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IndieLC

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Indieflow, Apr 11, 2015.

  1. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    You can remove one hotend from the cyclops and use it as a normal single extruder printer if you want! Must admit I hardly use the second head.

    Also PM me your email address and I can send you over my Slic3r configure file (unfortunately I can't post it as its not recognised by this site) which should give you a starting point to calibrate from!
     
  2. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Thanx, I'll PM you the details for the config file.

    I believe you are thinking of the Chimera, not Cyclops. Apart from removing a heat break and putting a M6 bolt down the intake for the removed heat break I don't see how to use the Cyclops with single filament without molten plastic coming out the wrong way.


    Cyclops:
    424px-CYCLOPS-ASSEMBLED.jpg

    Chimera:
    424px-CHIMERA-ASSEMBLED.jpg
     
  3. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Nice tip! I will post my standard configure file for others to use as a starting point shortly then.
     
  4. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Ah right, yes my bed I was thinking about the chimera! Not played with Cyclopes myself yet, looks better in some ways though! I imagine it should be easy to setup though, from what I've read you just need to be careful with retraction settings!
     
  5. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Yay!

    Yesterday my first successful print came through. :thumbsup:
    Obviously some more tuning to do with regards to extrusion to get a better finish.

    The process 3d printing is hypnotic! I should have shut the thing down and gone to bed, but I couldn't! Was stuck watching ;)

    Some observations.. Sorry for the ****** photo. Bad lighting and phone camera.
    I set print speed to 20mm/sec in Slic3r for perimeters and infill.
    Yet it sped up beyond that when doing the top layers on the areas marked in red. For the top layer the area marked in green was filled running at 20mm/sec but the red area was done way faster. I've been checking the Slic3r settings but I fail to see what setting I could tweak to avoid this.

    So much to learn - so little time. :D

    IMG_20160725_075927_2.jpg
     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  6. mario

    mario New
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    Thank you Simon!!! All parts are arrived!! elettronic parts next step
     
  7. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Simon, have you considered creating a belt driven extruder for the Indie i2?
     
  8. Karan Chaphekar

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    Look at voron belted extruder.

    Also are you planning to share stp or solidowork files?
     
  9. J Michael Pinc

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    I'm sure it's already been addressed, but where are the various parts for the Indie i2 from emakershop being sourced from now that they've gotten out of other folks kits?
     
  10. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Contact Simon(IndieFlow) via PM.
     
  11. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Apologies for the late reply everyone, only just seen the messages! For some reason I haven't been alerted to them!

    Must admit I hadn't as I personally have never had a problem with gears, are you still struggling with the small gear? What advantages do you see from moving to belts? How are you getting on with your build as well?

    Also how's your build coming along Mario? Will be great to hear what you think of the i2 compared to LC :duh:

    No sorry, though you can import my sol or dxf files directly into SolidWorks ;)

    Message sent :)
     
  12. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Hi Simon.

    My build is complete and the machine is running nicely on one extruder. I need to find a replacement bearing for the second extruder, though.. Need to pick it apart and do some measuring

    Belted extruder would be nice to lower noise. Mine is creaking alot.
     
  13. Karan Chaphekar

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    What is the length of the extrusions used?
     
  14. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    623 bearings measure 3x10x4mm easy enough to source in packs of 10x from places like eBay, or alternatively I can drop you one in the post! :)

    Admittedly the extruder is the noisiest part of the printer :duh: though to be honest it doesn't bother me as I used to use the Prusa i3 and linear bearings are way noisier! I may look into a belt drive for the next iteration!
     
  15. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Keep forgetting I haven't completed the assembly diagrams, great reminder :thumbsup:

    X- 20x20x210mm
    Y- 20x40x200mm
    Z- 20x40x275mm

    You can however use whatever lengths you want with the design, though these measurements allow a build area of 140x140x140mm, which matches the PCB heated beds I supply perfectly :)

    If you are altering the design to suit Nema 17's though these will need to increase dramatically to allow clearance of movement over the stepper motors!
     
  16. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Thanks! How I managed to miss the fact that the part list on the assembly diagrams say 623 beats me...
     
  17. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Yay for the belt clips on X axis!

    Today the grub screws on the motor pulley loosened and the part I was printing went down the drain. Simple to fix, though. Just loosen the clip closest to the pulley, take out the screws holding the stepper to the plastic bracket and fix it. Love the design, Simon! :thumbsup:

    Oh well, I guess my colleagues can wait one more day before I start peppering them with stuff using my shiny new office catapult... Muhahahaha! :)

    Gotta print stuff, right?
     
  18. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Thanks :thumbsup: try a little bit of locktite on the grubs if it happens again!

    Great feedback, keep it coming especially if you can think of things to upgrade :)
     
  19. Quoc Anh Le

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    where can i download it?
     
  20. stephen cia

    stephen cia Well-Known
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    There's some STL file that I wanted to incorporate in my 3D printer build using Fusion 360. looks like stl import is a bit wonky. is there a way we can get the STL posted in the form of STEP file? thx
     
  21. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Anyone else get one of these beauties assembled and running?
     
