instructions. Can't wait to get the rest of the parts
     
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  30. skarab

    skarab Journeyman
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    @Mopar32985 Good job !

    I also expect that everything is in stock to build a Routy + OX. I do not have access to a CNC. Routy will be the mother of the OX.
     
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