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Discussion in '3D printers' started by Oderbang, Dec 6, 2015.
Quick test. Guess which one is the 200 micron print and which one the 70 micron print:
Those are gorgeous prints. How did you mount your extruder? Do you have a link to the file used for the mount?
Its a stock printer, havent modified it yet!
Oh, well nice prints anyway. What are they for?
I'm looking for inspiration for converting mine to Ramps/Marlin. Both of my cartridges crapped out on me at the extruder. I hate that design so much! Completely unserviceable, especially if the filament breaks near the "hot end".
I guess I had luck with the first cartidge, 0% already and 0 clogs...
Truth is there're quite some grams still inside the cartridge and not only that but neither Cubify software nor the printer warned me of insufficient filament left when i launched the print via wifi
Wait until you have you have the filament break just before it heads down into the extruder. I loved it, too, before I heard the dreaded clicking. Once I get my big printer calibrated, this thing is getting reworked to use a proper Bowden setup with a spare hexagon hot end I've got lying around. Marlin and RAMPS FTW.
keep us posted on the wiki.
btw no one claimed the 70micron print yet hehe
Guys, if somebody was doing the reverse engineering of the printer, can somebody please send me the contents of the SD card? I would really appreciate it.
What version are you wanting, Kiza?
Well no one cares, just my .02 - printing in 70micron with a cube3 stock is a loose of time, money and filament as it produces WORST prints than the 200 micron version. You cant barely notice the layers when on hand (remember photos maximize the banding you see!) and given the Cube "jumps" so many times on 70 micron vs 200 micron, this leads to more "errors" between layers' positions, hence you can notice filament depositions are irregular and leave three times trail traces on the surface as you can see above. The FIRST pic is 70 micron while the SECOND print is 200 micron.
Ie. TO SUMMARIZE: NEVER PRINT ON 70 micron USING STOCK CUBE3!
I've already got mine working with Marlin/RAMPS.
How are you planning to attach a different hotend onto this thing??? I'm sick of the filament breakage/clogs.
I'm close to just trashing both of my Cube printers and buying a kit. I spend so much time opening the cartridges to unclog this thing.
Yesterday I had 4 cartridges clog while using the stock version of the printer. From now on I'm only going to use the Marlin modified one, atleast with that version from the front menu I can heat the hotend to the max temperature and then keep pushing the filament through it until it unclogs.
If you change out the Hotend, please oh please post your journey here.
got pics of your ramped one?
Any will do, but latest (1.14 if I'm not mistaken) will be better
also mind uploading. your Marlin anywhere?
I posted the pics of my machine on the 4th tab of this thread. I also used the marlin file from the original poster, the only difference is that I installed endstops on my cube and added that to the code. The Original Poster should get full credit for his work and his file is fine for 99% of the people doing the conversion, just make sure you change the board type in configuration.h to match your board.
I'm planning on using this object drawn up by a guy who converted his v1 Cube: CUBIFY CUBE Titan Extruder Mount by KaTZWorld .
I will print it and try the mod. I don't want to lose all the unnecessary plastic around the frame of the printer, it makes the printer look like its not a totally piece of junk. I also want to keep it a dual extruder machine.
I am itching to get inside mine for some tinkering when time frees up bit.
I have 1.14B loaded. Just know that one of the files does look at a hardware ID which makes one of the files unique.
I do not know if the information is encrypted or not.
The chip is easy to get to once open. Is yours corrupt?
I'm just doing some reverse engineering on the firmware. The contents of the SD would be helpful.
I hear ya, but i think it can be done. With some "minor" cutting.
That rules out direct drive. I'd love to find a way to do it without moving the stepper motors in each side.
Does anyone know of an extruder that will work with the square-shaft Nema 14s used in the Cube3? I suppose, worst come to worst, the extruder a from the cartridges could be extracted and repurposed.
Care to share your process on the new Cube 3 printer forum?
We -really- want to disable the write-2-cart function!
I surely will, so far not much to share, digging through the firmware itself, successfully loaded it to IDA, but I don't understand the logic yet. Pretty new to PIC32. Also trying to run the firmware in the emulator. I'm hesitant to open my printer at the moment, so if anybody has the image of the internal SD card, sharing it would help a lot. Once I have any progress, I will post it for sure.
Working it on the Cube3 forum...
I've also seen a SDK for Windows 10 for this printer.
It is part of 3D-Builder in Windows.
I suspect that too will give you some of the system hooks.
So what's supposed to be in the internal SD? I thought it stored the firmware as well?
There is like a dozen files on the drive. One is an XML that maintains the firmware version. There is a config file... and a hardware-ping type file that maintains the serial number.
Some are binary. The Firmware file is renamed to a common name when it is put on the drive. It maintains the .AR extension.
Silly question, is there a cable we can use to extend the SD bus to somewhere more remote?
I could see a port that you can plug in whatever firmware you want at any time.
anyhow why do you all need to switch to other firmwares? the greatest thing would be a new firmware to tune the faults in the stock one and of course allow other file formats than the Cube3, not to mention the filament hack
Testing filament hacks is one reason to want to change firmware. Another may be to see what changed between versions to see how they plugged backdoor leaks.
So far, firmware downgrades are the only thing that is a proven chip hack. Even that is somewhat illusively explained.
but the physical filament hack with the switch works on any firmware, hence?
Are we not still waiting for confirmation that the system isn't writing on the right side cartridge?
So far, only the "insufficient filament" notice is rumored to work.
I still have my printer remembering old cartridges and rewriting them.
I wish I had the time to play with these.