Upgraded 3018 Pro using MGN15H Linear Rails and a 500w Spindle

Dear Derek, impressed by your upgrades and documentation! I decided to implement the Y axis upgrade on my standard size 3018. All details clear (will order 300mm lenght rails only), however wondering if the 2080 side increase is a must to have your setup - I mean the printed adapter & 2020 rail & MGN15H rails combo - will work smooth with standard machine hight as well? Appreciate your advise in advance, will wait with my purchase on your feedback.

 

Howdy thanks for the superfast assistance. I am goint to start the purchase and the rebuild, again. Not long ago implemented MGN12 rails on X axis with new Z carriage to the usual 500w chinese spindle.
Besides all that, a big thumbs up for sharing all your plans and videos, impressing indeed that we can build this little toy to work like a bit bigger beast.
Enjoy the day and keep in touch

 

@dJOS_500 I see that you recommend spring t-nuts. Is that for any special reason?
Need to get some to hold the rails and wondering if I get normal ones or that spring type.
Thanks

 

I agree with @dJOS_500 about the rotating T-nuts, they have a tendency of not rotating and locking in the vertical position especially when used for mounting linear rails with so many screws.

I went with the rotating ones but was rather disappointed when I used them for mounting two long y-axis 750mm linear rails.

For peace of mind go with [spam link removed. Visit openbuildspartstore.com instead] instead of the rotating which I think are very good for situations where it is not easy to slide in without needing to dismantle a plate.

 

Thanks all, ordered the spring type ones.

Also changed the idea I had for the Z axis and carriage.
Initial plan was to make my own, but realized that cost wise would end up close to buying one plus I'd have a problem to make the moving block.
So got this, this one is for NEMA23 but talked with the seller and they sending me one with NEMA17 hole spacing.
(went with 50mm effective travel because don't think I need 100mm)

 

I don't want to spend more into this at the moment. I have loads of NEMA17 but no NEMA23.

Plus I'd have to review the board/stepper drivers, the CNC came with a cheap woodpecker.
Really don't like it. So prefer to first invest into a more decent board (or convert one of the old 3D printer boards I have).

 

Ah got it. Yes there is no space for them directly, would require some mounts.

Have to check those couplers, mine came with those cheap flexible helical couplers, but I swap it right away for rigid ones.



Have some other type here to try.

 

Man, I know you how you love your Makita as as do I as a palm router and all the tinkering you do with it but at those speeds you are going to seriously damage your hearing, at some point even though it's only a super upgraded 3018 don't you think it deserves for your hearing sake a water called spindle and drop those DB's or do you have some sort of case that you can put round it?

I'm 62 now and I've lost about 35% of my hearing and that was just from basically 20+ years driving in the UK with the window down on one side and 20+ years living in Spain driving on the other side of the road with the window down and it's done that much damage so God knows what that is gonna do your hearing by the time you're my age.....

Keep up the good work, amazing what you're doing with that machine...

 

Hello Giarc, may I ask some picture of your suggested solution? Thank you in advance, would assist a lot. Cheers

 

This too a bit to start, In part due to lazyness, mistakes made and waiting for parts.
But finally the upgrade is progressing.

Have two SFU1204 ballscrews that were for another CNC project that never happened.
With a bit of fiddling and testing was able to fit them in both X and Y (along with the Z slider) making it all running with ballscrews.



I want to keep it at least locked in one side so had to design and 3D print an adaptor.


Tried to fit the ballscrew mounting blocks, that would lock it on both sides but it was far too messy, lots of drilling that I have no way to do and far too many adaptations. For this phase it goes like this more about it later.

As for the Y it asked for longer profiles but that also brings more work area.


Went from 300min to 400mm profiles, but the ballscrew fits perfectly.

Like this was easy to lock it in one side. Placing the pillow block on the inside.


First mistake was on the Z slide car.

Spindle mounting holes don't match, my mistake here.

Picked the 3D CAD, 30 minutes later got one done.


Printed and fitted, looks great but will be the weakest link.


As the CNC gets upgrade, hopefully have the rigidity to mill some aluminium, and I'll convert or create adaptors to avoid using 3D printed parts.

Currently I'm drawing the parts all in 3D CAD to rehearse the mounting of the Y axis MGN rails.
Have two ideas in mind that I want to test.



1. Cut 2020 profiles, bolt them where the rods where and fit the MGN on top
2. Mount the MGN on the sides

Option 1 is the ones I like the most, less loss of Z travel and less amount of 3D printed parts but those 2020 profiles will only be hold by 1 screw at each end.

 

Nice work!

Am I right to think that that you had a all metal version of the 3018 frame and you are expanding it?

With regards to the ball screws, if possible find a way to fit BK10 type supports, or use 3dp adaptation of the same.

I think the end result will be a very rigid small cnc machine.

 

Yes, it is (was) the so called 3018 Pro Max.
But material quality is quite poor, my goal was not to increase working area but to increase rigidity.

I did try to fit in the BK10, but it was far too messy.
So I decided to change the goals, first phase make an acceptably rigid build and with that mill the parts that I need for next phase.
I'd like to make new front/back and side plates that would allow me to easily fit a BK10 block.