BeTrue3D Printer

Enter the BeTrue3D Printer
The right side is depicted as clear in order to see the insides. You can spot the electronics to the rear right and the small hole in the flooring for Z-endstop at max. I'm going to use this initially untill I set up the BLTouch sensor near my hotend.
The "rods" around the top are "idler posts" for the CoreXY mechanics.



You can view the printer in 3D at Autodesk's site: http://a360.co/2k606Zz - This is always going to show the actual state of the project.
When I finish the project I make the parts downloadable for everyone in all fileformats.

Status and short updates
20. january 2017: I noticed that the entire BOM secion has been cleared. I don't know why, but am trying to learn the cause.
Before I start spending an hour filling everything in again, I'm posting in here.
Here is an overview of the 2020 extrusions and rods I've ordered. There are a lot of extrusions due to the "double-compartment" I've used in order to use panelling for sides, rear compartment and bottom.

19. january 2017: I moved the Status and updates section up here.

• Allmost all parts ordered from Robotdigg and Motedis.
• Heated bed will be bought from clever3d.de and be a PEI coated black 5mm thick aluminum plate with writing lasered on it.
• I created an "Electronics compartment" section here.
• I found the Duet WiFi controller on GrabCad and used that one to make the Duex5 expansionboard.
• I've then inserted the controllers
• Worked on making panels for the printer.
• Cutouts for various ports and screws.
• Bottom Z-endstop, similar to Ultimaker 2 setup.

Electronics compartment
I've made space in the back of the printer for the Duet WiFi and Duex5 boards, and made cutouts for the ports for Duet WiFi in the side panel.


Before 19. january 2017:
I have the Duet WiFi controller and the Duex5 expansions board in hand, and begun writing on my blog about it. When I'm done I'll put it all together to an Instructable on and put it with my other instructables.


The main components for the case is going to come from robotdigg but I havn't recieed anything from them yet. You can see higher quality rendere images on my facebook page, where I'm posting short news about this and other 3D related projects.

What name is BeTrue3d Printer?
Well, the name is actually an abbreviation of "Belted Extruder" which comes from Extruders I designed and shared on thingiverser. I started selling metal (vitamin) parts for them, as it was, in some cases, rather expensive for users to source just one. I needed to find a fitting name, and BeTrue3D seemed both fitting and nice at the same time

Metal vs printed parts?
When the very nice Ultimaker 2 extrusion first saw the light of day I made my own version of it.. it was a great learning proeject. What I learned most though, was that printed parts was very hard to get 100% accurate, and when you did, you needed to have spares on hand for accidents and just for plain old wear and tear.

So, I decided to go all metal. It IS going to increase price some. At least if you can make your own printed parts, but I believe it doesn't matter considering the other high quality (and high price) parts in this project.

16mm rods?! Wow, that's thick, why?
Sure it is, but I hope that 4x 16mm rods for Z can make it possible not to use very long flanged bearings but still prevent any wobble you might get using thinner rods and short (not-long) bearings.
I'm doing this in an effort to both provide a stable Z-axis but also to optimize the active part of the axis.

XY Space constraints, why not make it huge?
Well, I do recognize that many people seem to go for 30x30x50 or something similar, but I really don't ever print anything that can't fit on my Ultimaker 2 bed (21cm x 22cm ish), and I really don't want a huge machine I'm not using fully.
Active printable area using Diamond hotend 22cm x 25cm - a bit larger using normal hotend.
Outer dimensions are 499mm x 418mm x 405mm
This is a huge % active build area considering the rods and sliders used.
These measuremts should stick.


Powersupply. Wow, isn't 24v 20amp overpowered?
Yes! it is.
Now some of you might think: isn't it underpowered if you have a powerfull bed?
Yes, it would be at that as well, but i'm going to run my heated bed using a Quality DC-AC Solid State Releay. I have a 500w Siliconeheater from Kenovoo for this


I went looking for a quality 24V Powersupply, and found this very nice Mean Well SP-480-24 at a favorable price. It's high quality and I have disconnected the 2 large rear fans, as It can be passively cooled just fine, considering the 2-3amps I'll draw from it

The Specs are attached as a file "SP-480-SPEC.PDF"
The render below is result of my modelling the PSU in Autodesk Fusion 360 in ordere to fit it into my model of the BeTrue3D Printer