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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Carl Feniak, Sep 29, 2014.

  1. sheffdog

    sheffdog New
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    Here is the results I'm getting with my finished c-bot, I'm very happy with the quality I'm getting at 100 micron. I also compare a print of a dragon printed on a makerbot replicator 1 and a cat printed off my c-bot and you can clearly see less ringing with the C-bot print.
     

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  2. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    I think I got excited a little too soon...on further testing .... With line 747 uncommented the extruder heaters do not work, maybe the bed too as I don't have mine connected. The fan will run at 100% with the pin change. If someone knows C code better than I maybe u can track this down. The guy coding it doesn't seem to have a grasp on this.
     
  3. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430957
    Made a 140% sized version (pics below) in natural ABS. Turned out surprising well considering I used no support and a couple areas are very steep. The end product is too small to use as a real planter. 220% size version in progress!

    IMG_1197.JPG IMG_1205.JPG IMG_1206.JPG
     
  4. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Very nice, I'll be printing off a few once my current print finishes. Okay in PLA?
     
  5. sheffdog

    sheffdog New
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    PLA should be fine Carl, post pics!
     
  6. hax0red

    hax0red New
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    Matterhackers ended up sending me the fan for my second E3D Lite6 but they also included an E3D V6 minus duct, thermistor and heater cartridge. Have to say they have my vote now :thumbsup:

    Gonna compare print quality of the E3D Lite6 and V6 tonight.
     
  7. AK Eric

    AK Eric Journeyman
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    Time to stop lurking I suppose, been following this thread for a while: I'm friends with sheffdog, and seeing his success has inspired me to build one of my own. I've ran a Rep1 for the past 3+ years, and am ready for something.... bigger....

    Much bigger actually. And thus my question: I'm seeing people build these with a roughly foot-squared build volume. But I'm interested at going 2' tall: xy 305mm, z 610mm.
    I can see that expanding the xy past 305mm would probably need a bed redesign (like others have done, triple-c bot, etc). But it seems like there shouldn't be much penalty going up on Z. Or is there? Would extra supports be needed along Z to reduce flexing, etc?

    Any thoughts on the matter appreciated before I start buying parts.
    Thanks!
     
  8. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    You should be okay extending the Z, but should consider using the beefier bottom brackets posted a page to two ago, or the aluminum OpenBuilds brackets. That way you have a solid base to stabilize the longer Z bars and prevent any twisting or rhombusing. <-- new adjective?
     
  9. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    The file is importing weird into slic3r, can you post a .stl version?
     
  10. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Carl, how do you have those cooling fans mounted? And are those shrouds custom or ones you found?
     
  11. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    OK, I got it..........
    the only thing necessary with a default load for EEB, CoreXY, and Quickhome (only works in 1.0.3 dev ver) (excepting chgs for mechanics) is to mount the expander bd so that it is shifted over 2 pins. Fan_Pin is set to 4 default. For some reason using pin 11 does not work. I do not know why. Using 4, 5, or 6 does work. It could be my Arduino has a bad pin 11 but b/c Marlin was set up for 4 I am suspecting there is a conflict in Marlin. If ur does not work on 11 then that would be the case.
     
  12. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    As for the bed I have 4x 20x40 rails and 3 screws, belt driven-similar to Adamcooks. I didn't like the cantilever part of this design for any height. -- everything else I love - thx again Carl......I'm at 305 on Z. But IMHO height is not a factor in the bed design. I had to trim slightly b/c my bed grew in height but it looks like I can get the other 10mm if I need it.
    My bed travel is 335, 305 (extra 30mm for dual heads). I made a special wheel support (only 1 wheel on each corner) - my 3rd version - which appears to be very solid. What surprised me was learning Sketchup so I could model the whole thing. When I designed the wheel support they fit like a glove. I designed and printed 2 other pieces that went together like the display case fits. Incredible, for me at least.

    As for dbl height, I think the challenge is the corners and how rigid & square u can get the frame. U may need some cross bracing on the sides. I think Adamcooks had a little issue with this. Mine is pretty solid without bracing. A simple 1/4 wood panel 4 to 6" wide should work. Other than that, I don't see an issue.
     
  13. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Custom, they mount to the back of the XY carriage with the angled bracket included in the stl. It can be pivoted on the bracket to accommodate slightly different lengths of hot ends. For a 40mm fan.
     
  14. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Did I miss the stl post? Didn't notice anything in the file section.
     
  15. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Added, only posted in the forums before.
     
  16. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    My oldtimers must be setting in. Where did you add it at? Couldn't find it in the file section.
     
  17. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    No that was on me. Added the file, but didn't submit the build. Fixed.
     
  18. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    @carl
    Did u post a process to align the hotends? I seem to remember something but can't find it now. I am so close but can't seem to nail it down and I need to retighten things as the heat break is loose on one. I'm going in circles now.
     
