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      1. Build Progress:
        • Build in Progress...
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      After a fairly long preparation phase I have decided to launch a distributorship for Scandinavia and Northern Europe for OpenBuilds parts and Stainless OX Gantry Plates. Check out makersupplies.dk and see the full range of OpenBuilds parts and Stainless OX Gantry Plates ready to be shipped directly to you from Denmark.

      ................................ Build Description .....................................

      It took some iteration before I found the right name for my build. To find something unique was difficult as we have a lot of variation over the theme OX. Initially I was thinking of using a letter in our alphabet that most of you guys do not have. That would have given us "The ØX".

      However, I got help from the outside.

      After milling the original OX plates in MDF for mock up purpose I finished my modifications to the drawings before sending them to a shop that could laser cut them in 6mm aluminum. The first set of plates came out ok - but not more than that. I asked the shop if this was the quality I should expect and they told me that "due to the good heat conducting properties of aluminum it was not unusual to see problems with the finer details - like small holes". Instead he recommended Stainless Steel as the best material for getting great finish from a laser cutter. Moreover, he would do it free of charge (I had paid for the aluminum plates).

      So here we are with some really nice plates in 4mm stainless steel for the "Stainless OX".

      Weight of 4mm SS is approximately double of 6mm aluminum. If I, at a later point in time decide to have more plates cut I will go for 3mm - to save cost and weight.

      I have added some extra holes here and there. Most of them are described by others in this forum. I will point out only a few: I have added some Ø12 eyes for mounting a proximity switch on the main plates and the corner plates. On the inner plates (from RobertsOX AL) I have added holes to ease tightening the stepper. The oval stepper hole is increased to fit NEMA 23 profile on all motor plates.
      The build will be fairly big. X 1200; Y 1500 and I will be using the dual belt configuration discussed on the Buffalo Build. I'm also planning to make a stationary/roller work table for the router that will have a jack up function to make it possible to roll the table around in the shop.

      All for now - else I will not get anything done on the build...

      The first thing I did was to experiment with the dual belt configuration (as discussed under the Buffalo build). I gathered my findings in the following video. As described, the Iower belt is fixed using 3M double sided tape. To keep the upper belt in place I have designed some belt clamps (file attached) :

      Next was to build the control box. The electronics has been sourced via Taobao.com and I got the proximity switches and DC/DC step down PCB from dx.com - both Chinese suppliers. It all looks ok and seems to work with Marc3 - I hope to prove this right later when the build is ready for testing. The wiring diagram can be found under Files. I made a (too long) video describing the build process.

      I got the slightly redesigned plates laser cut in 6mm aluminum. All plates were ok in size. However, small details like holes were not exact in size and the smallest was not cut. In this video I work on the plates and end up with a pretty nice result.

      After all my finishing work I did put together the carriages. The plates include some 12mm holes for limit switches. As there is no room for a long proximity switch for when the Z goes all the way up I also designed a Z-limit switch mounting plate for 3D printing.

      In this video You can see the result.

      A week later I talk with the guy that did the cutting for me and he explained that aluminum was not optimal for laser cutting finer details due to the high heat transfer (I agreed). He offered to cut the plates again in Stainless Steel at no additional cost for me - so not surprisingly - I accepted of course that offer. This became the turning point of my build be cause now I got a name - Stainless OX.

      The finished plates can be seen here:

      So with the new plates ready I have to redo the assembly of the gantry plates and the Z-gantry....

