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TrueUp Kit Version

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. kennytent

    kennytent New
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    I got it worked out!
     
  2. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Hey Kenny, glad you got it.

    Would you mind sharing the steps you used so others in the same situation can use it?
     
  3. kennytent

    kennytent New
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    Honestly, not quite sure what did it. I did not have the FDTI driver initially, but it still didn't work after installing.

    Figuring it was my computer and Win10 fighting me, I tried programming the Arduino online, and it gradually began to respond. Ultimately, I gave up for the night, tried it first thing in the morning, and it worked, with the downloaded version of Arduino. I'd guess the driver was doing something in the background, and I was trying to rush it.

    Finally got the first successful print last night!

    I was trying to run the adjusters on the nylon slides too tight, causing it to rock before lifting, there by- essentially loosing steps, causing the nozzle to drag on the print. I still think I have a little too much drag, as sometimes the z-motor will make noise, like it has not stepped fully. I currently have it turned all the way up on the driver. I'll likely upgrade to your newest version, with the guides, but till then, I'll still do some tweaking

    I also had an issue with not being able to get the x-axis belt tight enough, allowing the belt to slip. I filed the adjustment slots, to get a little more range, and good to go.
     
  4. lehula

    lehula New
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    Does this version 2(5/17) BOM include everything to make the Vulcan Maxtrudr?
     
  5. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I have abandoned the Vulcan Maxtrudr. When assembled, the Vulcan Maxtrudr weight is the same as my standard extruder. Since the Vulcan Maxtrudr offers no gain weight-wise it does not allow faster printing. Indeed, to get the enough power for the Vulcan Maxtrudr that the standard extruder has at 1/8 steps, I had to reset the extruder step driver down to full steps.
     
  6. kennytent

    kennytent New
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    Thanks both of you, for your comments, I was just about to start ordering off the BOM for the Vulcan. Guess I'll do some more looking, this would have been for another printer I have (my TrueUp has been working great since I did the linear bearing conversion). I wasn't necessarily looking for max speed, but interested in running larger nozzle sizes, to cut print time on big prints.
     
  7. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    With a larger nozzle you are pushing more plastic, so you need more speed past the drive gear. But not more power since the nozzle is less restrictive.. But I've printed .8mm PLA with no problem using the standard extruder.
     
  8. Joe Saindon

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    Hi Keith,

    I decided to build my own printer to achieve a higher quality build than the $200 clones I see all over the place. Your design seemed the most practical and has the best build instructions I've seen around. Most builds I find are incomplete or kind of hack jobs. Kudos to you for documenting it, that's not fun or easy.

    One thing I noticed is that the original Trueup design seems to have morphed into new designs over time. It looked like the Trueup Glide BOM was the most complete to me so I ordered all of the hardware from OpenBuilds and Robotdigg from that BOM. It seems very close to the Kit version, minus a few part differences. Is the Glide the same as the kit? I guess I am looking for advice as to which version to build. They seem the same to me. Should I have ordered from the kit BOM? Thanks!

    My background is electrical engineering with some mechanical experience, so I am confident in my fabricating skills. I also have mechanical engineer friends at work that can help with anything I may be lacking in experience. The Z axis comes to mind. That seems to be the hang up spot.
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Actually Joe, I suggest you look at the TrueUp LZ. It used linear bearings and rods instead of the nylon Glides for the Z axis. My main printer in my workshop is a Glide that has thousands of trouble-free hours, but the Glides are a ***** to get set up right. The LZ is simple by comparison and very accurate and trouble-free. And best of all, the difference between an LZ and Glide is so small that there is an upgrade zip for the 6 printed parts that are different. The change in BOM is merely adding the linear rods and bearings ($25.50) (2 x 8mm 15" Hardened Shafts with 2 LM8LUU Rod Rail Long Linear Bearing Motion | eBay)

    Checkout the LZ at

    TrueUp LZ
     
    Joe Saindon likes this.
  10. Joe Saindon

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    Will do Keith, thanks! I didn’t print anything yet in anticipation of changing it up.
     

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