  19. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Not other than cleaning out the slots so the right hotend can move up and down +/- 1mm. The XY spacing I defined in slic3r (can be done in Marlin as well but slic3r is easier to tweak initially).
     
  20. ruggb

    ruggb Well-Known
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    that was it - the right one. I have it within a paper width of even but need to disassemble and tighten things up so I have to do it again.
    I saw one had a different width but I didn't realize it was on purpose.
     
  21. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Well-Known
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    crafty geek, if I may make a suggestion here: try aliexpress, they're really cheap, I recently purchased a customized 1.3 x 1.2 meters etched foil silicone pad with controller for a mere 370 USD.
    if planning to check it out, contact the shenzhen ali brother technology co. ltd company, they are the ones I dealt with. usa prices are expensive, checked them myself.
    good luck.
     
  22. hax0red

    hax0red New
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    Ended up buying the Home Depot 84 piece spring kit for $4.3x and glad I did. It actually came with quite a few springs that can be used for heated bed, extruder, spring loaded bed leveling switches and removing slop in the ball linkages on a Delta style printer. They include four of each size with most having beefy wire size for good rigidity.

    Also picked up the 8 M5 60mm bolts I needed for the Z axis rollers.
     

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  23. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    My roommate just got the same box of springs. He needed one for his extruder. After looking the whole box of springs he also found different springs to use for his 3d printer.
     
  24. craftygeek

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    Thanks - I did have a quick look on aliexpress a few days ago....i'll have a closer look & see what I can find!
     
  25. AK Eric

    AK Eric Journeyman
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    Just wanted to say thanks for the replies on my build build volume questions. I've pulled the trigger and ordered all the parts. I'll probably be posting more... soon ;)
    And big thanks to Carl for this awesome build!
     
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  26. feenix3k

    feenix3k New
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    Don't use Alie Express, their shipping is high, and if you order a lot of a item the prices goes up on shipping. Bang Good is a sister company to them without the high shipping .
     
  27. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    Once you are up and running, periodically check the derlin wheel contact tightness. I do this by sliding the assembly while resisting rotation with my hand on two opposing wheels. If one wheel slides instead of rotates then you should tighten the wheel with the angled slot slightly. If you used washers like I did, simply tightening the assembly will cause it to slide in and self tighten. Though you don't want to overdo it as this will cause the derlin wheel to wear out faster and affect the hotend positioning.
     
  28. Mascott

    Mascott New
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    Hey all,

    First off Carl, thanks for sharing such a wonderful design, and everyone else thanks for all the wonderful insights! I've enjoyed reading through the discussion.

    I've been working on a large printer (roughly 3ft build volume) over the past few months. Just piecing it together as I had the funds. I'm using the design as posted for the x and y axis and it's performing wonderfully. I've obviously reworked the z axis quite a bit to accommodate the increase in size. I fully expected the nema 17 (78oz) motors I already had would be too weak to handle moving the platform and (sadly) I was correct. It looks like I can easily upgrade to these https://www.pololu.com/product/2133 which will drive a stepper at 2.5A. The problem I see with that is based on a preliminary search most of the steppers at 2.5A have around 165oz of torque. I'm a software developer by trade, I just dabble in electronics, so I'm unsure if that amount of torque would be sufficient for my needs if I print something that takes most of the build space, not to mention just the bed and frame for this size printer is fairly hefty.

    So, two questions. Is there a method I can use to determine roughly what amount of torque would be necessary to turn my screws? I'm sure there's some kind of formula based on the screw thread and the load but I have no idea where I'd find it. Secondly, if the torque is greater then what I can supply via the driver above does anyone have any suggestions on external stepper drivers that have their signal provided by a ramps 1.4 board?

    Thanks!
     
  29. Carl Feniak

    Carl Feniak Journeyman
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    One alternative is to increase your Z drive mechanical advantage by using a lower pitch lead screw. Not sure what you are currently using, but I am using a 8mm pitch lead screw, the one linked to below is a 2mm pitch. Yes it will move much slower, but it will be able to lift 4 times the weight as my setup without skipping steps. It also looks to be a drop in replacement for the 3D parts already designed.
    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/8mm-4-Start-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1e95d96bcf
     
  30. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Well, I am nearing the end of my build. Just about have everything finished. Waiting for a new hotend to come in (hotend on my Printrbot went out and had to put it on that one). One of the last things I have on my "to learn" list is how to level the bed and set the height of the hotend. My other printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal and I guess I have gotten spoiled with the auto bed leveling and height adjustment using the probe. So what is the correct way to get this all setup? I'll be ready to do a test print when the new hotend is here. I have 2.5mm glass over the heated plate.
     

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