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C-Beam™ Machine - Plate Maker

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Mark Carew, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team

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    Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace
     
  2. Pedro Melim

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    Im looking into buying a C-Beam kit, but i heard that the plate can have some flex to it, and since i wanted to have the max build this machine can have, i started to plan buying some extra parts to be able to make the bed more rigid.

    My plan was to do something like jmdhuse did here and explained here.

    My problem is this is raising the cost quite a bit, like 150€.

    Any chance you guys have a better idea on how i could get the the max build area possible and fix the flex on the plate?
     
  3. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    You might take a look at the outriggers on this one: Improved CBM
     
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  4. arcrunner

    arcrunner Well-Known
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    Hi all,
    I have a few extra extrusion I could use to build this, but just curious if using 2040 for the sides and lower cross braces would make too much of a negative impact? I have enough c beam for the other pieces, and would like to use c beam to hold up the z like I've seen in another build. Would j probably be okay? Or just go ahead and buy more 2080/2060?
     
  5. Yoav

    Yoav New
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    Hey all, built the thing, configured the software, everything looks great but the stepper motors will not move. They lock into place when the controller is turned on, the controller will flash and the motors will make a click sound when I jog through the software, and the location indicator in the software shows the proper movement - but the motors do not move.
    What could be the problem?
    I tried changing the current on the controller, switching the motor pairs, restarting everything, double checked the setting.... nothing works...
     
  6. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    first, slow down your max rates and acceleration in GRBL. However if this was too fast you would hear a whining sound, but you don't mention that.

    also, check you actually connected the pairs (-: Mark's video does show how to figure out the pairs, you cannot trust color codes as every motor maker does it their own way.

     
  7. Techvette

    Techvette New
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    @Mark Carew

    Could you post the F&S and endmill specs you used when cutting the XY c-beam demo plate?



    Also, how did you handle chip clearing?

    I made two modified versions of this awhile back (modified to include a limit switch mount and NEMA23 motor mount) and am embarrassed to say that, now that I need to make a slightly different version, I keep breaking endmills. I must've suffered some sort of memory loss in the meantime. o_O
     
  8. Arzak

    Arzak New
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    I am not sure if I am posting this at the right place. I have a Plate maker and I want to add limit switches on both ends of each axis I am using the Blackbox and the micro limit switches. I need to know how to wire them up. The only diagram i can find is gnea/grbl. Thanks for any help.
     
  9. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Mark Carew likes this.
  10. Benfish65

    Benfish65 New
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    On the C-Beam photo, I see 2 plexiglass side pieces attached. Is there anywhere where I could find drawings so that I can make them for my machine?

    Thanks
     
  11. phil from seattle

    phil from seattle Journeyman
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    Went through the same process but didn't find anything liked. Pretty easy to draw up the design on your own. I made mine by taking measurements. Since it was too big to cut on my C-Beam machine, I just made a template for the front rounded corner on my C-Beam and hand routed it with a trim bit. Trim the plexiglass to about 1/16" before routing, though. Drilled holes on a drill press for the screws that go into the extrusion/drop-in nuts. Came out great. Pay attention to the rear where it meets the gantry - yours may not be exactly like the C-Beam sketchup models that are out there. The picture isn't that great but you can see the skirts.
    IMG_20191015_110806.jpg

    If I were doing it over, I'd make it higher but that would require cutting holes for the gantry components. Mine is about 4 1/2" tall and I think about 6" would help reduce dust/swarf excursion. Though, it works well enough that I don't feel a pressing need to redo it.
     
  12. drpeej

    drpeej New
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    I've searched my PC for the design file I used but can't find it I'm afraid. However it's dead easy to draw up a design and cut it from cast acrylic on your C-Beam
     
  13. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    If absolute accuracy is a must on the side plates, they are easily extracted from the original Sketchup file.
     
  14. Giarc

    Giarc OpenBuilds Team
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    Since they are slightly longer than your cutting area and not heavy, it would be a great project to get familiar with pin registration (Google "pin egistration cnc" if unfamiliar). Of course you would some clearance at the front and rear.
     
  15. Doug Pittman

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    Mark, am i able to use a raspberry pi with cnc hat to control the cbeam
     
  16. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    sort of. it will work but not at full power. the hat stepper drivers cannot supply enough power to the motors, they need 2 to 3 amps to work properly.
    what you need is a BlackBox (or equivalent) which has proper drivers that can drive the motors to full capacity.

    You could use the hat without the tiny drivers as a connection point for good drivers like the DQ542. Essentially the hat is an Arduino Uno with sockets for the drivers, so you can look up the pin connections and connect bigger drivers to it.
    The Blackbox is an Uno with drivers built in (and a bunch of cool protection circuitry and other nice stuff).

    I use a bare Arduino board with DQ542 drivers and I have a Blackbox for a future secret project (-:
     
  17. Doug Pittman

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    So i would have to buy three of these to control the cbeam or one blackbox
     
  18. David the swarfer

    David the swarfer OpenBuilds Team
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    correct. 1 blackbox
    or
    3 drivers and do some manual wiring.
     
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  19. Alex Chambers

    Alex Chambers Master
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    Blackbox has the advantage of 4 stepper drivers (for the slave Y axis)
    Alex.
     
  20. Generalhaystacks

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    What’s the best way to get additional z height for some additional working height ?
     
    #1610 Generalhaystacks, Apr 23, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2021
  21. Ronald4418

    Ronald4418 Well-Known
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    I just used longer uprights supporting the X-Axis along with a longer Z-axis to compensate.
     
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  22. Generalhaystacks

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    Any info on the parts used?
     
  23. Ronald4418

    Ronald4418 Well-Known
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    Instead of 500mm 's. for the uprights I made mine 700 and I increased the Z-Axis to the same. Just had to cut down the length of the Leadscrew from 790mm to 740 as the one I ordered was for a 750mm Linear Drive. This game me just under 2 inches more in clearance. Cuts beautifully with the Router11 Spindle.
     
  24. bingtang

    bingtang New
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    Can linear guide rail be used instead of pulley?
     
  25. krazeekirk

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    Guys,
    Can the OpenBuilds C-Beam be used with a DWP611 router? I noticed that it's listed on the parts list but the link doesn't take you anywhere, thanks for the help in advance.
     
  26. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Yes it can. That's probably the most common router used with it.
     
  27. krazeekirk

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    Thanks a million Rick! I wasn't sure because it showed the build with only the Makita installed.
     
  28. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Actually the original photos are showing a Bosch Colt installed which is what the standard OpenBuilds mounting bracket is based on.
     
  29. krazeekirk

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    My apologies! Thanks for the correction :)
     
  30. R_B

    R_B New
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    I built one when they first came out, did a couple of test cuts and haven't run it since.
    Mostly a noise and mess issue - thinking of adding a laser head to it at this point, perhaps for wood burning, possibly for metal cutting, more for the exercise of building it and getting it running.
     

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