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TrueUp Kit Version

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Consult the Build Tab. Today I added files for Version 2 (5/12). Files listed below pictures

    Version 2 has beefed up mounts for the Z screws, a streamlined extruder, the control box with control board on the bottom with box top being easily removed for maintenance.
     
  2. Reanimator2k

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    Hello again.
    Elmo thank you i'll try to combine something from your design and kit design.
    Keith, thank you! Printed and assembled new Z screw mounts. But have a "play" between this parts:
    glides.jpg
    They rotating a little. Do i printed them wrong? I can fix this by drilling extra holes for another setscrews to fix them rock solid, but i can print them with little scaling to fit them tight.

    Made my build plate from Aluminium Composite Panel like this. costs me only 7,5$
    Here are some photos:
    AlCo1.png AlCo2.png
    Maybe will be useful as alternative to aluminium plate.
     
  3. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    I had this issue too when I printed them. Tried the scaling, but that also increases the cutout that holds the nylon rod and had the same wobble. Ended up using OpenSCAD to expand out the edges, keeping the same taper but increasing the width.

    Code:
    translate([-0.0188, -0.02365, 0]) import("Bushing - kit.stl", convexity=10);
    
    translate([0, -0.51, 0]) intersection()
    {
        translate([-0.0188, -0.02365, 0]) import("Bushing - kit.stl", convexity=10);
        cube([45, 3, 10]);
    }
    
    translate([0, 0.51, 0]) intersection()
    {
        translate([-0.0188, -0.02365, 0]) import("Bushing - kit.stl", convexity=10);
        translate([0, 18, 0]) cube([45, 3, 10]);
    }
    
    I used S3D to separate the part from the STL file. I'm attaching it for completeness and so you will have the same part that fits the offsets I used.

    I also had to trim the bottom edge to get it to fit right. First layer squishing down and being wider. I use one of these. Quick and easy.

    Cobra PST090 Deburring Tool - Deburr Tool - Amazon.com
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Reanimator2k

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    Thank you Elmo! Will try to reprint new ones and fit them tight.
     
  5. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    you may need to adjust the 0.51 and -0.51 to fit your parts.
     
  6. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Print the glide body (with cavity) and the bushing inserts on the same print, with the width of the cavity and width of the insert being both set by the Y axis travel. That way, regardless of how close your printer is calibrated, the cavity and insert get the same variation. Guaranteed, if you print the cavity width set by Y travel and insert width by X travel, you will get a mis-match.

    Have you had a chance to mount the aluminum sandwich build plate? Is the aluminum film strong enough to take the pressure when setting the eccentric spacers and how well do the holes it hold up to usage. Also, what saw blade did you use for trimming the size to get a clean edge? I'm truly amazed that no one offers a 216x216 blank build plate and am always on the lookout for a plate where I'm not paying double for some idiotic 20 holes punched in it. The only thing I can find are 2mm thick which are to thin for the eccentric
     
  7. Reanimator2k

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    Hello Elmo. I added +0,4mm to each side and get a very tight fit, Thank You.

    Hello Keith. The thing why i wanted to build TrueUP is my "never calibrated enough Wanhao i3" I want to build TrueUP, print all parts again and reassemble it.

    I assembled it to try how it will work, and it worked perfectly, no damage to holes from eccentric spacers (and i tight them more than enough), but nylon nuts are pressing aluminium a little, but fender washer will fix it. Also it 4mm (+1mm thickness) so i need longer screws for wheels and to mount heat bed. Overhanged 2/3 from the desc and put 4,5kg to the edge. The edge goes 3,5-4mm down.
    About how the plate was made. It's CNC milled on portal CNC mill. The Agencies of outdoor advertising often have both, portal CNC mill and aluminium composite (i used their CNC mill to made my plate). 7,5$ is the price that includes milling.
    Here are some photos:
    Eccentrics tightened to max
    Plate1.png

    Holes after
    disassembling
    Plate2.png
    Scratches are from needle file.
     
