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question about new c beam motor mounting plate

Discussion in 'General Talk' started by stuart wallace, Sep 18, 2020.

  1. stuart wallace

    Builder

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    Hi there,
    I have the lead 1010 with high z mod. I'm looking at these new plates and considering getting them for my machine.

    C-Beam Motor Mount Plate

    Before I get them, I'm trying to confirm some things with people more knowledgeable than myself.

    Do I need to trim down the c beam to make this work? Also, do these plates have any threaded holes on the sides like the previous version?

    Do I just swap out the stock ones with these and add the newly-listed tension nut, the newly-listed flanged bearing, and the newly-listed thrust bearing like I see in the picture here? Thrust Bearing upload_2020-9-18_14-31-57.png
     
  2. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

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    No, the thinner plates removes the need to trim. If you keep your existing endmounts, you have to trim 12mm off

    They do not, so if you need those holes, consider trimming your C-Beam as mentioned above


    Sounds about right, here's a 3D Model to inspect closer to make sure: C-Beam Tension XL Linear Actuator Bundle | 3D Warehouse
     
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  3. stuart wallace

    Builder

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    Is this current setup good enough for wood in 2d and 2.5d?

    Specifically, I’m asking about wheels and anti backlash nut blocks. Do I need to add 4 more wheels to support the c beam? Or is it fine as is?

    Also, in each of these gantry plate configurations, I have an anti backlash nut block. Is that sufficient or do I need to get the regular / rectangular nut blocks so that there is one at the bottom and top of each gantry plate configuration?

    thanks a ton y’all!
     

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  4. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

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    That is how I am doing mine and so far it works great. If you are using the antibacklash nuts, one is fine. I used an antibacklash for my z and two nut blocks for my x, but that is because with the nut blocks you need two so you can adjust one to remove the backlash as they wear. With the antibacklash nuts you can adjust them with the screw as they wear. I can't remember my reasoning for using the two different methods. If I recall right, it was what I had available.
    DSC_0040.JPG DSC_0043 (2).JPG
     
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