      However, I need to build a work table first to have a place to put the machine. I have designed a table that is stationary but can be jacked up on casters in order to move it in the shop. upload_2015-3-30_21-26-3.png
      You can find the Sketchup file under files for this build. I will make a short video describing the table in some detail. Here we go:

      Having completed the table I'm now ready for assembly. First step will be the gantry. The top row of four wheels can be a little tricky to align. I found the clamping two rails - one on top and one below the wheels - together secured good alignment during tightening of the screws. [picture posted under discussion]

      The two main carriages will have inner plats. As I'm using dual belt I need to be able to adjust the tension by moving the stepper. By adding three holes in the plates this is now possible (drawings updated with this). [picture posted under discussion]

      All parts of the gantry are now assembled. I will not document that under this build as the original OX build describes that very nicely w great detail. It's time to mount the Z-axis on the X-axis. This involves feeding the dual belt through the gantry over the X-stepper pulley. Some time ago I made a mock-up video but I decided to make an updated version. One of the things you should be aware of is to lower the stepper as much as possible before loading the belt. This will allow you max distance for later adjusting the belt tension. For details check out the video:

      With the X/Z gantry fully assembled the time has come to mount it on the two Y-axis rails. With the size of my build this is a two person operation and I will call my son in as assistant.

      To ease getting the belt through the gantry plates I added a plastic strip (cut from an Index card) to the end. This helped a lot. An alternative would of course be to cut the belt 20+cm longer than needed. For details see the short video.

      Having all belts in place and steppers appropriately adjusted to tighten the belts I'm ready to finalize the wiring. To keep the wires in place I used cable chains on X and Y. In the next video I show how it turned out:

      I'm now ready to power up the Stainless OX CNC. Mach3 must be configured to allow motors to run, steps/mm should be set for all axis and the homing and limits setup to be able to zero the machine and avoid damage. I'm using a 4-axis setup where A will be set to slave Y. I have spend some time on doing the setup and compiled my learning's in the following video:

      What a pleasure it was to see the machine fully operational. The dual belt configuration works great. It's obvious that the short belt that's not engaged with the lover belt makes the flex very low/non existing. Next I want to secure that the axis are fully calibrated. Calculated steps/mm is not always 100% right in reality. I will use long steel rulers, some items of known dimension (OpenBuilds 20x20 and 20x40) and a set of feeler gauges. I collected how it worked out here:

      Please note that if you, like I, have dual steppers on one of the axis with on of the running as slave you have to copy/paste the step/mm value that you get from calibrating the main axis. MAch3 only change the value for the main axis - not the slave!!

      Having the calibration done it's now time for some cutting!! I will continue by making the Work surface and spoil board. The Work surface will be 22mm MDF. It is mounted on five 20x40 rails in the Y-direction. I have drilled countersunk Ø5.5mm holes all the way round and fix it to the rails using T-nuts. It's just resting on the three middle rails. In the work surface I have drilled 9 Ø7mm holes and put a threaded 5mm insert in. These are used for holding down the spoil board. The spoil board has a pattern of threaded inserts for mounting material as well as a pattern in X/Y direction for making it easy to align. Right before I made the pattern I did surface the spoil board to secure that it was parallel with the machine. The Sketchup file for the boards can be found in the File section. You can see the progress in this video:

      In the SketchUp file with the Stainless OX plates I have also put a zero/corner/center finding tool (3 pieces). I have now put it together and installed a screen set in Mach3 to support zero and corner finding. In the next video I have collected some of the stuff I learned doing this.

      I finally managed to get a set of dust shoes made. It's a compilation of what many others also have made. The fixed part is a 3mm acrylic plate with a 3D printed stud to connect the vacuum and some magnets to hold the detachable part with the skirt. This I made out of 6mm MDF. As skirt I used cutting foam. I did some experiments on how long the fingers, in the foam, should be. The longer the more flexible. However, long fingers also tend to get sucked into the vacuum hole and stay there. So I ended up with a compromise of 20mm long. In order to cover different working heights I made 4 in total.

      A short video on the work is here:

      After having used SketchUp and SketchUCam or V-Carve for a while someone made me aware of the integrated CAD/CAM (and more) program, Fusion 360. The program is free for hobbyists and very comprehensive. I have spend some time learining and are now a big fan. To show how I used it to design a simple project and make the tool paths for milling it on the Stainless OX I have gathered my learnings in the following video.