  8. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    I am using a Duet 0.8.5 controller for my build and have discovered it is hardwired to 1/16 microstepping, which doesn't fit with the philosophy of the printer design. As a possible solution, I was thinking I could over come this by homing the Z axis, which could stop on a microstepping, and then turn off the power to the motor off then on. This should force the motor to a full step position. Since a full step translates to 0.02mm, the change in height would be less than that amount.

    Would this work, or am I way off base with my thinking? Any other possible solutions?
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I use 1/8 microstepping on Z & E0 which produces smooth enough movement but with more power than 1/16. So I pondered this first layer landing too. But, then I realized I was overthinking the situation.

    The reason for one motor is because a motor will frequently land on a full step instead of a microstep. My gearing produces 0.005 per step, yours 0.02. 1/6th or even 1/8th of 0.20 is insignificant, unless you are using two motors. With two motors that difference on one motor but not the other would put them out of sync - and on the Z axis screw that is cumulative. So back to the problem at hand. I use Marlin soft-landing when homing (down, then up 5mm, then slow decent) so I get two opportunities for landing on a step instead of a microstep. Then I use .4 first layer height, 1/8th of 0.02 is infinitesimally small. And it really doesn't matter if it takes 5 layers or so to land on a full step, the difference is going to be infinitesimally small, the amount of squish against the bed on your first layer is going to vary way more than that. But once it does land on a full step, it will continue to do so.

    In other words, this problem exists only in an algorithm, but in practice (Using only one motor) it's undetectable. Quit worrying about it.
     
  10. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Thanks. Worry ended. :)
     
  11. Rodsa

    Rodsa New
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    Hi Keith,
    New to 3D printing (have finished constructing mine) and I came across this site and your TrueUp design....
    Wow...just amazing...the amount of research I have done on how to minimise Z-Axis getting uneven or how to quickly re-level is substantial...then I look at your solution and it blows my mind with its simplicity!
    I am now in the position of modding my current printer just to print well enough to print out the parts to modify it into your TrueUp design.
    I am sure I will be annoying you all at some stage with some newbie question...however thank you in advance!
     
  12. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Annoy away, that's what this forum is all about!

    Like you, I too studied ways to combat level creep, thinking of building my own concept. But I realized everything out there treats the result of level creep but no one treated the cause. I had my old 2 Z motor BldrBot. I unplugged one motor, drilled out the brackets at the top to fit bearings in the holes and around the 6mm Z screws, drilled out 2 5mm ID pulleys to 6mm and mounted those on my 6mm Z screws under the bearings to hold these bearings in the bracket holes. I did not have a close looped belt the right size, but I had 50 lbs fishing line. I wrapped the line around each pulley, tied a knot and added an idler to tighten it. After adjusting the two screws to the same height, I had the prototype of a trueup. That setup, with unplugged motor and fishline, has been printing over 10,000 hours (3 yrs) with never a leveling issue. It's actually my most trusted printer, a Click-Print-And-Walk-Away.

    BTW there is a poor-man's-solution to doing this, w/no belt, w/two Z axis motors. Before I settled on cobbling up the single motor/ belt idea, I read tech on microstepping and realized it's impossible to sync two motors running any microstepping. so I just changed both Z axis motors to full steps. Once leveled the X axis stayed level over 200 hours and dozens of prints. But MAN oh MAN, that full stepping is noisy and instantaneous, producing quite a jerk. But if that's not annoying, it causes no harm, and is a poor-man's-solution. The main reason I changed to the belt was for marketing - 1) there was a visible something different to point to 2) if you just tell customers "oh we fixed that leveling problem down at the theory level" and then give them a jerky, noisy machine, they'll think you're nuts.

    Before getting too far into it, take a look at the Assembly Manual for more detail on what an upgrade would need.
    http://dev.3dwrx.com/TrueUp/Kit-Manual2/index.html
     
    Rodsa likes this.
  13. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I think I've found what I want to change to for the build plate - 12"x12"x 1/4" (.250") ABS PLASTIC SHEET. It cuts easily on a table saw to 214mm square and drilled holes are clean. 1/4" is rigid enough so camming the eccentrics creates no bend on the plate (1/8" allowed a slight bend) and camming the eccentrics had no effect on the eccentric holes. heat bed is at least 1'4" above it so that's not a problem. And turning the textured side up is a great finish. Plus, I've just put 3mm threaded holes in the corners, so I do spring adjustment from the top with no need for a nut on the bottom. So far it works great. $12 by the each and $8.50 in 8/pk.
     
