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ooznest OX CNC Machine

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Ryan Lock, Apr 28, 2015.

  1. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    Hi,

    For issue 2 the only thing you can do is use small bolts and tee nuts to join the two 20x60mm rails together, so they don't act independently.

    I am not sure about the witness cut. What are the details of the 3mm bit you are using for finishing?

    Ryan
     
  2. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    Hi all,

    I have the OX 750x1000mm. Running the NEMA 23, xPRO v3 and a 24v powersupply. (all bought from Oozenest). I have over the last ┬Ż year been adding stuff to the cnc like limitswitches, homing, dual belts, dustshoes etc. BUT I constantly keep running into issues with it not running as I want.

    Challenges I have (and have been having for a long time) :
    - When moving along the x-axis I hear/feel bumps. BUT only when its doing a job, I dont feel/see it when moving the axis by hand or when jogging it. Its regulary bumps, like a flat spot on one wheel, but I dont see/feel any, and if it was it should be there all the time ?
    - Chatter/shakes. When running a job with a feed of under around 800mm the machine (and spindle) shakes quite alot. Running between 1000-2500mm the machine runs alot better it seems.
    - It seems like as soon as the machine meet some resistance (like 1mm facing with a 1inch bit), it begins to run poorly/unreliable. I have tried to adjust the current/amp from 0.9 to 1.2 and I hope it helps.

    When I see other people making videos of their OX it runs butter smooth, how / what am I missing ?

    I have read these threads many times, alot of other forums/threads, and have tried whatever I could find that might help out.

    Thanks in advance
     
  3. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso Veteran
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    For the bumps, did it start after dual belting? what method of securing the bottom belt did you use? i'm thinking maybe the belts are not meshing well.
     
  4. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    Hi Gary. Its a long time since I did the dual belt, so yes it might have started at that time.
    For securing Im using the same methods as without dual belt (nut/bolt). If it was the belt not meshing wouldnt that occur when jogging the machine around too then ? It only does it when moving "freely/from spot to spot" in a job. Maybe I just dont see it when its actually cutting ?

    When I put the dual belts in, I just let slightly tightened the upper belt. If I tried to tension it, it would mesh right I felt. I tightened it by moving the motor upwards. How tight should the upper belt be ? THe lower is clued down.
     
  5. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso Veteran
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    The lower belt should be glued down, but with about 0.5mm in-between the belt and the v-slot extrusion, some use double sided tape of the right thickness, i used 0.5mm carbon fiber and glue, otherwise the wheels will not press the belts together well. maybe only when doing rapid movement it is an issue? the uper belt should not have tension end to end, just held down. but the loop going over the stepper pulley should be tight.
     
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  6. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    @Bjorn Mikkelsen Also for the juddery motion under 800mm/min, putting the board in fast decay mode would solve this issue. This is done using the solder jumpers on the back of the board.

    This is where it gets confusing, on some boards the silkscreen is incorrect, so when you are soldering for fast decay it could actually be slow decay. I think yours will have the correct screen, however if you put it into fast decay mode, but it gets more juddery, then it is the wrong way round, so you need to solder the other jumper pairs.

    Ryan
     
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  7. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    I already have soldered it to fast decay, but I didnt notice any difference. So you are saying I should try to solder the other pair instead ?
    Like if I have left and middle soldered I should solder mid+right and try that out ?
     
  8. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    Hmmm... I dont have anything under my lower belts, I thought the double tape was only to hold it down.
    Yes it seems like its only under rapid movements. So you are saying I NEED the 0.5mm extra thickness to make the belt mesh right ?
    And I dont have any tension end to end, just tightened using the motor.
     
    #818 Bjorn Mikkelsen, Sep 19, 2017 at 1:57 PM
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2017 at 2:19 PM
  9. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso Veteran
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    yes you need the extra thickness to make it mesh well, what glue did you use?
     
  10. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    Loctite :( So I have a bit of work infront of me. Do you have a link to what you used between the belt and the rail ?

    And thanks alot for the tip/info!
     
  11. Gary Caruso

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    you mean loctite CA glue? might peal right off.. might not, can always flip the extrusion ;)
     
  12. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    Yeah just tried at the end, seems to come of pretty easily. And of course, I could just flip the extrusion, why didnt I think of that! :D
     
  13. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    I think you could have one of the boards where it is printed wrong. So you need to solder the other pair as you have described.

    Ryan
     
  14. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    I will do this later today. Thanks for the tips, I will come back with the result :)
     
  15. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    I just checked and I have soldered for fast decay as shown on this picture CNC xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver

    That should be correct?
     
  16. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    Hi,

    So a batch has been printed incorrectly. You need to solder for slow decay, to get fast decay.

    Best Regards

    Ryan Lock
     
  17. Gary Caruso

    Gary Caruso Veteran
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    is there a picture of the correct graphic? is this one correct?
    upload_2017-9-24_8-43-13.png
     
  18. Ryan Lock

    Ryan Lock Master
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    It depends on what batch your board was in. But if you have bought within the last 2 months, you solder for slow to get fast decay mode.
     
  19. Gary Caruso

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    That pic i posted is from the spark website.
     
  20. Bjorn Mikkelsen

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    I bought mine 8 months ago. And it have the same print on the back as the one Gary posted.

    Im a bit confused, is it the print on the back that is printed the wrong way? If so then it should always be soldered the same way.

    Or is the printing the same but the components are switched around?
     

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