High Quality CoreXY with focus on quality and optimized printarea versus physical size of the printer.

This is my latest printer build. The second printer I've built using V-Slot.

My first printer! I went for a simple cartesian design, based on evilc66 one. It uses 1000 mm C-beam linear actuators. The build volume is 700x700x700 mm^3.

I wanted a machine that could easily switch between 3D Printing and Laser Engraving

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

I wanted to try a different way of operating the Z Axis so I setup a tower using 40x40. In the end it worked excellently and can easily print 60mm/s with 150mm/s travels. The coreXY is a very cool kinematic, and you can get some pretty great speed and accuracy. The main issue is the fact your Steps/mm are doubled, so the lower end motors don't like it at high speeds.

Fast, Large build area, CoreXY design

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

My goal is to upgrade the acrylic ANET A8 to all metal.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

Modified Tevo

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

This design should give the same performance as the high speed Ultimaker since it uses a similar ultra-light X/Y concept which eliminates any movement of both the X and Y motors to achieve X/Y travel.

A smaller version of a standard D-bot. Smaller to fit better in my workable area and to fit my vision for the printer.

A simplified version of the TrueUp LZ. Designed for classrooms and students

Lord willing I will be showing you how build a robust and easy to build 3D printer framework using V-Slot rails and rollers. It's a little bulky, but it has all spring tensioned rollers on all axes, and can be built entirely without custom machining on any parts. You will need digital calipers, a drill press, a carbide toothed miter saw for cutting aluminum extrusions, and lots of little screws!

This is a breakdown of how I designed the UltiFaker 2 Go as well as how I machined and assembled it. I'll include a complete BOM and all of the drawings and prices.

Taller and wider MendelMax 1.5 spinoff

What a way to learn about 3D printing

High quality e3d parts with a minimalist design

A Large Printer that will hopefully be able to print at least 45cm cubed

CoreXZ implementation on 3d printer using Openbuild and RobotDigg parts.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

This is my first attempt at building my own 3d printer.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

The QuorXZ doesn't magically appear. It's gestation takes time, careful attention, and requires many parts. However, when it is ready, a magical, mechanical instrument is born....(and when you finally say its name, it sounds a little bit like "corks").

First CoreXY. Simple Square build, hopes for faster movements.

My first construction after many years buys ready devices.

just wanted to share my build of a huge 3d printer. It stands just over 2 meters tall and has a total print area of around 850mm x 850mm.

Building a Delta-6 variant, using recycled parts from a WolfStock Delta printer.

A Large CoreXY build that can just barely get in through a doorway, aiming for under $1000. Build Volume approximately 18in x 24in x 26in.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds. I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer. I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine. Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

Building upon the great work done by Marshall Peck and others. I have started a new build.

A stout 3D printer build with the hopes of being able to serve as a light mill (PCB) and laser engraver

Polar Bot which used to depress buttons

Super rigid Delta printer, using 20X40 V-Slot

A steel framed 3D printer using a similar design with my CNC Router.

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build. I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis. The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

im just starting and the size of this is 1.5 meter from base to end

This is an inexpensive build, large volume 2225 cubic inch, CORE XY 3D printer providing decent speed with precise and repeatable precision with expandable features.

CoreXY build

This project is focused on developing a low-cost, portable and open-source FDM 3D Printer.

The plan is to make this a fairly stock D-Bot build. We'll see if mods start creeping in.

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

Mid range build.

Wanna quet an nice looking device done by my hands

CoreXY cube with 600x600x800 volume.

A cartesian build with a build dimension of 200x200x750mm. I will be using a dual extruder, heated build plate, and a screw drive for the z axis.

A DIY 3D printer. At beginning made from aluminium profiles, aluminium sheet and wood :)

The build is based on a 500mm C-Beam and the SeeMeCNC FlexVat. The C-Beam is both the linear motion and a structural element of the design. The frame that holds the 45 degree first surface mirror and the build vat can slide up and down the C-Beam to accommodate projectors with lenses at different elevations.

A brief write up of the making of the FLSUN Delta Kit. This kit is based on an open source design. I had a need for a 3D printer without the desire to dive into another project, so a kit was the obvious way to go. I already have a delta printer in the works and so this is more of a stop gap in the interim.

CoreXY printer

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

Large scale True 500x500x500 build volume 3D printer.

It all started after my prusa i3 build inspired me to experiment with resin 3D printers because I want to learn if they are worth it and if I can design my own printer.

Based on the work of Carl Feniak and his C-Bot. A robust Core XY style 3D printer that has a clean parallel belt implementation and whose dimensions are adaptable to meet builder's needs. The use of open builds V-slot and other open hardware make customization easy. Utilizing a 300x300 build plate this derivation utilizes three lead screws, synced to a single motor via gt2 belt

Simple design with a large build volume - 450x450x450

Delta printer designed in sketchup and includes an adjustable bed.

