Simple cartesian style CNC. Uses ACME screws for all 3 axes, 20x40 v-slots and should have 50cm x 50cm x 50cm work volume.

The QuadRap 3D printer version based on OpenBuilds wheels. Born in https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/103539262895202172380

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

Hell Yeah

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer. My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

My version a Cartesian style 3d printer, an attempt to eliminate frame vibration and movement and to use up materials left over from other projects.

Mega-sized Taz machine. Supports many tools (extrusion, laser, mill, etc) simultaneously.

Hello ! This is my very first OpenBuilds build. It's based on the Maximus 3D Printer, published by mytechno3d : good source of inspiration !

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design. I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

Functional real-world 3D printer build with RM2-2RS bearings in routed V grooves on phenolic resin rails (lab countertop scraps) and NSK 25mm linear rails/trucks.

We are introducing the Cairo30 3d-printer! It’s our new premium creature with no compromises! The Cairo30 3d-printer is the culmination of our accumulated years of experience designing and producing open-source CNC machines kits.

Multi-tool 3D printer, laser cutter, and CNC mill.

OpenBuilds box type printer using min-v-wheels for X & Y axis. Designed for plexiglas panel enclosure of build area.

This is a work in progress 3D printer Dimensions are 230x230x340mm height. Print dimensions are: 135x135x160mm. Prototype has a bowden extruder with a J-head hotend. Assembly instructions: http://reprapstyle.blogspot.pt

You are about to read the evolution of my 3d Printer build.

I am building a H bot style printer so this design will not be finished any more than it is.

I like this design a lot. It's very stable, very strong and with the EX2 enhancements, it prints like a champ.

A minimum parts build with belt driven Z-axis.

This is Fina; My Lautr3k inspired build.

A Laut3k derivative that goes for volume and large number of print materials at the same time. Using OpenBuild linear motion systems to get away from belt drives.

This a redesign of the Folger-Tech Y-Carriage using the Solid V-Wheels, Ball Bearings, the V-Slot Rail System.

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa). (for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

After use of the i3 Prusa 200x200x180, the volume increases to 300x300x450 on the V-Slot and driven by a Megatronics V3

Simple design with a large build volume - 450x450x450

tronxy x3 like

In-progress 500x500x1800

A 200mm x 300mm x 200mm workhorse that never needs leveling due to Posi-Drive Leveling design.

a dual extruder build using direct drive for flexible filaments

This is my 1st submission to openbuilds.com and my 1st venture into building a 3D Printer. The Phoenix 3d Printer is a kit from Ez3D, a company based out of Colorado, started and backed by successful Kick-starter and IndieGogo campaigns. The Phoenix 3d Printer kit is currently backlogged 10 to 12 weeks which means quite a wait. I will be chronicling my experience with this kit as I get it done.

T-slot, v-slot, aluminum angle make up the majority of the structure.

Custom build, after building the prusa i3 and upgrading to i3v, I wanted to build something more sturdy that can print fast and more accurate. Model is built in Fusion 360

My first custom build, using vslot rails for Z and Y and 8mm rails for X. Currently printing parts for this using my Prusa I3. The build volume will be roughly 300mm^3, X and Y are belt driven with 8mm acme lead screws for Z. Will be uploading more info shortly as i continue to build the printer.

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...