  14. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    Where did you get them from?
     
  15. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    By each
    Amazon.com: 12"x12"x 1/4" (.250") ABS PLASTIC SHEET TEXTURED FRONT SMOOTH BACK VACUUM FORMING THERMOFORMING BLACK: Office Products
    By 8 pk
    ABS BLACK Plastic Sheet 12" X 12" X .250 (1/4") (Qty:8) | eBay

    I am converting my 6 workshop printers over to 214mmx314mm beds so I can get 8+ hour print jobs and a 12"x24" can be cut for those. Another thing I really liked was how the table saw handled the cuts - now chaff - it all went into the bag below the blade (used 84 tooth aluminum blade) That means I can bring that table saw inside for the winter instead of out in my unheated shop!!
     
  16. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    $4.95 shipping for the Amazon one ($8.62 - Total $13.57). $25.09 shipping for the eBay one ($39.22 - Total $64.31 or $8.04 each). Ouch. That seems a lot for plastic when the 1/8" aluminum plate is under $14 with free Prime shipping.
     
  17. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Whoa. Kydex 100 0.125" is better price (5.30 ea), more rigid than ABS, and works. When wheels are adjusted tight it has less than .5mm bow in the center - which actually "pre-loads tension" on the wheels against the rail slots.
    Pk of 4 Amazon.com: Kydex 100 Plastic Sheet 1/8" x 12" x 12" - Calcutta Black (4 Pack): Industrial & Scientific
     
  18. Elmo Clarity

    Elmo Clarity Journeyman
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    That looks like a better price. The prices I showed was for the links you gave. Did you pay that much or has the price/shipping gone up?
     
  19. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I think I rounded off price/shipping.

    One thing about using Kydex is to use 100 grade, not X or Y grade. It's stiffest.
     
  20. Reanimator2k

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    That's interesting, will try that on 200x200 design.
     
  21. Arda Ozkaymakci

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    I Can't Download assambled 5/12 verison of it :(
     
  22. Reanimator2k

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  23. Arda Ozkaymakci

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  24. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  25. vonsy

    vonsy New
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    Hi Keith,

    Nice build :) i want to build one but i would like to use ACME lead screw.

    Is it possible to draw the glide bodies for 20X20 that support ACME lead screw ?

    Thank you so much

    Regards.
     
  26. JackNorris

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    Progressing my build slowly, but have questions regarding the nylon nuts in the glide bodies.
    Mine seem to have a bit of play - not sure what is normal in this case.

    The nuts themselves are a snug fit in the glide body but the threaded rod seems a bit loose in the nut, resulting in a very slight dead zone when turning the rod. Any ideas?
     
  27. JackNorris

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    Yeah I know what it is, haha.

    I was assuming this design had already taken care of it, perhaps with the nylon nuts. I was just concerned that perhaps the nylon nuts or rod that I have are slightly out of tolerance and are causing me trouble.
     
  28. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Jack, take your nylon nuts down to the hardware store and try them on various M8 bolts from the bolt bins. If they fit them snugly, your Z screws are defective. If they are loose, the nuts are defective. The reason the design uses nylon nuts is that nylon nuts are purposefully manufactured to be tight since they will deform to fit. Usually I have to run a M8 tap through mine to loosen them up a bit. I got the idea from OpenBuilds' backlash-free nut block for acme lead screws. Nut Block for 8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw

    Another thing to consider is the dimensional quality of your Z screws. Use ONLY stainless steel threaded rod. Zinc coated threaded rods use a different die with a minutely smaller diameter that theoretically gets filled in with zinc galvanization.
     
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    That all depends on how you plan to "nut" that screw. Look back over this discussion earlier, this subject has been covered with numerous perspectives and examples.
     
  30. vonsy

    vonsy New
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    Hi

    Just finish mine :)



    Thank's Keith
     

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