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7050 Sphinx

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Michael.M, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Check out this little beauty
     

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  2. SCYBUCK

    SCYBUCK New
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    You made that???

    Cool!
     
  3. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Sadly, I did not make that. Lol. It's from Chris @ Blue Ox
    I'm waiting for countersink bit and flathead bolts for the cast plate mounting. Then I'll be adding the t-track and HDPE spoilboard sections.
     
  4. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    HDPE curls when you remove the skin. Make sure you skin both sides if you stick with it. I chose to use acrylic as a waterproof spoiler.
     
  5. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Thanks for the heads up. That's a bummer, I already purchased a couple pieces of this marine grade HDPE that has a textured finish. I planned to surface both sides to remove the texture, then add countersunk mounting points. So are you saying HDPE reacts poorly to moisture?
     
  6. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    I didn't sit down and study it so don't take my words as gospel. It did catch me off guard though as I use hdpe for prototyping smaller parts. The prototype to the trays I make was in hdpe. The length is about 165mm. I took a look at the part a few days later and it had bowed by maybe 5-7mm on each side.

    I don't know if there is a difference between marine and regular, but HDPE is referred to as marine plywood. Something tells me that all bets are off once it's skinned.
     

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  7. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Well aside from the warping, can I ask what works best for you as far as end mills go? I read online that most tooling that works for aluminum with work with HDPE. Are you using an openbuilds machine?
     
  8. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Nice work by the way
     
  9. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    Thanks.

    HDPE is probably the most forgiving material I have worked with to date. The ONLY thing you have to watch out for is burring, which happens when your feed is too low or speed is too high. I can't find the last file I cut, which was better, but this was a start. I believe I turned my Bosche down to "2" which is about 18000rpm. I'm pretty sure I also increased the feed to 2400mm/min. This was with a two flute TiCN .015" corner radius mill. A single or o-flute would be better. No coolant was used. You will have more issued holding the material than you will cutting it.

    From the code---
    Speed: 20krpm
    6.35mm Two Flute
    Feed: 2000mm/min
    Plunge: 600mm/min
    Conventional Cut
    DOC: 3mm

    Modified---
    Speed: 18krpm
    6.35mm Two Flute
    Feed: 2400mm/min
    Plunge: 600mm/min
    Conventional Cut
    DOC: 3mm

    I'm cutting on a 500x500 Sphinx.
     
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  10. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I just checked out your Sphinx. I had my eye on your machine when I made my decision to build a Sphinx. Nice looking machine. I think the closest thing I have to what you recommend is an 1/8" Kyocera single flute square nose bit. I used it on a small piece of delrin. At this point I still have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to feeds and speeds but the delrin cut like butter.
     
  11. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    And the HDPE will cut even smoother. I still haven't gotten a chance to cut Delrin/Acetal. :/ Once you figure out what your machine can do, the numbers start flying. Then it takes a u-turn once you get into HSM. Now that stuff is fun. I'm mentally working on ways to upgrade the Sphinx to an even stronger unit for that. In fact, all of these numbers I'm posting aren't valid for HSM methods.

    On mine, I'd try this as a start.
    Feed: 800mm/min
    Plunge: 275mm/min
    Speed: 20krpm
    DOC: 1mm

    But because you have a real spindle, ___ as a start.
    Feed: 500mm/min
    Plunge: 200mm/min
    Speed: 10krpm
    DOC: 1.5mm

    Just cut out small 25x25mm squares with pockets in the middle so you get a feel for flat finishes and side finishes at varying depths.
     
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  12. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Awesome Kevon! This is really good information as our machines are very similar. I bought the delrin pieces on eBay to make a different type of antibacklash nut. It never really worked because I couldn't get the diy acme tap shaped right to really bite the material so I decided to just practice with it. The only problem as you mentioned was work holding. I can see that is tricky with these low friction plastics.
     
  13. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I'm a little bummed out. I bought some 90 degree countersink bits and Flathead bolts to drill / mount the cast plate and t-track but it was a disaster. The bits were from Amazon and incredibly dull. The countersinks ended up non symmetrical and oversized. The t-track came pre drilled but none of the holes were centered. It was an extremely frustrating weekend. I have these pictures in my head of how I want things to be and it's a real downer when it doesn't work out.
     
  14. dregalia

    dregalia New
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    Hey Kyo,
    I understand this is based off your your sphinx design... Do you have a link to the original release of it, and the plates? I've been wanting to build my own now for a while, and I think this is the right setup for me.

    Thanks!
     
  15. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    If you click on his name you'll see "builds". I think there's a link for the plates in the discussion page of the Sphinx build. You could also search "Blue Ox Solutions" on eBay and send Chris a PM.
     
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  16. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    The set I bought has a couple different upgrades. You should definitely speak to Chris and explain what you want. He's really great to work with and offers a few different options.
     
  17. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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  18. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Milled a spindle wrench today using the cheap 2 flute 1/8" end mills from Amazon. The surface finish is super smooth. I'm using Fusion 360 combined with Bcnc. I setup the CAM with 2 different operations but when I reach the point where there should be a tool change, Bcnc just continues past it with the same tool. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but I think it has something to do with the Post Processor I'm using.
     

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  19. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    2nd try with the Open Source logo. I'm pretty much using this as a test or benchmark.
     

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  20. patdee

    patdee New
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    Hi Michael,

    Love that machine. Have a couple of questions.

    Did you opt for the standard 1/4 inch thick Gantry plates? The plates on the end of the Gantry seems to me (in the photo) to be thicker. Is that the case? If so, what thickness did you go with?

    Note: If some one has asked this before, I apologize. But I am new to this forum.
     
  21. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Hey patdee
    Yeah the plate set is all .25" thick. The only thing that is .5" thick is the router mount.
     
  22. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Oh and I have no problem answering any questions you have even if it's been asked before.
     
  23. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I'm sure Chris (Blue Ox) would use whatever thickness you require if you think you may need something like 3/8" - 1/2" but I think you'll see deflection in the cbeam before you have issues with the plates.
     
  24. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    More benchys
     

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  25. Kevon Ritter

    Kevon Ritter Veteran
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    Doesn't it feel good? :D
     
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  26. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Yeah it does, now I just need materials to cut!
     
  27. patdee

    patdee New
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    Hi Michael,

    I am interested also in your choice of spindles. What make and model is yours? It looks GREAT on your machine.

    Thanks,

    pat
     
  28. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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  29. patdee

    patdee New
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    Thanks Michael,

    Tell me more about the closed loop waters system. I am really a novice here.

    pat
     
  30. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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