Concept for a Prusa i3 made from Cbeam Extrusion. X & Y using GT2 Belts, Z using Acme Screws Goal is to build a simple. and very Solid Printer Single Z Motor to keep the Z Screws in Sync. (Might require Geared Nema 17) 12" x 12" x 12" Build volume Nema 17's

Work in progress large volume CoreXY printer

I will be attending the 2017 Midwest RepRap Festival (MRRF) with a small team of printer enthusiasts with a goal to fully assemble a Core-XY D-bot onsite during the event. This is our first attempt at building a D-bot and we will be learning things as we go. Our hope is to have the entire machine assembled, wired, and functional (at least to the setup and testing phase) before the end of the show. Please attend and watch us in person or visit our feed channel during/after the event.

A humble first time attempt at building a 3d printer from scratch

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

Total belt drive GT2

This build is inspired by the Lulzbot Taz printers and makes use of the new OpenBuilds C-Beam

A Prusa i3 design running on Open Build's mini V wheels

How to modularize the 3D Systems Cube 3 extruder nozzle.

My first project build. Concept build to use an existing 7.5 ft tall server rack as the frame. This ptoject may never be completed.

I need a large build plate without spending 10-20k for a "store" built printer.

The build area will be fully enclosed. I anticipate using primarily ABS, and have interest in the soluble support materials as well. The main components to date include: OPENBUILDS - 3 x C-Beam™ Linear Actuator Bundle, 1000 mm, w/ Included NEMA23 Motor) Extruders (3) - [Sintron] 1.75mm Mini All Metal MK8 Extruder Hot End - reprap diamond Control board - RUMBA Stepper drivers - DRV8825 StepStick Power supply - eTopxizu 12v 30a

in construction ! chassis vslot 80x20 & 20x20 & 60x80 (Z) home made plates with whells polycarbonate build volume environ, 750x300x200 2 ed3d v6 volcano nozzles 0.8mm & 0.6 + titan extrudeurs rumba bord + auto levelling ip camera home made heat bed aluminium 5mm + glass + heat air chamber 6 doors plexiglass......

Modular easy to adjust scale of the entire build Tablet/LCD monitor SLA 3d Printer.

ELECTRONICS - ARDUINO Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 + power supply 12V - Leadshine DM 5042 external driver + Power supply 36V + NEMA 23 stepper motor SOFTWARE - Repetier Host to communicate with the Ramps - ARDUINO to upload the firmware (Marlin) MECANIC - V-Slots rails 40x40 + home-made plates - everything goes fine on the side of the build

A New Core XY Printer build. BAFP stands for Big And Fast Printer. It will be awesome !!

I have been working on this project for something like 3 years on and off, sometimes leaving it for a few months. Now I really want to finish it. For me, the mechanical part was the easy (though long) part because I get to use about 17 CNC machines and MasterCAM and I am a machinist. The hard part is the electronics part. Had a few problems getting Windows to communicate to the X5 Mini via the USB cable but found something on the Smoothie forum and got the machine moving.

Combines the layout factor of a CoreXY while using Cartesian logic. The design has a fixed build plate - moving an X/Y frame on the Z axis enclosed by an outer main frame.

HE3D K200 kit build

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

This printer will leverage scrap pieces around the shop to fulfill a single print's needs. It will use a combination of 80/20, OpenBuilds, and 3D printed parts.

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that... This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

This is going to be a more or less detailed how to build BetterBot. Pictures and more (decent) text are to be added.

History about making 3d printer.

Please, look over my build and make any recommendations you can think of! I haven't figured out how long my arms need to be yet. Nor have I done any shopping around to find better prices...

This 1500mm tall Delta is a work in progress. The triangle corners are water jetted from 1" 6061 Aluminum, and are welded to 1" square tubing. The 1500mm OpenBuilds 20x20 V-Slot extrusions are held into the corner brackets by two stainless steel set screws per bracket. This printer will need to be reinforced with wall brackets due to the combination of height/materials.

Dual X-Carriage CoreXY. Not impossible, but probably the only one. Use the link to Thingiverse "Hlidskjalf" for parts and downloads.

A light 3D printer made of OpenBuilds hardware only

This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

Building a Core XY printer with a fixed build plate from off the shelf parts.

You are about to read the evolution of my 3d Printer build.

A full scalable 3D Printer , with a big printing area. Build with openbuild parts from www.vslot-europe.com

The Roberta Clementine a proof of concept and progenitor to the series of printers I will be calling the Clementine Sisters. The printer is named after Pittsburgh Pirates baseball player Roberto Clemente. Although it is more accurate to say the printer is named after the school I work for which is named after Clemente the Roberto Clemente Charter School. http://www.myrccs.com Roberta is the first and not really built to last but instead built to test ideas and to produce the parts for successors

This project shows how to use Openbuilds Vv slot extrusions and wheels to retrofit a Lulzbot Taz 4 or 5 printer. These modifications improve layer consistency, eliminate nozzle and bed sag, and allow for larger toolhead mounting. Project updates and newer accessory files may be located at http://www.thingiverse.com/piercet/designs

We plan experiment on nylon 3 D printing;

This is Adamantine, a all aluminum lead screw driven 3d printer. I wanted to have a printer that would not be effected by the heat or humidity I have here as my current wood frame printer is.

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa). (for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

Watercooled 3D printer

Corexy, with possible head change (3d, cnc, laser)

The Prusa i3 (iteration 3) is the newest and most current 3D Printer design by RepRap Core Developer Prusajr (source: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3)