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BAFP 3D Printer

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Steven Bloom, Nov 24, 2015.

  1. Tim N

    Tim N Well-Known
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    2 new prints...

    Simple vase:

    First few layers have blobs since filament fan was turned off intentionally. Subsequent layers were fine...
    Also need to get rid of the Z-scars....

    Trying 2-color printing, ooze barrier was too close to the actual print that put artifacts on the object:


    After some clean up:



     
  2. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    steve and tim, are you using a heated bed?
    if so, what is the wattage of the heating pad, or element?
     
  3. Tim N

    Tim N Well-Known
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    Hi Val,

    Yes, we are using a heated bed. It is 110V AC @ 1200W rating.
     
  4. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    replace the glass and heater with pir foam. add a bit of a raft to your part prior to printing.
    sink the extruder about 1 mm into the foam and print.
    you will forget there's such thing as warping.
     
  5. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Val, how thick is the foam that you are using, if you are using the PIR foam? And, is it good for ABS? And if yes, does the ABS sticks to it but comes off with no problem once the printing is done?
     
  6. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    first thing first, credits go to the digital dentist for the tip:

    https://vimeo.com/66108108
    https://vimeo.com/66108107

    a few things about pir foam, or polyisocyanurate foam: one can usually buy it from building materials suppliers, comes in 4x8 sheets, sometimes 4x9. the usuall thicknesses are 1 inch and 1.5 inch. they come either foiled in paper (harder to peel off) or aluminum foil, easier to remove. price for a 4x8 sheet: around 20-25 bucks. bought mine from lowe's.
    i use 1 inch because i believe 1.5 to be a waste. the foam can be reused a few times, but since the majority of 3d printers are no bigger than 0.5x0.5 meters, one can cut many smaller sheets off a 4x8, so that's some of the best spent 20 bucks ever. besides, one can use the other foam face anytime.
    the foam can be used for pla, which is the material i used, but the digital dentist has successfully printed on abs. both materials stick to the foam like hell, as his video above shows. depending on the geometry of the printed part, you might wreck the foam while removing, but good thing a 4x8 sheet is plenty. also, leveling becomes kind of moot, seeing how the danger of the extruder hitting the printing surface is rendered null.
    regarding the printing itself: i tweaked the beginning code in slic3r to home x and y axes, then manually home z myself then, with the machine ready, i lower the extruder tip by no more than 2.5 mm into the foam and start printing. i use a 2 loop skirt to increase the contact surface of the printed part to the bed, but i recommend using a raft.

    try it, and experience the pleasure of not having to wait for the bed to heat up prior to printing.
     
    #126 Val Cocora, Jun 5, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  7. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    for some reason beyond my limited knowledge, i cannot seem to convince the machine to accept an all axis homing gcode, followed by the lowering of the extruder a few mm into the foam.
     
  8. JustinTime

    JustinTime Master
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    Why don't you set the home for the z axis 2.5mm lower than the top of the foam?

    BTW, I don't mind the waiting for the bed to heat up but I do mind the edges coming loose and curling up on, mostly, big prints.
     
  9. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    there was absolutely no warping on any of the parts i printed, big or small.
    print a larger part, you will understand why it won't warp when you remove it from the bed.
    i think i figured out the gcode part. it is very important how much one sinks the tip of the extruder into the foam.
     
  10. Tim N

    Tim N Well-Known
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    I don't have any warping/curling on my prints but have a thermal runaway whenever the filament fan is on at 100%. If I set it at 50% speed, no thermal runaway...maybe I need to isolate the fan wires away from the thermistor's wires.
     
  11. Val Cocora

    Val Cocora Veteran
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    I also keep the extruder fans on at 100 %, all the time during printing.
    didn't notice any problems, but that might be because we are using different kinds of extruders.
     
  12. Tim N

    Tim N Well-Known
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  13. John S

    John S Well-Known
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    I love this build, it looks amazing and well thought out!

    I might have missed it since I was reading this while very tired last night but What kind of electronics are you using? I am planning a production environment that will utilize at least 4 printers either side by side or stacked; That said would you thing two of these could be "stacked" by using longer pieces of 4040 for the corners and some sort of floor/wall brackets to minimize vibrations? Or do you think the jerk from the multiple units would degrade accuracy? I am reading what has to be every build on here now and definitely find the work you all put in to be nothing short of amazing.
     
  14. RichGold

    RichGold New
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    Where did you find a heating bed big enough for your build plate?
     
  15. tommaso

    tommaso New
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    Good afternoon.
    I am interested in building his 3D printer.
    With regard to the mechanics, the components that you described are sufficient? because I see that some components are missing such as the supports for the screw-nutscrew or like printer legs.
    I am Italian, and I apologize for the incorrect English.
    thank you very much for the help. If possible, how can I get these missing components?
    regards:)
     
  16. Simon Polz

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    Looks like a cartesian style printer to me. It is definitely not a CoreXY mechanism.
     
  17. Ozfunghi

    Ozfunghi New
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    So... any more large prints made with this behemoth? I'm very interested to see more. I'm also looking for a large printer (500*500*700) or something along those lines and this looks promising. Is the stationary bed a plus compared to C-bots, with beds of that size (500 to 600 mm)? Or at least as a trade off for a printhead that also moves upwards, as well as forward and back, and side to side.

    When will this project be "finalized" so people can start building this?
     

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