  22. Mykyta

    Mykyta New
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    Can samebody update partlist links?

    Please
     
  23. taratata2016

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    What physical length of the aluminum profile, do you have for the axes x y and z, please? thank you in advance
     
  24. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Unfortunately I'm still to find somewhere free (helps keep costs low) to advertise the kits long term! Until then feel free to PM me for anything you need towards a build :thumbsup: If you view the discussions section many others have dealt with me and have been happy with their parts.

    Using the heat beds I sell I use the following lengths to produce a build area of 140x140x140mm, though you can use what ever lengths you like to suit your heat bed or height requirements!

    X - 210mm
    Y - 200mm
    Z - 275mm

    :thumbsup:
     
  25. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team

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    Where can I find the list of parts for this open source build?
     
  26. Indieflow

    Indieflow Journeyman
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    Unfortunately I'm struggling to upload this to the "Files and Drawings" section!
     

    Attached Files:

  27. dieideeistgut

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    Hello Folks! Finally my first build is in a stage where i dare to show it off. Maybe its helpfull for someone else.

    [​IMG]

    I took Simons great idea for the Indie i2 and converted/upscaled it to run 200x200 or even 200x300 sized heated beds. Keeping the Nema 14s and as many parts like Simon designed them as possible. And to me it looks like this will work without any issues.

    I'm trying to keep this post updated when i find the time. There's also a - maybe-not-so-usefull - Git Repo.

    Issues i ran into so far:

    Heated bed carriage / Y-carriage

    This so far seems to be the biggest deal. I could not use Simons great carriage so i went for the OpenBuilds mini gantry plate instead and created kind of a mount for the bed. The problem here seems to be the weight then as i (really rarely) get the Y-axis to skip. Tuning arround with the tention of the belt and the current of the motors i slowly can reduce the numbers this issue occures. so this may not even be a real issue. The 0.8A Nema on the y-axis seems to do it's job well on 0.7A. Speeding up bejond 70mm/s lets these small Nemas get quite hot thought. Possible solutions here would be a Nema fan or even upgrading the y-nema to a 1.2A or 1.4A one. I'll keep investigating. Any ideas from you guys? :)

    Motors

    Found out that there are many Nema14s beeing on the market. Currently i run the 0.8A ones on all axis and the extruder has be upgraded to a 1.2A one as this motor kept getting really(!) hot. The 1.4A ones change the weight and size of the Nema so i thing there would be the need of an extra mount to keep it stable.
    Secondly there's also 2 variants of nema 14's. Mine have little "humps" of 2mm heigth so i had to modify the extruder body slightly. At the moment i'm running it just with a 2mm spacer. Seems to work well.

    Heated bed weight

    My heatbed construction consists of (from top to bottom) a glass bed, a 3mm aluminum plate, the heating bed itself, then the springloaded spacing system, another carriage plate and finaly the gantry plate. I finally managed to get it as solid as i wanted it and it's running smoothly - just the weight could be an issue (see y-axis skipping).

    To be done / Planned

    • Implementation of a probing System. I'm printing a mount i designed for the BL-Touch sensor right now. The Hall-o works fine for an end-stop - but as i gained the extra space i may as well use it (ツ)
    • Fine-Tuning currents or even upgrading the y-axis motor to a 1.2A one.
    • Creating another carriage for the 200x300 bed. As well as a "quick-print" carriage for a 120x120 bed i used in my M3D and gave me brilliant ABS results for small parts.
    • Listening to your ideas.
    • Being more patient.

    Images / Video



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Final words

    I really like to thank Simon here once again for all his work he had been putting in this as well as for his brilliant and constructive support via mail. I'd also like to thank the OpenBuilds community & you people!

    Let there be rock!
     
    Indieflow, mario and Bad Sequel like this.
  28. crystaldragon141

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    Here's a question. What if you got rid of the glass and put some pei film on the aluminum. The only disadvantage I can see is if your aluminum isn't very flat. Other wise that's a lot of weight you could eliminate. If you want to keep the glass you could take a hole saw to the aluminum top plate and strategically remove material you could easily cut half the weight without having any structural problems. I'd do similar but maybe less extreme on the lower aluminum plate. Just my 32 cents :)
     
  29. dieideeistgut

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    Thanks for your input here. Actually i thought a bit in this direction too - as this is just in a testing stage and i wanted to be sure about dimensions i came up with this heavy bed. Your solution seems to be the best - removing not needed areas but maintain structure. I just didn't want to use a pre-made y-gantry. Also i was thinking about keeping it kind of modular so - for example - it would be nice to have a "quick release" at some point to quickly change the bed.

    And yes, the alloy plates i use aren't exactly flat. Maybe that alone (and removing the glas) will do the trick.

    Thanks a lot for your input here :)
     
  30. crystaldragon141

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    Always glad to share my opinion. Looks like this time it was even appreciated haha. It would be really interesting if you weighed the different parts of your bed so that you could post statistics of how much weight total you are able to slim out.
     

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