      Mounting a 43mm spindle like Kress, Bosch or Proxxon has been problematic as no available fixtures are available for the V-slot system. I have recently made a plate that fit on the z-axis 20x60 profile and allow mounting a 43mm bracket that can be found on the net. The design can be found under files as a .STEP file. The bracket can also be sourced from the shop mentioned at the top. Check it out in this short video:

      To be continued…..
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  • Build Details

    Build License:
    • CC - Attribution - CC BY

    Reason for this Build

    Having build the ShapeOko I quickly realize that I need something bigger and more robust to do "real" projects.

    Inspired by

    Inspired by OX, OX AL, Buffalo and experience with my first Shapeoko build
  • Parts list

    Qty Part Name Part Link Comments
    2 20x80mm V-rail 1500mm long Link Y-axis
    5 20x40mm V-rail 1460mm long Link Work surface support
    2 20x60 V-rail 1200mm long Link Main beam X-axis
    1 20x40mm V-rail 1200 long Link Support beam X-axis
    1 20x60mm V-rail 200mm long Link Z-axis
    2 20x40mm V-rail 1240mm long Link Front and back frame in the X-direction
    1 Set of Stainless plates and belt clips (6) Link Sketchup file in File section
    30 Corner Bracket http://openbuildspartstore.com/cast-corner-bracket/?page_... Link For mounting the 5 Work surface support (20), cabel chain L profile (2) and X-beams (8)
    28 Xtreme Solid V wheel http://openbuildspartstore.com/xtreme-solid-v-wheel-kit/?... Link
    32 Spacer 6mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/aluminum-spacers/?page_con... Link
    11 Eccentric Spacer 6mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/eccentric-spacer/?page_con... Link
    40 Precision Shim 1mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/precision-shim-10x5x1mm/?p... Link
    9 GT2-3mm Timing Blet http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt3-timing-belt-by-the-foo... Link 4x1570mm, 2x1270mm
    3 Spacer 40mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/aluminum-spacers/?page_con... Link
    2 Spacer block http://openbuildspartstore.com/spacer-block/?page_context... Link
    12 M3x15mm Link Mounting belt clips
    10 M5x8mm Link
    10 M5x10mm Link
    40 M5X12mm Link
    80 M5x16 Link
    20 M5x45mm Link
    7 M5x65mm Link 3 of these for the Z-stepper can be 55mm
    70 T-nuts http://openbuildspartstore.com/tee-nuts-25-pack/?page_con... Link
    30 M5 Locknut http://openbuildspartstore.com/nylon-insert-hex-locknut/?... Link
    30 M5 Nut Link
    2 Lock Collar http://openbuildspartstore.com/lock-collar/?page_context=... Link
    1 ACME Rod 230mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw... Link
    1 ACME Block http://openbuildspartstore.com/nut-block-for-8mm-metric-a... Link
    2 Bearing 8x16x5 http://openbuildspartstore.com/ball-bearing-688z-8x16x5/?... Link
    1 Coupler 1/4X8mm http://openbuildspartstore.com/1-4-x-8mm-flexible-couplin... Link
    4 NEMA 23 Stepper http://openbuildspartstore.com/nema-23-stepper-motor/?pag... Link
    4 Proximity switch Ø12mm http://www.dx.com/p/lj12a3-4-z-bx-inductive-proximity-swi... Link others can be used
    1 Micro Switch http://www.dx.com/p/electrical-power-control-2-pin-micro-... Link other can be used
    1 15x40mm aluminum L-profile 1000mm long Link to carry the X cable chain
    2 Cable chail 15x30mm 1000mm long Link bigger can be used
    3 GT3 Pulley http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt3-aluminum-timing-pulley... Link
    220 M5 Steel Tee Nut http://openbuildspartstore.com/steel-tee-nut-for-wood/?pa... Link
    1 20mm MDF 1500x1110mm Link MAin work surface
    1 12mm MDF 1200x1000mm Link Spoil board
    15 4 conductor wire 15 meters Link depend on you setup
    8 3 conductor wire 8 meters Link depend on you setup
    4 2 conductor wire 4 meters Link depend on you setup
    1 Stepper controller box including PSU Link
  • Attached Files:

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