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iTopie RepRap

Discussion in '3D printers' started by skarab, Feb 12, 2015.

  1. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    skarab published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
  2. Tweakie

    Tweakie OpenBuilds Team
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    Brilliant work @skarab , a beautiful looking machine. :thumbsup:

    Tweakie.
     
  3. lucdepauw

    lucdepauw New
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    Hi, I'm interested to build the itopie, I've cloned the github archive and viewed the dxf files included. Only the top view is present, so I have no idea what the depth is for the pockets ? I'm viewing this in libreCAD. currently have no sketchup at hand on my ubuntu box.
    If you need help in the project feel free, as I was to achieve the same stuff just when I saw you project popping up at the openbuild site....
    I've got an original Felixprinter 3D (v1) (broken head, reason I want a prusa i3) and 2 CNC machines at hand (140 x 70 cm build area (nema23) and 60 x 40 cm (nema17)). The Felix and the smaller colinbus cnc were all build from kit.
     
  4. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    Machines making machines :thumbsup: Well done skarab, your builds always impress
     
  5. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    Thank you guys :)

    @lucdepauw thank you for the interest in the project, any help is gladly accepted.
    For the pockets : 6mm (for 16mm MDF) and 4mm for the "washer" milled on the Y idler (optional).

    Peace.
     
  6. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    That is so neat! I'm making this one! On my way to get some MDF :ROFL:

    Edit: I don't have a 3d printer. Can you supply the parts that you printed?
     
    #6 JustinTime, Feb 16, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2015
  7. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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  8. lucdepauw

    lucdepauw New
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    I'm redrawing the design to 15mm as 16mm is hard to find, will post the design when finished. Currently printing all the parts, question what extruder design did you use ? I'm using 1.75mm fillament so had my eyes on this one:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:127138
     
  9. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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  10. lucdepauw

    lucdepauw New
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  11. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    I too made it out of thicker plywood. I made it out of 3/4" plywood which is in reality 0.7" or about 17mm. Also, since I didn't have a 3d printer when I started, I made everything out of scraps of wood and held it together with wood glue and hot melt glue. LOL. Now that the printer is finished I printed the parts. I made it a bit bigger too since I have the plywood.
     
  12. Derick

    Derick New
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    Great build. I am new to all of this and have a few questions for you. I currently work in a university machine shop with access to a very large cnc plasma, some manual mills, and full welding setups and multiple 3d printers. We have a large amount of 1/4" steel that I can use to for personal projects and I was wanting to cut the frame out of that and weld it together. My question is how do I adjust the frame generator to properly and then export the appropriate .dxf files?
     
  13. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    @skarab What paint where you using for this and did you prim it first. The paint job came out really nice looking. :thumbsup:
     
  14. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    ****, too long time I did not come here. Sorry for the lack of responsiveness, many projects and not enough time.

    @Derick You must use the frame generator, everything is explained in the build manual, but feel free to ask me if something is not clear.

    @Mark Carew Yes i prim it first, MDF drinks a lot of paint. Then I sprayed two coat of paint and one or two layer of lacquer.

    BTW Thomas Sanladerer just released the first video of a mini series on building a 3D printer at home. Good thing the model presented is a iTopie :)



    Peace.
     
    Mark Carew likes this.
  15. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    skarab likes this.
  16. Luis Vallejo

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    I have noticed that the x end motor and x end idler dont have a hole where the m8 threaded rod goes... is this expected in the STL? Should we just drill the hole?
     
  17. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    As you want, if the rods are cut to the proper length, adjustment holes are unnecessary.
     
  18. Luis Vallejo

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    Hey Skarab,

    Thanks for your reply and awesome work with the iTopie.

    I meant the threaded rods the ones that go through the m8 nut. I believe you are referring to the smooth rods?

    Oh wait nevermind I just realized its quite thin, so it wont print.

    Cheers
    Luis.
     
    #18 Luis Vallejo, Jun 30, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2016
  19. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Luis, are you talking about the z axis m8 rods? They go through the parts you are talking about and they have holes in the spot where they go through. The holes are smaller than 8mm and when you thread the rod through them you create a nut which will ride up and down on the m8 rod. Works like a charm. I know since that is how I made it too.
     
  20. Luis Vallejo

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    Hey JustinTime thanks for your reply.

    Yes there is a hole but in the mesh (stl) doesn't go through all the way, but I checked the thickness and its less than what the printer can do so most likely will not print.

    as you can see in the image. When you threaded the rod through the plastic part do you used much force? In this image looks like the diameter of the hole is 8.5mm enough for the rod to go through unthreaded?

    Thanks for your assistance.
    Untitled picture.png
     
  21. skarab

    skarab Veteran
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    It is the support, otherwise the part will not print well, you should remove it with a knife.
     
  22. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Luis, it does look like the part needs drilling but I would not recommend doing it. I had redrawn all the parts before I printed them, to suit my changes/needs. I made the hole about 6.7mm. You don't need much force to drive the rod through the hole but you have to prepare a short piece of rod as a thread cutter. Just a short piece left over from cutting, if you had to cut. I clamped it in my cordless drill and used it on slow speed.
     

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